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Oil leak - bottom of enginer

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Port, May 1, 2019.

  1. Port

    Port XS650 Enthusiast

    I recently got my bike running and i have since noticed another slight oil leak when i park it. I get a couple of drops on the ground as soon as i park it but not much after that. I need to replace the crush washers and want to cover as many of these possible causes as i can while i have the bike drained so i dont have to drain it again. Im going to give it a good cleaning and check under the left enginer cover for other possible leaks before doing this.


    (blue) Can i pull the the cover of the starter assembly off and replace the gasket without messing with anything behind it? This schematic makes me think there is an oil seal behind the cover but i can find much on how it goes together.

    (red) What is the stud with the nut? Can i remove it without mesing up whatever it's holding? Can/should i replace that washer with a copper ? Should i just loosen and retorque it? do you have a torque spec?

    (green) What are these two nuts holding? Can i remove them without mesing up whatever they're holding? Can/should i replace the crush washers? Should i just loosen and retorque them? do you have a torque spec?
    Jim likes this.
  2. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    When you ride, the airflow blows the oil all over the place. there's no way to tell what's leaking after a ride. Your best bet is to clean it good... real good. Pull the left engine cover and clean in there. There's a better than even chance the leak(s) coming from the seal behind the front sprocket or the clutch actuator rod seal.
    Let it idle and see whats leaking... then go from there. might even have to take short, slow rides... stopping every few minutes to have a look. Do NOT run it with the left cover off. the clutch actuator will push itself out and oil will go everywhere.
    Everything you circled can, and should be retorqued. There's a good chance that will fix the leak(s). Look in the Tech section and you'll find the shop manuals with the torque specs.
    gggGary, Port, WBacon and 2 others like this.
  3. TwoManyXS1Bs

    TwoManyXS1Bs BBQ Hunter Top Contributor

    Do a forum search on "oil talcum"...
    gggGary, Port, peanut and 1 other person like this.
  4. peanut

    peanut XS650 enthusiast & inveterate tinkerer XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    I never cease to be impressed with the great advice, quick response and level of expertise that there is on this forum ... we are so fortunate :thumbsup:
  5. Port

    Port XS650 Enthusiast

    Sounds good, ill report back what i find

    I'll probably give this a try if i dontquickly find the issue. how is the clean up of the oily talc?

    So true! Id be lost without this site

    I'm still curios about my specific questions regarding the red, green and blue marks
    TwoManyXS1Bs, gggGary and Jim like this.
  6. Jim

    Jim Beyond the edge, is the unknown. Here be Dragons XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Yes, you can remove the cover. Although, re-torquing has a good chance of fixing it without replacing the gasket. See if it's leaking first.
    A through stud from the top case half.
    No need to. No oil there to seal against.
    You can. Won't help your leaks though.
    No, You'll have to look it up.
    Upper case studs.
    I'd see if they're leaking first.
    See previous.
    See previous.
    Phew..... next time number your questions for easier responses. :rolleyes:
    Port, TwoManyXS1Bs, gggGary and 2 others like this.
  7. peanut

    peanut XS650 enthusiast & inveterate tinkerer XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    TwoManyXS1Bs and Jim like this.
  8. gggGary

    gggGary Stop that! XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Check the top bolt on the starter cover it also holds the shift shaft gaurd and is often removed when working on a rare charging system issue.
    peanut, TwoManyXS1Bs and Jim like this.
  9. XSLeo

    XSLeo XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    From looking at your picture there are two highly probable spots for the leak. Both easy to fix. Don't even need to drain the oil.
    #1 is the clutch push rod seal.
    #2 is the drive sprocket torque.
    First pull the left engine cover. The clutch push rod stick out just in front of the drive chain front sprocket. Try wiggling it around. Does it move much? If so the seal is probably bad, the bushing behind it could be worn enough to damage a new seal. Best to change both.
    On the Front drive chain the shaft out of the tranny runs through a bushing. The seal rides on this bushing. The sprocket pushes this bushing tight in against the inner race of the bearing on the shaft. When the nut on the sprocket loosens up oil can seep in between the busing and bearing race and come out between the bushing and sprocket.
    Behind the nut is a thin washer with one edge bent up to lock the nut in place. Bend this edge back enough to see how tight the nut is. Often found barely finger tight. If loose tighten it up.
    My 74-77 Factory manual quotes the torque needs to be 72.3 to 86.8 ft.lbs. of torque.
    I would try the tighten the sprocket nut first. You can do this while you are waiting for the parts to come in for the push rod. When ordering you should get two or three seals. That way if you mess up you have spares handy. Not hard to mess up on the seal. Important to get all burrs around the hole the seal goes into. Get a bit of taper in the hole. This help the seal slide in without cutting the edge.
    One bushing is enough. It's easy to remove. Mike's has a good "How Too" on that task. When I do the seal I use a Phillips head screw driver and a fender washer. Slip the washer on the screwdriver then oil thing up good and slip the seal on the screwdriver. Now slip the screwdriver into the shaft where the bushing goes. with a bit of sealer on the outside of seal to act as a lube and help seal it in place, just push the seal in with the screwdriver,
    The fender washer should be large enough on the outside diameter to be larger than the seal. It will act as a stop when it hits the case. Now that the seals in place, put it back together.
    These two things will probably fix your oil problem. if not then you can start on the things that require more effort.

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