On the road again at 40.............the bike that is..........PART DEUX

[robinc]

Well, what I did is use a 'Good' respirator mask, a fan to blow away any fumes and evacuated the area immediately after use.

Considered hooking up a vacuum of some sort but figured it would pull in too much particulate and ruin the paint as Wannabridin mentioned.
Fingers crossed.

 

[robinc]

This is why I like to use tractor and Tractor and Implement paint with a brush.

I'm curious wannabridin. Do you have any info on the product you used? Thanks.

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

Of course, you run the risk outside of a bug crashing the spray party.
I keep some fine tweezers handy in my pocket, and like with the case of my '76 SprayMax clearcoat job (got 2 bugs), I quickly tweezered them off, and the clearcoat settled rather nicely. I did buff that job, 2 days later.

 

[robinc]

Good advice 'Dude, thanks.
I did find that product has really nice self levelling properties. Too bad it's so nasty.

 

[Jim]

Fantastic Robin!!
If I'm rattle canning on cold days (or any day for that matter) I try to spray outside, then bake the paint in the oven at 180deg. for about an hour. Make sure the wife is at work before you do it though or you'll never hear the end of it
Again, that turned out great!

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

Well, what I did is use a 'Good' respirator mask, a fan to blow away any fumes and evacuated the area immediately after use.

Considered hooking up a vacuum of some sort but figured it would pull in too much particulate and ruin the paint as Wannabridin mentioned.
Fingers crossed.

I'm sure that you are going to be fine, Robin.
Your use of the product was minimal.
In fact, the NAPA bodyshop products guy sold me just a $20 "good" carbon mask for the small job I was doing. "Always buy a new one for each paint job", he said, though.

 

[MaxPete]

Really nice job on the gauge housings Robin!

 

[robinc]

Thanks Jim. Sadly that would never fly for me. I swear she's got a nose so sensitive it could be used for scientific research.

Anytime I sneak a part into the basement to cure overnight a few hours after it's been painted I just wait for it.

"What's that smell? Have you been painting again?"

 

[robinc]

Thanks 'Dude, I'm not too worried and hey, if not, we're going down to a good cause!

 

[robinc]

Thanks Pete, appreciate it.

 

[wannabridin]

I'm curious wannabridin. Do you have any info on the product you used? Thanks.

This is the stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4432-10-Deere-Tractor-Implement/dp/B000I1ASPS?th=1 but you've to make sure you get the hardener and mix it properly: https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/dp/B000LNY1MY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510335261&sr=1-1&keywords=valspar+enamel+hardener&dpID=41%2BcMN3stNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch. I used foam brushes (you can buy a very large bag on Amazon with various sizes for cheap. I'm sure there are better options for brushes, but this worked well.

The advantage here is that the nasty organic compounds are not aerosolized, so you don't have nearly as much risk inhaling them.

I'm sure that you are going to be fine, Robin.
Your use of the product was minimal.
In fact, the NAPA bodyshop products guy sold me just a $20 "good" carbon mask for the small job I was doing. "Always buy a new one for each paint job", he said, though.

The carbon filter media does nothing to absorb or block the isocyanates. The BEST way to minimize risk is to simply avoid them. The only way to safely avoid them is to use a GOOD positive pressure respirator and be upwind of the media (outdoors with a small breeze, paint booth with a cross or down draft, etc.). At my last job, I was the corporate safety officer and dealt with hazardous metal powder (10 - 45 micron sized aluminum, titanium, etc.) which was a major health concern (could be readily absorbed through the skin, nasty nasty nasty in inhaled, explosive, flammable, etc.) and the only way I would allow anyone to use our powders was to wear a PAPR (https://www.amazon.com/3M-Versaflo-Heavy-Industry-TR-300-HIK/dp/B007PB4C38) system.

I used to use the PAPR if spraying ANY kind of paint, especially 2-part ones, as it was a good habit to be in, and I don't like the smell of spray paint much. Dang company made me return the respirator when I left the company, even though I had 18 months of use with it and had Lord knows how many "cooties" in it that couldn't be washed off. I was quite upset that it would just sit on a shelf unused...

Some good literature on the dangers of these paints: http://www.safetyandhealthmagazine....in-the-workplace-exposure-effects-and-control

 

[robinc]

Great information, thank you wannabridin.

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

This is the stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4432-10-Deere-Tractor-Implement/dp/B000I1ASPS?th=1 but you've to make sure you get the hardener and mix it properly: https://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/dp/B000LNY1MY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510335261&sr=1-1&keywords=valspar+enamel+hardener&dpID=41%2BcMN3stNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch. I used foam brushes (you can buy a very large bag on Amazon with various sizes for cheap. I'm sure there are better options for brushes, but this worked well.

The advantage here is that the nasty organic compounds are not aerosolized, so you don't have nearly as much risk inhaling them.



The carbon filter media does nothing to absorb or block the isocyanates. The BEST way to minimize risk is to simply avoid them. The only way to safely avoid them is to use a GOOD positive pressure respirator and be upwind of the media (outdoors with a small breeze, paint booth with a cross or down draft, etc.). At my last job, I was the corporate safety officer and dealt with hazardous metal powder (10 - 45 micron sized aluminum, titanium, etc.) which was a major health concern (could be readily absorbed through the skin, nasty nasty nasty in inhaled, explosive, flammable, etc.) and the only way I would allow anyone to use our powders was to wear a PAPR (https://www.amazon.com/3M-Versaflo-Heavy-Industry-TR-300-HIK/dp/B007PB4C38) system.

