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78 Standard Charging Low - Stock - Brushes Fine
- Thread starter PHeller
- Start date
Well, it appears the charging system is functioning, just not putting out enough. You're seeing a change from idle to 3K output so maybe just a voltage regulator adjustment will fix things for you .....
Mine never put out a high enough charging rate ever since I owned it, just over 12 at idle and about 13.5 at 3K. Adequate but not ideal. I found the point gap (#4) too large. I closed it up to within spec and now I charge correctly, around 13 at idle, just over 14 at 3K. The bracket #5 has a slotted mounting hole. Loosen the Phillips screw and you can move the bracket up and down to adjust the point gap (#4). I didn't need to fool with the actual adjusting screw (#10).
Mine never put out a high enough charging rate ever since I owned it, just over 12 at idle and about 13.5 at 3K. Adequate but not ideal. I found the point gap (#4) too large. I closed it up to within spec and now I charge correctly, around 13 at idle, just over 14 at 3K. The bracket #5 has a slotted mounting hole. Loosen the Phillips screw and you can move the bracket up and down to adjust the point gap (#4). I didn't need to fool with the actual adjusting screw (#10).
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Have you measured the rotor resistance from slip ring to slip ring? ( brushes removed, and use low scale) Also check from one slip ring to the rotor frame using a high scale.
Slip ring to slip ring should be 5 or 6 ohms. To frame should be infinity.
Slip ring to slip ring should be 5 or 6 ohms. To frame should be infinity.
The rotor tends to fail by internal shorts between wires, it still creates a charge, just less of one and the draw of the rotor on the battery increases as the resistance goes down.
cmyoch
XS650 Junkie
I just completed replacing a majority of my charging components when I believe the regulator was the culprit all along. I did the VR-115 swap and the Radio Shack rectifier build. My resistance tests were spot on with my rotor and stator. My charging is up to par now.
How do I test the output of the alternator before the regulator?
I adjusted the regulator gap at the points which were really far off, I put them to .012", but still getting low charging at the battery at idle.
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I adjusted the regulator gap at the points which were really far off, I put them to .012", but still getting low charging at the battery at idle.
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touch a lead from the battery to the hot brush it should go full charge.
yup outer lower, you can see the other one is grounded.
Yup new rotor unless you can rewind and that is NOT trivial!
check again with more accurate meter...resistance is still 2.5ohms...
not looking good.
Anyway I can be DAMN SURE the rotor is the problem?
If it is, I'll just upgrade to the PMA, which I only have $70 into right now (Ninja Stator, Banshee Mounting Bracket, Banshee Flywheel) so that make my total costs for that around $140.
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not looking good.
Anyway I can be DAMN SURE the rotor is the problem?
If it is, I'll just upgrade to the PMA, which I only have $70 into right now (Ninja Stator, Banshee Mounting Bracket, Banshee Flywheel) so that make my total costs for that around $140.
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Yup, the rotor has a partial short. You had current flow through some of the windings, giving partial magnetism, so you only had a small amount of charging.
edit:
I'm not sure I would call the PMA an upgrade. A PMA and the stock electro-magnet type alternator, both produce electricity.....................they just do it slightly differently.
The stock alternator modulates the rotor current when more or less power is needed. The PMA runs with full power output at all times and then has to dump the extra power produced in the form of heat.
edit:
I'm not sure I would call the PMA an upgrade. A PMA and the stock electro-magnet type alternator, both produce electricity.....................they just do it slightly differently.
The stock alternator modulates the rotor current when more or less power is needed. The PMA runs with full power output at all times and then has to dump the extra power produced in the form of heat.
