Another XS Build - Need your help/suggestions

[zeroxs650]

Well, this past spring I purchased an 81 XS650 in New York that my son could use. Now that the weather is getting colder, I picked up the bike so I can clean it up and make some changes. My last build was a 77 xs650 and it turned out nice but had a budget overrun when I had to replace the top end. I am hoping to keep in the $1000 budget for this build. This site has been a great resource of information for me as well the openness of the members to answer my questions.
Here are few pictures:

LET THE FUN BEGIN....

 

[zeroxs650]

Well, I got my first issue. The nut holding the front axle will not come off. If I heat the nut, will it loosen it enough for me to take it off? I tried an impact wrench but no success. Any suggestions?

 

[uncle meat]

Is the nut rusted? If so, give a couple of good smacks on the flat sides of the nut with a hammer. Don't wail on it, just firm smacks, it should break the rust loose so you can loosen the nut. Heat would probably work, too. Also, make sure the pin you pulled out is complete and not broken off in the axle, if there was a pin. Good luck!

UM

 

[zeroxs650]

The nut appears NOT to be rusted, sprayed it with WD-40 in hopes that it will seep into the threads enough for me to break it loose. The cotter pin was removed intact. Will try a breaker bar and hammer before I try the heat method.

 

[weekendrider]

The nut holding the front axle will not come off

This is not the axle nut but one of the two holding the split collar on the bottom of the left lower?
If so, just because I'm curious is the gap in the collar on the front or the back?

 

[zeroxs650]

It is the castle nut that is at the end of the axle, I will try using a breaker bar to get more leverage or an impact wrench.

 

[weekendrider]

Ahh I thought you already tried the impact, if not go ahead. A couple of raps one way, then the other other. I would not try to take it all the way in one shot, loosen the threads first.

 

[zeroxs650]

Got it loose using a home made breaker bar, used a 3 ft pipe added to my racket and got it loose. Now on to removing the front end; change the fluid, paint the lowers, rebuild the front caliper. Looking for mags if anyone is interested in a trade for spoke wheels.

 

[zeroxs650]

I am looking to replace the stock speedo/tach with mini's. There seems to be a multitude of products out their and would like to know what others have purchased. I am looking for gauges that can be hooked up with to the current stock wiring. I know their will be some splicing/soldering, just want to make sure the wiring matches. Thanks for any input...

 

[zeroxs650]

Started to polish the front forks using wet/dry sandpaper. Did use paint stripper to remove what was left of the clear coat to make it easier.

 

[zeroxs650]

I am looking to purchase air filter pods for my bike, here is a link to the UNI filters that has been discussed on the forum.
https://www.amazon.com/Uni-Air-Filt..._rd_wg=WJrUi&refRID=FJHKVM5969MA77Z2GTS1&th=1
Their are 53MM and I read that the 81 has 54MM carbs, will this fit being a MM smaller?

 

[zeroxs650]

I am interested in trimming the front fender, I am thinking 6" off the front and 4" off the back. Has anyone trimmed their fender and if so how much did you take off? Don't want it too short.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I liked fox23's front fender:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/project-track-star.40426/page-5#post-447575

 

[fredintoon]

Hi zero,
here's my personal biases:-
Lose the rototiller bars!
Their height may be OK for a tall rider but the grips should be pointing a lot more outwards.
Swap in CB750 bars to get the same height and a more ergonomic grip angle or XS650 Standard bars are a nice fit for most folks.
Keep the stock gauges!
They stand up better than the el-cheapo mini-gauges and the stockers dials are big enough to see.
Leave the front fender alone!
The late model front fenders are only just long enough to actually work as-is and cropping one would not only lessen it's effectiveness but would also spoil the ends look.
Yes!
Swap to artillery wheels, so long as they have the stamped-in writing that says they are OK for tubeless.
The first time you can ride home with a nail in your tubeless tire instead of having to phone a "bro with truck" or fix a flat tube tire at the roadside in the rain you'll bless the day you made the swap.
Any XS Series front will fit, drum rear XS650 artillery wheels are the only easy option and are sometimes hard to find.

 

[zeroxs650]

Fred, I'm with you on the bars, purchased euro style bars. I am getting mags, found someone to trade straight up for my spoked wheels. I did trim the fender, I know it takes away from its effectiveness but wanted a different look. I've decided to keep the stock gauges, with all I've read on find the appropriate gauge without paying the price.

 

[fredintoon]

Fred, I'm with you on the bars, purchased euro style bars. I am getting mags, found someone to trade straight up for my spoked wheels. I did trim the fender, I know it takes away from its effectiveness but wanted a different look. I've decided to keep the stock gauges, with all I've read on find the appropriate gauge without paying the price.

Hi zero,
if your swapee has a drum rear cast wheel to swap, that's real easy, wire wheel out, cast wheel in, everything fits. If the swap includes the tires, that's it.
OTOH, if you are swapping for a disk rear cast wheel the swap should include the swingarms and brake application hardware.
The good, the rear disk works better. The bad, your frame don't have a mount for the disk brake master cylinder so you'd have to make one.

 

[zeroxs650]

I've taken the top triple tree off to clean and polish and noticed the steering feels "notchy" when I move it left to right. I am thinking of replacing the neck bearings. I've read several threads on the subject but am hesitant to do so, not a mechanic. How hard is it to replace the bearings? Are the MikesXS bearings worthy or another aftermarket?

 

[retiredgentleman]

I've taken the top triple tree off to clean and polish and noticed the steering feels "notchy" when I move it left to right. I am thinking of replacing the neck bearings. I've read several threads on the subject but am hesitant to do so, not a mechanic. How hard is it to replace the bearings? Are the MikesXS bearings worthy or another aftermarket?

If you have some mechanical ability, you can do the job yourself. Read all of the "steering bearing" threads on this site. Most parts from Mikesxs are not worthy. Buy the tapered bearings from All Balls Racing..................a high quality part.

 

[zeroxs650]

Thanks retiredgentleman for the feedback. I am looking where to purchase the steering head bearings locally and will attempt it.

 

[fredintoon]

Thanks retiredgentleman for the feedback. I am looking where to purchase the steering head bearings locally and will attempt it.

Hi zero,
any fool can do the headrace swap. I know because I did mine. Like retd. gent. sez, It's all researchable right here.
But there's one trick that might escape your overview. When you lift off the top half of the upper bearing you'll se a ring of steel bearing balls.
Lift them all off immediately, perhaps with a big magnet. I didn't and just one of them dropped down between the steering stem and the frame tube.
It's exactly the right diameter to act as a wedge and lock the stem into the frame tube.
It took my biggest hammer to drive the stem down and out of there.