I do.
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Project Canuck- 84 XS650 Project Build
- Thread starter canuck1969
- Start date
Figured it out......
Went to check the TCI wires and was confused by there being no wire on the harness plug to match up with the red/white wire on the TCI plug...
Looked at the diagram....should be a wire...looked at the harness...no corresponding wire. WTF.....
Crap. Identical plug as the rectifier plug. Both come out of the harness at the same spot, both same number of connectors, both identical. Who the F designed that part. I know...should have looked at the colors. My bad. Swapped the plugs around. Held my breath that I did not blow something and checked for spark...success.
Put gas back in the carbs. Pulled the choke and fired right up and settled into a perfect idle....wait. What was that sound............what is that rod that is rolling on the floor....where the hell is all that oil coming from.
Learned a valuable lesson. Don't start the bike with the left side cover off unless you hold the clutch rod in place. It came shooting out followed by a stream of oil all over my shoes. Oh well. At least I know the clutch rod oil seal holds.
Ran it for a bit (while holding in the clutch rod) and seemed to run ok. Need to finish up the air box and get a chain sorted out and then the tank.
For now I can breathe easy knowing it will run................
Went to check the TCI wires and was confused by there being no wire on the harness plug to match up with the red/white wire on the TCI plug...
Looked at the diagram....should be a wire...looked at the harness...no corresponding wire. WTF.....
Crap. Identical plug as the rectifier plug. Both come out of the harness at the same spot, both same number of connectors, both identical. Who the F designed that part. I know...should have looked at the colors. My bad. Swapped the plugs around. Held my breath that I did not blow something and checked for spark...success.
Put gas back in the carbs. Pulled the choke and fired right up and settled into a perfect idle....wait. What was that sound............what is that rod that is rolling on the floor....where the hell is all that oil coming from.
Learned a valuable lesson. Don't start the bike with the left side cover off unless you hold the clutch rod in place. It came shooting out followed by a stream of oil all over my shoes. Oh well. At least I know the clutch rod oil seal holds.
Ran it for a bit (while holding in the clutch rod) and seemed to run ok. Need to finish up the air box and get a chain sorted out and then the tank.
For now I can breathe easy knowing it will run................
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Sure glad I've never pulled the old start it with the LH cover off trick.
Great to hear you found that tricky identical plugs feint.
Great to hear you found that tricky identical plugs feint.
The really silly part is that all Yamaha had to do was reverse male/female on one of 'em and there wouldn't be a problem with using the same connectors in close proximity...
Ah...yes......she will be christened in style once it is fully complete. Along with a name reveal........
Is there supposed to be o rings on the t-connector on the carbs. There was not one when I took it apart and thought that was strange. Didn't leak before I took it apart but suspect is was just plugged up with old fuel crap. Cleaned it up when I put it back together and now it leaks.
The parts manual does not show o-rings. It is just basically warn out. Can o-rings be added. Looks like the aftermarket aluminum one comes with o-rings but the Canadian supplier is currently out of stock. The existing one is in good condition...just leaks (yes, does not make sense, I know)
The parts manual does not show o-rings. It is just basically warn out. Can o-rings be added. Looks like the aftermarket aluminum one comes with o-rings but the Canadian supplier is currently out of stock. The existing one is in good condition...just leaks (yes, does not make sense, I know)
82SJ service manual..............Can't guarantee there arn't any faults
no o rings................the T should be a firm fit so it has to be moved by hand and be able to feel some good resistance...........On mine the T was loose so i got some fuel resistance O'rings, carefully made a groove, between the 2 bumps on the end of each arm, and checking regularly til the tee slid into the carb body with a tight fit....Worked no leaks.
I musta' tossed my old one so I can't answer. Sprung for this brass one from XS650 Shop. Kinda spendy but I like the peace of mind brass and rubber seals give.
Leave it overnight before you give up. The fuel swells the rubber, sometimes that's enough.
That may be happening. The second time I filled the float bowls it did not leak as much. Let’s see what happens tomorrow.
Already have one and a Hayes but thanks anyways
Congrats Canuck!
Especially if the part was solvent cleaned, period piece' bs34 tee dripped on assembly, but stopped overnight and it's been fine for the second summer now.
I'll post up in the wintergreen oil thread but found a small bottle of "pure" wintergreen oil for $8 at the local food/supplement store, soaking a nice foot peg rubber in a bag now before I try to remove it. My point is any old rubber likes a bit of help from a lubricant, moisturizer.
I'll post up in the wintergreen oil thread but found a small bottle of "pure" wintergreen oil for $8 at the local food/supplement store, soaking a nice foot peg rubber in a bag now before I try to remove it. My point is any old rubber likes a bit of help from a lubricant, moisturizer.
Leak looks like it has now gone away. Let her run for a little longer today. Still don't have the air box on so can't really adjust anything. Something is up with the idle. Idling fine. Stead and smooth and then all of a sudden up goes the RPM to about 3K. Turn it off. Idles fine for a minute and then up it goes. Does not sound like an intake leak (all new gaskets). Almost sounds like the choke starts to pass. Backed off the idle screw and seems to be ok now but will need to delve into that once it is back to stock conditions. Had to set the idle by ear as there is something funky happening with my tach. Won't go above 3K RPM and then slow to come back (engine is reving up and down fine). I think it was working fine before disassembly. Will pull the cable and take a look. May have lubed it a little too much or don't have something in right. More on that later.
For now, will put everything back together (minus the tank) and then try to troubleshoot later. Have some other bikes to get ready before the snow flies here.
Took a couple of minutes to check out the tach. It is working fine. The needle is just slow to respond to quick changes in rpm. Hooked my drill up to the drive end of the cable and the needle did track at slow speeds but any quick ups and downs it took a few seconds to track it properly. Was actually getting better running it for a minute or so at an indicated 6000 RPM. May be a little gummy after sitting all those years. Was able to set the idle better knowing I need to wait a couple of seconds for it to respond but setting by sound still works better. Will have to break it open at some point to clean and lube up the internals.
That being said, looks like the gear ratio of the tach gear is about 4 to 1. Anyone know if that sounds about right.
That being said, looks like the gear ratio of the tach gear is about 4 to 1. Anyone know if that sounds about right.
The tachometer drive ratio is 1:5, an input speed of 500 rpm should display 2500 rpm.
(Post #28)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/early-...rebuild-rejuvenation.31305/page-2#post-316523
5:1 sounds about right. I was guesstimating based on my drills labeled RPM (in reverse?) and looking at the tach from an angle when it was running. Will look over that post and see what I can do about getting it cleanned and lubed properly. That seems to be the issue.
Find many times tachs take a bit to "wake up" after a long dormant period.
