Check your local auto parts stores too. The stuff I have I got years ago at one of my local parts stores. They had it just sitting on the shelf. I didn't even realize it was a dual compound container at first, coarse and fine both .....

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Thanks 5twins. Might be finished work a little early tomorrow so will do some checking around.
 
Well, being self employed can have it's advantages like today, “ I need to leave a little early to take care of an important matter.”

Now this gets funny. Must be a lot of top end jobs going on in town. Two Auto Parts stores sold out of Valve lapping compound, Canadian Tire doesn't even carry it any more gggGary….lol.

Really? Canadian Tire, “Canada’s Auto Parts Store” doesn't sell lapping compound.

Boy this is like trying to find a BP7ES in this city. Which reminds me, I think a “Spark Plug Rant” was my first post on this site….lol.

Found some Permatex once I made my way to Napa, and it felt a little course. Their TDS says it: ‘Combines special grits of various sizes that become finer as the compound is worked’. Ok.
I'm sure it would be just fine.

Now, I'm going to exercise some self control on this job and not allow my usual A/R behavior to present itself by going to 400, 600, and 1000 grits as I normally would. But, I do like 5twins idea of finishing up with a fine 280 polish. That will satisfy my inner self.

Did a little more eBaying and found a seller who's sending one of those that 5twins linked to for half of the above prices. Good enough. Now we're just waiting on the Mailman.
 
Yes, I've had mine for a very long time, 20 years at least. It even came in a metal can. I see the new offering is in a plastic container but it appears to be the same stuff, same part number and all. You will now have literally a lifetime supply, lol. I've barely put a dent in mine yet and I've lost count of how many valves I've done. You only put a few dabs around the seating face of the valve and it usually only takes a couple or 3 applications before the pits are gone. Then one or two applications of the fine compound give the nicer final finish.

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Nice, thanks 5twins, and thanks for the pic. A lifetime supply is good. I know myself. The first time doing a new to me job is the hardest, then I will be looking for more candidates! Lol. Got my new valve spring compressors today. I love buying tools!
 
Personally I bypassed valve lapping. I began to think of it as an essential step after grinding, like honing is an essential step after boring. Maybe not so necessary or even advisable otherwise. If you do lap the valves look at the spec and notice that there's supposed to be only a very narrow contact band, the idea I think being to minimize the chance of something getting between and keeping the valve from seating
 
Man Robin, watching all this is giving me the itch to start collecting tools and supplies to start my own rebuild.
Sigh...someday.
So do you have a plan yet regarding piston, rings, and cylinders? Are you just going to wait until you get in there and take a look see? I guess I'm wondering if the plan is to hone the cylinders and go with new rings. I know your bike had good compression , but I also know you're pulling the jugs to replace timing chains and all new gaskets.
Is that right? Or was I not paying attention. Haha!
 
If you do lap the valves look at the spec and notice that there's supposed to be only a very narrow contact band, the idea I think being to minimize the chance of something getting between and keeping the valve from seating

OK xjwmx, that's good to know and makes sense. I will look at manual specs. Thanks for the heads up.
 
What you need to replace all depends on what you find once you get inside. If the bores aren't badly worn, usually just new rings do the trick. If they are worn beyond spec then that calls for an over-bore. We're lucky now that Crusinimage came along. You can get nice cheap ring sets and piston sets too.
 
Ya, come on Bob, join the party.

My plan is exactly as you say:
wait until you get in there and take a look see?

Yes compression is good, but looking through plug holes I can see carboned/oil fouled piston heads. I don't know what to look for but will take lots of pics and seek advice when I get there. Yes you're right, you're paying attention....lol.
Trying to track down a cylinder bore gauge, but maybe overthinking it. Guess we'll see when we get in there.
 
Robin: yup, you really cannot pre-buy rings as it depends on what you find in there. Also, I think I may have an inside mic big enough. Can I trade you for a little blob of that valve lapping compound?

Pete
 
Hey Pete, shipped today, don't know yet when it will get here, but no problem lots to go around. I am trying to find my inside mic (can't believe I'd misplace a tool) but if I can track down a decently priced even used bore gauge, hey another tool!
 
A compression test isn't a tell-all and can be misleading. Yours read very good yet your cylinders seem to be full of oil. You may have heard that if you get a low reading, add a spoonful of oil to the cylinder. If the reading comes up, your rings are bad, no change means bad valves. The added oil seals around the rings and gives you a higher reading. That's what could be happening with yours. The oil leaking past the rings is sealing them during the compression test and giving you a false high reading.

One of the worse engines I ever tore down gave good compression readings. Once torn down, the one cylinder was a mess and full of oil. Even though the compression test was good, this motor would foul the plugs out after 10 or 20 miles of riding. We knew something was wrong inside but the compression test didn't tell us that.
 
The oil leaking past the rings is sealing them during the compression test and giving you a false high reading.

That is a good point 5twins. I hadn't considered that.
Yes, I have read to add a spoonful of oil and never bothered as my results were always good. Maybe I've got a self oiler....lol. Guess we'll find out soon.

But, if you really want to get knee-deep:

Thanks for all the homework 2M....I think.....lol. Seriously, I do appreciate it. Funny I was reading that cylinder bore gauge thread by DogBunnny yesterday. Found a used #6460 kit like 5twins on eBay for $78 USD. Was waiting to see if you guys might have anything to say about it before I pulled that trigger. While it may? be the only time I would use it, (probably not), I never look at a tool as an expense but rather as an investment as they normally more than pay for them selves the first time you use them.

But for now you're right, I can take these to my machinist and hope he moves a little quicker than he has on the carbs that have been sitting there for a couple months now.
Maybe this would be a big enough job to catch his attention.....lol.

Thanks again for everything guys.......I think I'm done my shopping so back to the books.
 
This thread is becoming a gold mine of information! By the time you're done it just might be the definitive thread on the overhaul.
PS , I shall soon be ordering the Han's manual.
I'm hitting the books right along with you!
Haha this is kinda like a flight trainer, I'll know how to fly before I ever have to take off, so to speak.
Carry on!
 
I have a question, if you take your jugs to a machine shop to be bored, do they return them in a ready to assemble state? Do you have to do any finish honing? Clean up for metal particles? I've never done it, so I'm curious.
 
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