Blinker Issues

[650Skull]

@XSOTM .

Joined 2011, 6 posts.....5 of those posts are in a 5 min consecutive period ......above........have nothing to do with the thread or add any semblance of information that could b called worthy to anything.

 

[XSOTM]

@XSOTM .

Joined 2011, 6 posts.....5 of those posts are in a 5 min consecutive period ......above........have nothing to do with the thread or add any semblance of information that could b called worthy to anything.

Are you saying I'm irrelevant, irreverent, or just ignorant?

Thanks for noticing my suspicious activity ole buddy.

 

[Shelby]

Also, the rear fender is rubber mounted. Means it doesn't ground itself. Make sure the ground wire to the lights is good.

Alcohol to the rescue. Both to clean the wires and see I had the colors wrong, and to drink after.

And yes, one of the power leads (that was plugged into ground because the power leads are NOT all black on the rear, unlike my fronts. They're brown and green, albeit dirtied from time) was pinched in the frame. Disassembled, cleaned, sealed, and heat shrinked. Now all the turn signals do their thing.

Which leaves... project last -- the fuel tank and ignition system. Off to read up on replacing spark plug wires.

 

[sleddog83]

One of the things I often do when working on electrical problems is to sit down and create my own wiring diagram. As Shelby pointed out, the wiring diagrams in the manuals can be hard to follow. I am attaching the handwritten schematic for my SK model of the the signalling electrics. It should be similar to your model, or at least get you most of the way there. There are two drawings on the sheet, OEM on the top, and what it looks like after I modified it, on the bottom. Stick to the top diagram. My shop manual is full of scraps of paper with my own schematics.
A couple of other pointers:
Corrosion on the connectors, switches, sockets can be hard to spot. They might look like clean contacts, but it doesn't take much corrosion to gum things up. When you are going through the circuit, make a point of cleaning every contact regardless of what it looks like. Contact cleaners are fine but in a lot of cases you need to go at it with something better. I still have a relay contact cleaner that I use. An abrasive pencil eraser will some times do the trick.
Go through the circuit starting at the battery and work your way along, writing down the voltages as you go after every device/connector. You may notice a gradual voltage drop as you go along. This may be normal. Larger drops in voltage are more of an issue.
I assume you have a voltmeter. If you don't have one then get one. Don't need anything fancy. The largest voltage range you will be dealing with is 12 volts. I have attached a convenient grounding post on the frame of my bike just for the voltmeter. Saves me from messing around with dodgy alligator clips hung on questionable bolts, that always fall apart at the penultimate moment.

 

[gggGary]

One of the things I often do when working on electrical problems is to sit down and create my own wiring diagram. As Shelby pointed out, the wiring diagrams in the manuals can be hard to follow. I am attaching the handwritten schematic for my SK model of the the signalling electrics. It should be similar to your model, or at least get you most of the way there. There are two drawings on the sheet, OEM on the top, and what it looks like after I modified it, on the bottom. Stick to the top diagram. My shop manual is full of scraps of paper with my own schematics.
A couple of other pointers:
Corrosion on the connectors, switches, sockets can be hard to spot. They might look like clean contacts, but it doesn't take much corrosion to gum things up. When you are going through the circuit, make a point of cleaning every contact regardless of what it looks like. Contact cleaners are fine but in a lot of cases you need to go at it with something better. I still have a relay contact cleaner that I use. An abrasive pencil eraser will some times do the trick.
Go through the circuit starting at the battery and work your way along, writing down the voltages as you go after every device/connector. You may notice a gradual voltage drop as you go along. This may be normal. Larger drops in voltage are more of an issue.
I assume you have a voltmeter. If you don't have one then get one. Don't need anything fancy. The largest voltage range you will be dealing with is 12 volts. I have attached a convenient grounding post on the frame of my bike just for the voltmeter. Saves me from messing around with dodgy alligator clips hung on questionable bolts, that always fall apart at the penultimate moment.

diagram stolen...

 

[Shelby]

One of the things I often do when working on electrical problems is to sit down and create my own wiring diagram. As Shelby pointed out, the wiring diagrams in the manuals can be hard to follow. I am attaching the handwritten schematic for my SK model of the the signalling electrics. It should be similar to your model, or at least get you most of the way there. There are two drawings on the sheet, OEM on the top, and what it looks like after I modified it, on the bottom. Stick to the top diagram. My shop manual is full of scraps of paper with my own schematics.
A couple of other pointers:
Corrosion on the connectors, switches, sockets can be hard to spot. They might look like clean contacts, but it doesn't take much corrosion to gum things up. When you are going through the circuit, make a point of cleaning every contact regardless of what it looks like. Contact cleaners are fine but in a lot of cases you need to go at it with something better. I still have a relay contact cleaner that I use. An abrasive pencil eraser will some times do the trick.
Go through the circuit starting at the battery and work your way along, writing down the voltages as you go after every device/connector. You may notice a gradual voltage drop as you go along. This may be normal. Larger drops in voltage are more of an issue.
I assume you have a voltmeter. If you don't have one then get one. Don't need anything fancy. The largest voltage range you will be dealing with is 12 volts. I have attached a convenient grounding post on the frame of my bike just for the voltmeter. Saves me from messing around with dodgy alligator clips hung on questionable bolts, that always fall apart at the penultimate moment.

Thanks! Adding this to my collection of "Very useful" print outs.

 

[sleddog83]

Well I am sorry if I offended someone. I may have sourced that material some time ago when I made my notes. The point I was trying to make is to make your own notes, from whatever reference material you have at hand. Quite often when you write things down, it reinforces your understanding. Having it condensed down to a simplified diagram makes it easier to trouble shoot.

 

[gggGary]

Well I am sorry if I offended someone. I may have sourced that material some time ago when I made my notes. The point I was trying to make is to make your own notes, from whatever reference material you have at hand. Quite often when you write things down, it reinforces your understanding. Having it condensed down to a simplified diagram makes it easier to trouble shoot.

No! LOL
I stole your diagram and added it to my files, thanks!

 

[Shelby]

Well I am sorry if I offended someone. I may have sourced that material some time ago when I made my notes. The point I was trying to make is to make your own notes, from whatever reference material you have at hand. Quite often when you write things down, it reinforces your understanding. Having it condensed down to a simplified diagram makes it easier to trouble shoot.

Don't feel bad. After 30+ (and a few more ++s...) years collecting Useful Stuff I have zero idea where most of it came from, either. And NO ONE CARES.