Advantages of BS34 carbs over BS38?

TheRadBaron

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I was just wondering the reasoning behind Yamaha changing from the BS38 carbs to the smaller BS34s for the later years of the XS650. Do the 34s offer better fuel mileage, throttle response, etc? I have a '77 with the 38s on it and I'm happy with them. I have a set of 34s as well, and I was thinking about swapping them onto the bike if there's an advantage to them. I'm more concerned with throttle response, low-end to midrange power, and fuel economy than high-end power.
 
Epa laws propably was the reason.A 38mm feeding a 34mm rubber intake(motor side) and then you got a 34mm opening on the head intakes.Hummm.Bottle neck effect?.Meaby
 
In theory the 34 mm carbs will improve the low end and midrange with a slight drop in top end.
The smaller venturi will increase the velocity of the incoming air, this should increase cylinder fill at lower rpms. At the upper rpms the smaller venturi will restrict the free flow of air. Weather this works to a noticable effect on the street is questionable.
I have a set of 82 BS34's That I may try just to see if it will have any effect.
I still need to do some experementing with my BS38's. It runs good, maybe a bit lean at midrange.
 
If the BS34's you have still contain stock main and pilot jets, I'm not sure you would be happy with the results if you put them on your '77. BS34 stock jetting was designed to meet EPA regulations that came into effect after your '77 was built, basically by running the bike very lean to limit hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide tailpipe emissions. Even with stock airboxes, air filters and exhaust systems, BS34s need larger mains and pilots to work their best. I was lucky to get a set of XSJohn's BS34 needles before he passed away recently - with these installed, and with 135 mains and 46 pilots, my '82 is now quite happy.
 
Until recently, the BS34s were always considered the black sheep of the XS650 carb family. Too lean from the factory, E.P.A. strangled, and harder to tune for mods. The major problem was that fixed needle that allowed for no midrange adjustment. That's all changed now with the availability of adjustable needles for these carbs. Over the next few years, they may even emerge as the preferred choice for these bikes.

They do have some advantages over the 38s. They're a newer and more modern design and they are also lighter. They also have that removable air jet for the pilot circuit which gives you another way to fine tune it.

Yes, a smaller carb is supposed to give better low and midrange performance. My buddy has 2 BS34 equipped 650s. I've ridden them both and really found no difference in performance compared to my BS38 equipped '78. They certainly don't run any worse.

Your '77 carbs are very strong in the midrange. They had the largest needle jet (Z-8) ever installed in a 38. They suffer a bit on top because in order to run that large needle jet, they had to install a smaller main (122.5). In fact, that was the smallest main ever put in the 650. In some markets, that carb set came with an even smaller 117.5 main.

So, if you like to tinker and have an extra $80 to $100 to blow, you might want to give the 34s a try. You'll need new manifolds, air filters, needles, and some jets. Once set up properly and dialed in, you may just like them.
 
I really would like to try a set of BS34s on my bike some day. It's just that I have 3 good sets of BS38s on hand now to burn through 1st, lol. I just can't justify the cost of fixing up my ratty set of 34s when I don't have a pressing need for more carbs.
 
For what it's worth...this is a re-list. First time around it had a $195 Buy It Now and no takers (which I thought was a decent value). I agree with you, I'd be surprised if it didn't sell at around $200. Those OEM carb holders are getting hard to find....they hold up to ethanol fuels pretty well btw....go figure.

Update & close out.....sold for $258 Still a good buy
 
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I think the BS34's are easier to overhaul and I prefer the solid foam floats to the brass ones. the aluminum tops on the 38's look nice. Small washers from Radio shack will raise the taper jets and give satisfactory, smooth mid range on a stocker at a very low cost.
 
i just sold a fellow a set of bs34 carbs,, he is running mikes xs air pods, chopped exhaust and pamco ignition with high output coil. I'm thinking 142.5 on the mains, what are thoughts on shimming the needles
 
If you're running 142.5 mains, you probably don't need to shim the needles, or at least not in the direction (richer) that's possible on the BS34s. They mount their needles spring loaded from the top and solid into the bottom of the slide. You can only shim them up (richer). Adding washers above the e-clip will do nothing as far as needle height is concerned, only preload the spring more.

As you increase the main jet size, the bleed-over richens the upper part of the midrange as well. Larger pilots do the same to the lower part of the midrange. Increase these jets far enough and the midrange becomes too rich. Leaning (by lowering) the needle is the usual fix. That can't be done with the stock BS34 needle or at least not very much anyway. There is a 1/2mm thick washer under the e-clip that can be removed. That would give you the equivalent of a 1/2 step leaner position, sometimes enough to cure upper midrange stumbles brought on by larger mains but sometimes not. That's where the adjustable needles now available come in.

With 142.5 mains, I think you're at the point where you may have to start thinking about making the midrange leaner, not richer.
 
okay going to leave the needle alone, I reread your post,, makes a lot of sense,, thanks
 

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After seeing your pic and looking again at a parts diagram, I see I was wrong about the steel washer location. So that means you can't lean that needle unless maybe you file the plastic spacer washer down. If I needed to tune the midrange on a set of 34s, I think I'd just get the adjustable needles.
 
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