I only weigh 150# and usually start at 90% the max load stated pressure on the tire itself. I don't think the book reflects current-day tires. Then I typically adjust it down (if harsh ride or feels lacking grip) to the point were the handling presents a little more "movement" and then set it about mid-range of those two points: a compromise between harsh and "Squirmy". All that usually produces a result within 4-5psi under sidewall imprint depending on the tire. My front pressures are typically even to 2psi higher than rear if it's a match set.Update - the Shinko 712s are installed on the bike as of this past Saturday and have about 100 miles on them. I'm playing around with different air pressures (my Haynes book says 23 to 25 psi front and 28 to 30 psi rear; I'm curious to know what pressures you guys run. It seemed to me these road tires wanted more air pressure than that (I had dual sports tires before) but the bike doesn't seem to like it, especially the front tire.
The tire install went well.
Same here 5T, modern rubber requires more air. On track days, or off road, we usually run lower than recommended pressures. But for a 40+ year old road bike on new boots go with 5T's recommendations.Those air pressure values in your manual are from the '70s and for the tires back then. Today's tires usually like a bit more air in them. I usually go about 30 - 32 front and 35 or 36 rear.
I have one like that. Very solid construction.Start watching eBay for a Rowe brand spoke wrench. It's a very nice little tool and I've yet to find a spoke it won't fit. But beware, there are lots of Chinese knock-offs out there. An original will have the "Rowe" name clearly stamped on it .....
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That idle speed would be low for me. On my XS I think it idles around 1,100 and that sound pretty low (especially to the 1500 ish rpm of the water Buffalo).I did adjust the idle screw. Need to fix the video. Sorry, I suck at this uploading etc.