Authentic front axle parts

[Shipper]

So, still having problems with free spin on the front wheel after I torque down the axle bolt on my 75 xs. Tore the front axle/wheel apart yet again and after confirming the authenticity of all parts, I am left with the "spacer flange" which obviously shows no pictures on the net under part number. The ID is obviously correct as it fits snug over the spacer. Can anyone confirm that this is in fact the proper spacer flange and I am not missing a "thicker" flange that would perhaps give me the clearance I need for free spin.

Clearly, I'm missing something.

OK, after some thought I have identified the spacer flange as correct and it clearly has no impact on fork width at the axle. Anybody got any idea's - I still have a tight wheel after torquing the axle bearing.

Thanks

 

[5twins]

That looks like the proper part but all it does is keep the center spacer from sliding off to the side too much. It doesn't have anything to do with the spacing between the bearings. That may be your problem. Your spacer tube may not be the right one. It may be too short. That would let the bearings pinch together too much when you tighten the axle and they would bind up. If you can, measure the distance in your hub between the two bearing seats. The spacer should be the same.

 

[Shipper]

That looks like the proper part but all it does is keep the center spacer from sliding off to the side too much. It doesn't have anything to do with the spacing between the bearings. That may be your problem. Your spacer tube may not be the right one. It may be too short. That would let the bearings pinch together too much when you tighten the axle and they would bind up. If you can, measure the distance in your hub between the two bearing seats. The spacer should be the same.

God Twins, that was a brilliant idea and certainly sounded like a legitimate solution - however, the measurements between the bearing seats are equal to the spacer tube. Any other ideas? I hate to just put washers on the axle inside the legs but I'm running out of ideas.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I'd double-down on 5twins inner spacer check. Doesn't take much to pinch those bearings. Using just the axle, and some pieces of plumbing pipe just long enuff to utilize the axle length, assemble the axle and these pipe pieces, only, to the wheel. After tightening the axle should rotate freely...

 

[Jim]

Might also be that you didn't get the bearings pressed all the way back in. Maybe some debris/burrs preventing it from seating fully against the wheel flange?

 

[Shipper]

I'd double-down on 5twins inner spacer check. Doesn't take much to pinch those bearings. Using just the axle, and some pieces of plumbing pipe just long enuff to utilize the axle length, assemble the axle and these pipe pieces, only, to the wheel. After tightening the axle should rotate freely...

Half nailed it TMXS1B's. Followed your advice with the pipe pieces and found that the bearings (wheel obviously out of the bike) still were dragging after tightening and then spinning. Then I did the same test with the speedo cup removed and guess what - it spun freely. WOW, finally some progress. Turns out the wear over time (or perhaps a previous miss-assembly by a PO) had the workings in the speedo cup dragging on the oil seal etc inside the hub. Inserted a 17mm id hardened steel tranny spacer at the bearing end on the speedo side to give me just that tiny bit of relief and the whole thing spins freely again after full assembly and torque. Must have had that beast apart 20 times! Thanks to Twins, Jim and TMXS1B's but the test advice was key.

 

[5twins]

Maybe the grease seal just isn't driven in all the way? It needs to be driven in as far as it will go. It should be inset into the hub opening, not flush with it.

 

[Shipper]

Maybe the grease seal just isn't driven in all the way? It needs to be driven in as far as it will go. It should be inset into the hub opening, not flush with it.

Agreed Twins and yes I checked that before reassembly but just to be sure, took it off one more time and checked it again. Recessed and set as is proper - thank god i still have free spin after reassembly. I know it sounds odd but everything is assembled to the manual and the spacer has resolved the problem so I'm happy.

Thanks for the continued quality advice. When I finally get my covers back from the shine shop - this thing's going to look like its right out of the box!

 

[5twins]

That is an odd problem. Here's a parts diagram for the speedo drive. Note that there is a spacer washer both in front of and behind the drive gear (#10 & #12). Maybe yours was assembled with both behind the gear? That would space it in farther towards the bearing and seals in the hub .....

 

[Shipper]

Ya, both washer plates are there and in the proper order. The only other possibility is that one or the other (or both) haver been switched out for thinner washer plates. That would have the same effect. I think i'm good with my current set up. I don't see where it could cause any operational problems as the spacer I put in can't go anywhere. What do you think?

 

[5twins]

Yes, it sounds fine. I've never seen this part wear out like yours seems to have. I wonder if there is a similar speedo drive from some other model that's sized slightly different, and maybe got swapped on there sometime in the past.

 

[Shipper]

Thanks. not likely I'm going to find another speedo cap out there somewhere for a decent price (that is without buying the leg but finds like that occassionally do happen) and see what difference it might make. Thanks for the help. Just happy to have free spin on it. Now the fun part - bleeding the brake.

 

[5twins]

Speedo drives are plentiful. I prefer the older unpainted versions, they polish up nice .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-73-YA...68545&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851#shpCntId