oil filter

Greenbush said:
After taking out the sump filter to fix some seepage around the plate, I noticed the pushed in screen area you some of you guys were talking about. Now, I live in Sunny Los Angeles, can't imagine what damage colder area cold starts do to screens if it happens here in this warm climate.
So, decided to make a shield, kinda like some posted on here. Now, the final is a but smoother around the edges. It's aluminum flashing material for home heating vents.

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I've been selling one for a couple of years now that wraps a little farther around and bolts on using the original bolts. I guess great minds think alike. :bike: http://usedservicemanuals.blogspot.com/2012/02/xs650-yamaha-sump-filter-shields.html
 
Yes I usually go magnet to magnet. I tend to MIG em on but the technique continues to change each time I do one. A one gallon metal can makes great shield stock. A utility knife and straight edge cut it nice and clean.

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You guys forget that the paper filter unit already has a built-in safety valve!! So there is no need of an extra safety valve!:thumbsup:

Hein
 
At the back side of the paper filter element you can find the valve. You can test it by pushing it in with a finger.
 
Ok, not sure I got this down so bear with me. The filter on the right side case is a reusable screen-right? The filter in the sump is a reuseable filter as well, but sometimes suffers damage from a oil jet. From reading this it seems everyone is fitting a baffle on that corner. Don't want to order parts unless I have too.
 
Rsteen, you have it pretty close. The sump filter gets damaged from the suction created by the oil pump. No oil jet. When you first start the engine the oil is cold and doesn't flow well. The weakest parts of the sump filter screen is right by the oil pump inlet. When you rev the engine very much just after start up this thick cold oil tears out this weak spot in the screen.
I have one of dogbunny's temp dip sticks. I let the bike idle until the temp reads about 100 degrees or more before I ride off. Even at that I keep the rpms below 3000 rpms for a few miles. Checking the temp. Once it reaches about 150 I ride as hard as I want. The oil is plenty warm by then.
This will prolong the life of the filter.
I have several sump filters and sump plates. When I change the oil I just swap a clean filter already mounted on a sump plate for the dirty one.
I also have several side cover filters too. I do the same with these. Pop in a clean one.
This lets me do an oil change quickly. I then clean the filters and have them ready for the next oil change.
I have patched my sump filters where they tore with JB Weld. Once patched they don't tear more.
I don't really see a need for the shield, maybe it will help prevent a new filter from tearing.
Leo
 
Great, then I will get a gasket for the sump and take it apart and see what it looks like.
 
kenbel said:
I,ve read that a lot of blokes in the US have been having problems with Mikes Keihin PW 32 carbys, I have found the opposite they are just great, but I do have a well opened two into one exhaust and the sound is ball tearing
Click to expand...

And you telling us this in the oil filter thread why exactly?
 
I agree that a carb post being in an oil filter thread isn't the best way.
Any way I might add that some of the PWK kits have worked ok for some. Not many but some. Others have had tons of trouble.
I think this is mostly from a lack of quality control. If a few good ones get threw then they all should be good ones. Don't let the crappy ones out the door. Leads to bad press.
Leo
 
Very interesting thread I enjoyed the earlier battle, must say I agree and do like Mr. Weijers filter system but I do think he started it with Pamcopete by being a little condescending at the start, with Mr.Pete reacting.

Anyhow given I am changing oils at 1000 miles of any bike such age, is there any need to upgrade either of the filters? I'd rather not touch the side filter as I don't want to detract from the looks on the right crank cover.

I'm having difficulty finding a diagram that shows how the main filter at the sump works in the oil system or does it just independently filter the oil in the sump?

My concern about Mr Weijers Paper filter setup is the possibility that the paper filter tears? In a worst case scenario I'm imagining sharp bits of metal shards tearing the paper filter, the original was a metal gauze type after all.
 

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