For carb service help, go here:www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf
Clutch adjustment needed. As cases warm up and expand, clutch plate separation diminishes. On my ‘76 I often do a quick adjust on the lever after I’ve warmed it up well, then back it off when cold.Alright I little update on the bike situation I cleaned the carbs (bs38s) with carb cleaner and compressed air checked the diaphragms and they are in great condition. I had to change a rubber washer on one of the jets (I'll attach a photo of that) I also changed the spark plugs. The bike now idles fine on both sides but has a bit of a sputter between 2-3k rpm anything before that runs great everything after that runs great pulls hard. I'm thinking I just have a bit of fine tuning in the carbs left or it might just need another deep cleaning.
New issue that seems to arise now and then is when the bike warms up and I've ridden it for a while the clutch seems to stick. I can find neutral easy but even then the bike seems to still be engaged and slows down. It doesn't cause me to stall at all but just curious as to what that may be
I'd have to check the needle placement when I get back home. They are bs38s from a 1979 xs650 special and I'm using these filters here.
Yes they do, but you’ll need a special pair of long nose circlip pliers to remove the plastic hold down disc inside the slide. Got mine on Amazon for reasonably cheap and quick.I took the filters off and it seemed to run worse lt wont let me attach a video. Haven't checked the needle hight on the bike but I thought the 79' bs38s don't have an adjustable needle?
I did yeah fully removed and cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air. I double checked with a light to make sure all the holes were good.Did you remove and check/clean the pilot jets?
Before you order the pliers, remove the diaphragms and make sure they are the type that have the clip in them. If they are an earlier generation BS38 they may not be needed.I did yeah fully removed and cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air. I double checked with a light to make sure all the holes were good.
I've been messing with the adjustment screws on both carbs the right is the recommended 2.5 turns but the left seems to backfire immediately if it's anything less that 2 right now it seemed to run a tad bit better at 3.5 turns out but still isn't running its best.
I am going to order those pliers and see what my needle is set to but im not sure why the right side is running quite well but the left isn't.
I'll take a bunch of pics this weekend of thr carbs off the engine and everything inbetween.Post up some pics of the engine, carbs etc. someone might see something that will help you out.
I'm out of carb cleaner but I will grab some and some starting spray and do that test this weekend here also. It dies as soon as I apply the choke. I start it with no choke every day (10°-15° in Vancouver Canada) and it starts up well.confirm the float bowl choke orifice is open?
Spray carb cleaner on the throttle shafts and about the intake manifolds while it's running.
It should need choke for a cold start.I'm out of carb cleaner but I will grab some and some starting spray and do that test this weekend here also. It dies as soon as I apply the choke. I start it with no choke every day (10°-15° in Vancouver Canada) and it starts up well.
I have replaced the floats and the needles with brand new ones from xs650direct I'll send a pic of the left spark plug tonight (I changed them out last week)It should need choke for a cold start.
When it's running on just one side, shut down pull the dead cylinder plug, what do you see, show a pic?
did you replace the float needle valves? it's pretty much a must do on old BS38's, the steel on brass seats tend to leak with age.
do a HOT water float dip, leak test. It's another old carbs issue especially up here in the great white north, brass floats fine cracking/ leaks.