1981 XS650 misfiring VIDEO

This is exactly what i said to do earlier. Hope it helped you.
Yes it has. Thanks a bunch.

So this pretty much narrows it down to a defective stator or pickup. I decided to remove it so I could check all the wires, just in case one is broken. However, I hit a snag. I can't seem to figure out how to remove this metal piece highlighted in yellow. Again, the Clymer's manual is worthless for guidance here.

Thank you in advance.
 

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don't need to remove it, just bend that little tab (the one you took the bolt out) up a bit to get the wires out.
 
just a quick thought, not sure what you plan on doing with the bike but if you're keeping it and would like a trouble free charging system then maybe consider the permanent magnet swap, not sure what stators are going for these days but for the price of a rotor and stator and reg, you could just do this and be done with it. Plus your buying another 30year old stator that may end up causing the same problem down the road.
Here a link
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6117
 
^ Nope, he'd need a new ignition sys too, to do the pm swap. And give up e-start of course. Selling a working tci and rotor and stator on the 'bay would cover some of the cost.
 
If you use a oem replacement or newer/better AGM battery, you'd retain the electronic start.

Most people do it so they won't need a battery. Not sure why else you would. If you're worried about your rotor windings, just have it rewound preemptively... I think the TCI is more reliable than aftermarket igs, from all the talk about blown aftermarket units lately. I carry a spare tci that I got for $35 on ebay.
 
You inferred that PMA ≠ electric start. That is an incorrect statement, that's all I wanted to clear up.

Pamco + PMA a great setup for these ~35 year old motorcycles. Replacement of suspect electronics with modern (only 20 year old :)) systems does not require you to remove features.
 
Sure - if you have a battery, you can have electric start.

But you can get equal or better reliability and do it more inexpensively by keeping the systems you have.
 
Cafe-Dave, The PMA deletes the safety relay on all models, the later models the headlight turns on with the safety relay. On the 80 up models you lose the stock electronic ignition.
There may be other "features" you loose but I can't think of any right now.
Leo
 
Problem Solved!

So I got an Ebay stator. Installed it and it didn't even allow the bike to start. Luckily the seller accepts returns.

I reinstalled my old stator and decided to give another try to putting the radio shack magnet on top of my rotor's timing magnet. It didn't work the last time, but I figured it was worth another shot. After I put it on the rotor the bike sorta started, then died really fast. So, I got out the other magnet, since they come in a box of 2. I installed this magnet, and now it runs, charges, and functions perfectly.

I really find it hard to believe that in a box of two magnets, one would work and the other would not, but this fixed it for me. I rode the bike a good 20 minutes and everything is good. I will report back if anything changes. Very strange.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 

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Problem Solved!

So I got an Ebay stator. Installed it and it didn't even allow the bike to start. Luckily the seller accepts returns.

I reinstalled my old stator and decided to give another try to putting the radio shack magnet on top of my rotor's timing magnet. It didn't work the last time, but I figured it was worth another shot. After I put it on the rotor the bike sorta started, then died really fast. So, I got out the other magnet, since they come in a box of 2. I installed this magnet, and now it runs, charges, and functions perfectly.

I really find it hard to believe that in a box of two magnets, one would work and the other would not, but this fixed it for me. I rode the bike a good 20 minutes and everything is good. I will report back if anything changes. Very strange.

Thanks for everyone's help!

maybe the polartity was changed on the second magnet I don't think that north/south should make a differance but maybe
 
These are "earth" magnets.. so they should have been fine. I'm glad it worked, I had the smae problem and could not understand why you were having a problem. I'm glad this got it fixed. Did you JD weld it on?
 
What I'm surprised about is that it does not hit the pickup as it rotates. Under those 6 'button' holes are the screws that hold the plate that the brush's ride on to the rotor body. I guess you could drill out the old magnet if you really needed to. On the 650 RIDER site there is a sticky on exactly how to disassemble and rebuild your rotor yourself. Not all that hard, just keeping the new wire on the spool without fucking it up looks tough. It gives you the specs for the wire and how much you need for the proper amount of resistance. Someday I will get enough courage to try it. Courage, wasn't that a Civil War era outpost? Where the heckowie?
 
He has a photo in his previous post It is on the edge of the rotor, you will see it sticking up from the surface. See it, on the right side of the rotor?.I have several rotors off early models, and I tried to duplicate the placement with no success. My mcrometer eye's are not as good as they used to be. Click on the photo & it gets enlarged, in case you did not know.
 
No I saw that, just couldn'd believe that little magnet solved that issue. Thats just crazy to me. LOL. Just wanted someone else to point it out to me, just couldnt believe my eyes .
 
What's strange is that the factory magnet is epoxied in and function's well, at least on mine it does. He might have a weak transistor in the box, and a stronger magnet is enough to make a stronger pulse, thats all I can think of.
 
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