SOS/Brillo pads work great at this stage.
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On the road again at 40.............the bike that is..........PART DEUX
- Thread starter robinc
- Start date
OK, you mention the wet/dry paper, but how did you use it, wet or dry? I find dry to be more aggressive. I usually do the 320 dry then the 400 and finer grits wet. I don't do as much sanding as I used to since I switched to the Roloc discs but unfortunately, you can't access all parts of the rims with them, especially the centers. Sanding is still needed. But on easier to access parts like fork legs, side covers, etc., they eliminate virtually all the sanding. I finally found a listing of how the disc grits relate to sand paper grits. It pretty much verified what I had found by using them .....
I start with the blue (very fine) and finish with the gray (super fine), occasionally carefully using a maroon (medium) for deep scratch and gouge removal. Then I can move right on to buffing.
I start with the blue (very fine) and finish with the gray (super fine), occasionally carefully using a maroon (medium) for deep scratch and gouge removal. Then I can move right on to buffing.
Sorry 5twins. I used all the wet/dry papers wet. Just kept rinsing them off and soaking them in water.
Yes they are more aggressive dry but I find they last longer wet. You know how much sandpaper costs these days? Lol.
Thanks for the info on the Roloc disks. I picked up a couple assorted packs awhile ago but haven't tried them yet.
Yes they are more aggressive dry but I find they last longer wet. You know how much sandpaper costs these days? Lol.
Thanks for the info on the Roloc disks. I picked up a couple assorted packs awhile ago but haven't tried them yet.
3" sanding, 3" scotchbrite, 2" scotchbrite.... and 1.5" scotchbrite. You'd be amazed at how tight a spot you can get into with a 1.5" disc on a 90deg die grinder.
There's also many different types of holders. Make sure you get the right discs for your holder.
I have 1" and 2" discs and holders. With the 1", I can get partially into the rim centers, but not everywhere. Also, the 1" gray (super fine) discs are hard to find. My research revealed they are a special order item with a 200 disc minimum. I finally located some smaller packs on eBay. I also recently got some of these bristle discs. They're nylon bristles impregnated with grit. I'm hoping they'll work well around the spoke holes .....
The packs I picked up came with a holder Jim but I haven't even opened one yet to see what's in there.
I have a 90* die grinder as well as a couple others so good to go there.
I like those nylon bristles 5twins. Interested to hear how they work for you.
I have a 90* die grinder as well as a couple others so good to go there.
I like those nylon bristles 5twins. Interested to hear how they work for you.
....and yet another useful tool for corrosion removal/polishing in tight places.
Notch a 1/4" steel rod (or bolt) and chuck it up in a die grinder. It will get into very tight spots. I use red pads for corrosion removal and green and white ones for polishing. Replace the scotchbrite with cotton cloth and rubbing compound for final polish. Also makes an excellent multi-sized cylinder hone.
Notch a 1/4" steel rod (or bolt) and chuck it up in a die grinder. It will get into very tight spots. I use red pads for corrosion removal and green and white ones for polishing. Replace the scotchbrite with cotton cloth and rubbing compound for final polish. Also makes an excellent multi-sized cylinder hone.
I've been gluing scotchbrite sections onto rods for years for honing purposes (fairly effective, but frustrating) , and never thought of notching a rod like you have.
Great idea.
Rob, polished parts look great. What brand or where did you get your dry polishing compounds? I'm mostly interested in the black compound that you liked so much. I'm still using wet compounds, haven't found any dry compounds to rave about yet.
Scott
Scott
Thanks Scott!
Except for the green honing compound, I am just using what I can get at Princess Auto which is the Canadian 'baby' Harbor Freight.
You can probably get the same things there. I think 5twins buys the larger bars on ebay.
The green compound I get at Lee Valley Tools. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32984&cat=1,43072
We're lucky to have a store in town. They have an online ordering system.
I used to use it to hone chisels on a leather strop. Scary Sharp mirror finish. You might find it handy in your work as a luthier.
Except for the green honing compound, I am just using what I can get at Princess Auto which is the Canadian 'baby' Harbor Freight.
You can probably get the same things there. I think 5twins buys the larger bars on ebay.
The green compound I get at Lee Valley Tools. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32984&cat=1,43072
We're lucky to have a store in town. They have an online ordering system.
I used to use it to hone chisels on a leather strop. Scary Sharp mirror finish. You might find it handy in your work as a luthier.
Thanks Rob, I do the Scary Sharp thing. My strop is the back side of a piece of linoleum.
Scott
Scott
Actually, I got most of my buffing bars from McMaster-Carr. They have giant 3 lb. bars for about the same cost as most other places charge for the smaller ones. I have black, brown, and white. I use the black most, brown occasionally, white (high polish) very seldom. To get you started, you might want to try a kit of assorted smaller bars like this .....
https://www.amazon.com/Enkay-150-Po...rd_wg=xqfUd&psc=1&refRID=KXNDCY0XDKR0Z1TGVVST
McMaster-Carr no longer lists the black bars, only gray ones. I'm thinking they are probably the same thing, or an equivalent replacement .....
https://www.mcmaster.com/#buffing-bars/=1b9ecw1
https://www.amazon.com/Enkay-150-Po...rd_wg=xqfUd&psc=1&refRID=KXNDCY0XDKR0Z1TGVVST
McMaster-Carr no longer lists the black bars, only gray ones. I'm thinking they are probably the same thing, or an equivalent replacement .....
https://www.mcmaster.com/#buffing-bars/=1b9ecw1
Wow been quite awhile since I did any updates here on Black Betty's progress.
Been whiling away the Sprinter days cleaning and repainting some bits and pieces.
Rotor repainted.
M/C repainted (thought I had already ordered the M/C banjo bolt cover, waiting on it so I can then install new Banggood brake line and bleed brakes)
Chainguard blasted and painted.
Foot pegs painted.
Currently working on cleaning and detailing her engine in the frame. Man, my other one was a whole lot easier on the bench!
Been whiling away the Sprinter days cleaning and repainting some bits and pieces.
Rotor repainted.
M/C repainted (thought I had already ordered the M/C banjo bolt cover, waiting on it so I can then install new Banggood brake line and bleed brakes)
Chainguard blasted and painted.
Foot pegs painted.
Currently working on cleaning and detailing her engine in the frame. Man, my other one was a whole lot easier on the bench!
Very pretty Robin!
Very nice Robin! That’s gonna be one shiny motor sickle!
Thanks Pete and Bob. We're getting there.
Lookin' good!! The black chain guard actually looks a lot better than I figured it would.
That front wheel shot could hang on a wall somewhere if you put a white vignette around it.
That front wheel shot could hang on a wall somewhere if you put a white vignette around it.
Lol, thanks Jim you're too kind. Ya, I didn't know how it would turn out but ok for a chain guard.
I love this VHT paint. Builds nice, almost like a gloss powder coat. Gotta love rattle cans, no gun cleaning involved!
I love this VHT paint. Builds nice, almost like a gloss powder coat. Gotta love rattle cans, no gun cleaning involved!