I used to use the PAPR if spraying ANY kind of paint, especially 2-part ones, as it was a good habit to be in, and I don't like the smell of spray paint much. Dang company made me return the respirator when I left the company, even though I had 18 months of use with it and had Lord knows how many "cooties" in it that couldn't be washed off. I was quite upset that it would just sit on a shelf unused...

Some good literature on the dangers of these paints: http://www.safetyandhealthmagazine....in-the-workplace-exposure-effects-and-control

OK, we've discussed this mask issue quite a bit, but I did some searching on autobody professional forums, and this question of why a place like NAPA would sell a carbon mask like the 3M 07192 (sold to me for use with the SprayMax, $18)

and this is one of the responses offered to that question:

"your question has been asked several times before and it has triggered hours of heated debate. The bottom line to that debate (from my perspective) is that charcoal cannister painters masks ARE 100% effective in blocking out isocyanates will protect the lungs etc when spraying iso hardened paints WHEN THE MASKS ARE USED PROPERLY. The reason the charcoal cannister manufacturing companies don't recommend their masks for iso based paints is to cover their asses because their masks are not IDIOT PROOF. If the masks are not used properly either through intentional misuse or out of ignorance in how to properly use the masks that can lead to iso exposure by the idiot painter."

 

[robinc]

Good update. Thanks 'Dude.

 

[Mailman]

I did paint and body work in the late 70's and early 80's for a trucking company. THE paint back in those days was the brand Imron. It was an acrylic enamel that you mixed in a catylist hardner with. The catylist had isocynates in it. I must've done a hundred paint jobs with that paint wearing a mask like the one pictured above. I did not have a paint booth, I just painted in one of eight open bays in a truck garage, eight bays with roll up doors on both sides of the building, in other words you would expect plenty of ventilation. On one occasion however a young mechanic wound up going to the hospital the night after I painted a truck at work. He had severe respiratory distress, they released him and he relapsed and had to go back to the hospital. The paint was blamed. I know OSHA has taken a harder stand on that product, but I agree with proper precautions, in my opinion it can be used safely.
Just take it seriously, and I personally would not use it without a good 3 stage respirator. They are not that expensive.
I think it's a very good product, just be smart about its use, as Dude has said all along.

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

I did paint and body work in the late 70's and early 80's for a trucking company. THE paint back in those days was the brand Imron. It was an acrylic enamel that you mixed in a catylist hardner with. The catylist had isocynates in it. I must've done a hundred paint jobs with that paint wearing a mask like the one pictured above. I did not have a paint booth, I just painted in one of eight open bays in a truck garage, eight bays with roll up doors on both sides of the building, in other words you would expect plenty of ventilation. On one occasion however a young mechanic wound up going to the hospital the night after I painted a truck at work. He had severe respiratory distress, they released him and he relapsed and had to go back to the hospital. The paint was blamed. I know OSHA has taken a harder stand on that product, but I agree with proper precautions, in my opinion it can be used safely.
Just take it seriously, and I personally would not use it without a good 3 stage respirator. They are not that expensive.
I think it's a very good product, just be smart about its use, as Dude has said all along.

I remember Imron ! And I used Dupont Centari acrylic enamel a good deal. In fact, I still have some tins of the stuff. Why ? .....I can't seem to get of stuff.

 

[Jim]

....THE paint back in those days was the brand Imron. It was an acrylic enamel that you mixed in a catylist hardner with.

Like Bob, I painted with Imron back in the early-mid seventies. Airplanes, helicopters, cars, bikes...

....an acrylic enamel

Actually it was (is) a polyurethane...(dig deep Bob) and a nasty one. Lot's of paint booths back then banned it, wouldn't let you spray it. It was (is) some seriously nasty shit.
One place I worked at gave us dust masks to shoot it with. After my first payday, I went out and bought my own respirator. It's a wonder I can still breathe...

 

[Mailman]

Jim54 said:
"Actually it was (is) a polyurethane...(dig deep Bob)"

Huh? What? Sorry man, I was hallucinating , isocynates fried my brain. Lol!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

It's amazing what we share in common.

Mid '80s, shot my hotrod with this.



Used my 2-car garage. Propped up the door with a pair of box fans, blowing out. Fresh air would come in over the door top. First time using this stuff, it uses fairly high pressure at the gun (45psi I recall), and needed to practice first, so shot the engine bay with the gloss black. Was also concerned about bugs, had to shoot in the evenings, bugs attracted to the lights. Worry about that later.

Went out there the next day, and saw something I'd never seen before. Thousands of dead bugs covering the floor. Bug problem solved.

For the next dozen years, never had a bug problem out there.

Painter friend of mine told me that they pulled, or reformulated, Imron somewhere in the late '80s, or 1990. Removed the cyano. Water-based paints started replacing everything. Wasn't the same after that...

 

[MaxPete]

I’m not a paint expert but as far as I’m aware nearly all large OEM assembly plants use water-borne paint these days. It work fine in combo with the electro-attractive coating technologies they also employ.