Trouble/What To Do With This Stock BS34 Minikuni Carb?

[650Skull]

Or a flat bladed screwdriver using the wiggle lever method between the head and post..............

 

[grizld1]

An automatic punch will do the job. I prefer to press the pin out, distributing the load across both posts.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

A lil' update.
Best place to post this, I guess.
A float post repair service.

https://www.chinookfabricationanddesign.com/carburetor-float-post-repair

 

[xjwmx]

Costs a hundred bucks.

 

[timbeck]

May well be worth it....................
tim

 

[gggGary]

Doesn't look like the screw head would clear the float bowl, jus say'n. Might be good for rarer carbs than XS650 BS38's

 

[peanut]

I find it odd that the seller chose to use a cruddy oxidized trash carb as a marketing image for his service ?
Has he not repaired a better looking carb than that one ?
Aside from the ridiculous price I'd steer well clear myself if he thinks that that carb is still viable and economical to repair

 

[5twins]

Yes, I think it's still pretty easy to score 650 carb sets for $100 or less. I've laid in several spare sets over the last few years, and am always on the look out for more.

 

[DogBunny]

I've been wanting to share this since about forever. From my collection of XS650 oddities:

These posts are not broken -- they are corroded!

When I opened it up, the float and the pin were still there, sitting on a huge pile of aluminum oxide fluff.

Same carb set, other side. The top of the post on the right has corroded away.

 

[5twins]

I've run across carbs like that too, rotten on the inside, lol.

 

[Jim]

Off the top of my head I can see a better, easier and cheaper way to fix those posts. Machine what's left of the post flat. This could even be done with a mill bit and a drill press, you wouldn't need a mill. Drill a hole into the carb. body centered on your milled face. Turn out a shouldered pin on your lathe (or give the dimensions to a friend with a lathe) so that the shoulder is an interference fit into the hole you drilled in the body. Drill a float pivot hole in the pin and press that sucker in. Would actually be pretty easy.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Lots of good info in this thread.
More threads covering broken float posts:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/broken-float-post-argh.5748/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/broken-float-post-advice-bs38.21208/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/bs34-float-post-repair.40014/

Edit: 7-24-2018, Canuck1969 post repair.

(Posts #23 - #51)
http://www.xs650.com/threads/project-canuck-84-xs650-project-build.52613/page-2#post-557215

I'd like to motion that:
- This thread's title be modified to include "Broken float post repairs"
- Then be moved to the Tech section.

 

[Jim]

I'd like to motion that:
- This thread's title be modified to include "Broken float post repairs"
- Then be moved to the Tech section.

I Second. Good info here.

 

[spectra]

Wow see all the post of broken or rotted off posts..........I would just find another set of carbs as there out there.

That pic from Dogbunny

 

[Paul Sutton]

Oldish thread but have something relevant to add. Taking Peanuts advice (Entry 3) on repairing Aluminum alloy with low temperature brazing/soldering I purchased some AluBuild 300. This is a 300 Celsius melting material and just requires that the metal surface is clean. I used it to repair a small alloy component from a Virago but noticed in the accompanying literature that it is suitable for a wide range of Aluminum alloys and those contaiing Zinc. It specifically names Zamak, potmetal and monkey metal. This should be good for those minor repairs to carburetors.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Good one, Paul. Zamak's melting point is around 370°C - 390°C. A bit touchy for welding, would require care during heating. Now we just need a test monkey...