richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Hey guys, just replacing front brakes on my 1981 xs650 special, the ones take off bike seemed to have a split between, the ones I ordered doesn't have that. Does it matter?
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Brake question:
- Thread starter richardthemotorcycle1
- Start date
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- Tags
- brakes
No, it doesn't matter. Stock pads had that split, not sure why. Most aftermarket will not have it. You might want to record the thickness (pad and backing plate) of the new ones so you can tell how much they're worn in the future. Minimum spec is 6mm (total of pad and backing plate). New pads (and backing plate) are around 12mm.
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
there is a longer one on the other shore, maybe shims?
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
I would use them. I think they're anti-squeal shims. Yamaha started using them in the early '80s. My '78 didn't have them and my aftermarket pads started squealing within a few hundred miles. I scrounged some of those shims from an '80 or '81 parts bike caliper and will be adding them if this doesn't work .....
I scrounged the rubber lined retainer from this parts bike caliper as well, another item my '78 didn't have. Just about to test drive it .....
I scrounged the rubber lined retainer from this parts bike caliper as well, another item my '78 didn't have. Just about to test drive it .....
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Thanks 5twins I will use them and hope those work out on your bike.
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
My brake shims seem to be metal ones
Yes, those large shims behind the pads are just all metal. The ones with the rubber insert are the little chrome ones (maybe stainless) that fit on the caliper bracket.
#5 below. I know, there's three #5's, lol. The #5 on the right .....
#5 below. I know, there's three #5's, lol. The #5 on the right .....
The groove in the pads may act as a vent. Like the holes or slots in the rotors do. As you use the brakes heat is created, this heat causes the pads to out gas. This gas can lift the pads off the rotors. The groove may act as a vent to release this gas build up.
Leo
Leo
chizler62
XS650 Addict
Thats pretty much it. The resin burns off a gas that vaporizes and actually creates a barrier thats reduces the brake contact area. Venting it away is important especially with solid rotors.
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richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Hey guys just another question, can I reverse bleed from brake caliper with my system being empty to fill my master cylinder?
chizler62
XS650 Addict
Yes, What I do is zip tie the master cylinder lever to the bars about 1/2" into the throw. That's just enough to open the return hole. Don't bring it all the way to the bars.
I have an oil squirt style can I put a hose on and push the fluid up into the master cylinder. Close bleeder. Then I use a low pressure vacuum pump. Hooked to the top of the master cylinder (an adapter that screws in place of the cap) leave it hooked up for a few hours and that should be it. No pumping and bleeding.
I have an oil squirt style can I put a hose on and push the fluid up into the master cylinder. Close bleeder. Then I use a low pressure vacuum pump. Hooked to the top of the master cylinder (an adapter that screws in place of the cap) leave it hooked up for a few hours and that should be it. No pumping and bleeding.
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Hey guys, got my brakes on all line cleaned and I reversed filled the master cylinder, working the handle, still getting air bubbles
nothing hard yet, how long does it take
any ideas?
nothing hard yet, how long does it take any ideas?
Royboy
many roads, little time
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Depends on your age.
Keep after it.
roy
Keep after it.roy
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Good one Roy lol, I work at this a long time, check the brake caliper and the Piston isn't moving, how does it come out?
Crack banjo on caliper, does fluid come out in a steady/drip stream? If so let it run a bit watch your reservoir, retighten. now try pumping the lever. once you get the piston moving get it to clamp the rotor even a little.
Now,
bike on side stand, bars full left, make sure reservoir is full, walk away, come back in the morning. Don't touch bike, try the lever.squeeze hard, release, a few times, that usually does it.
Why this works; the side stand, bars left, will create an always upward path from the caliper to the MC reservoir with no dips. check to be sure this is true in your install. If necessary remove, tape in place, reroute, so there are no "low spots" Given time, the small bubbles of air in the system will work their way up and out through the MC ports and reservoir. Those hard squeezes will send any last bit of air in the MC out.
Hint; it is easier to bleed and make less mess by doing this before you mount the caliper. This also lets you slowly retract the piston with a c-clamp, sending any air in the system up to the master cylinder. Use the c-clamp SLOWLY, it is easy to send a stream of brake fluid across the garage if you retract the piston too quickly, it's good to place the cap loosely on the reservoir! You can do this a few times, pump the piston out with the lever, retract it with the c-clamp. after retracting the piston allow some time for tiny air bubbles to exit the fluid in the reservoir before levering it out again.
Time is your friend, much of the air in a disturbed system is TINY bubbles, brake fluid is fairly thick, it takes time for gravity to work, sending air upward.
Now,
bike on side stand, bars full left, make sure reservoir is full, walk away, come back in the morning. Don't touch bike, try the lever.squeeze hard, release, a few times, that usually does it.
Why this works; the side stand, bars left, will create an always upward path from the caliper to the MC reservoir with no dips. check to be sure this is true in your install. If necessary remove, tape in place, reroute, so there are no "low spots" Given time, the small bubbles of air in the system will work their way up and out through the MC ports and reservoir. Those hard squeezes will send any last bit of air in the MC out.
Hint; it is easier to bleed and make less mess by doing this before you mount the caliper. This also lets you slowly retract the piston with a c-clamp, sending any air in the system up to the master cylinder. Use the c-clamp SLOWLY, it is easy to send a stream of brake fluid across the garage if you retract the piston too quickly, it's good to place the cap loosely on the reservoir! You can do this a few times, pump the piston out with the lever, retract it with the c-clamp. after retracting the piston allow some time for tiny air bubbles to exit the fluid in the reservoir before levering it out again.
Time is your friend, much of the air in a disturbed system is TINY bubbles, brake fluid is fairly thick, it takes time for gravity to work, sending air upward.
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Thanks Gary, I will give it a try.
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
Hey guys, FINALLY
Took the advice of Gary (thanks) brake job is done and everything working great, now to the next job (trying to get this bike on the road by June)
that would be a great Father's Day Gift
Took the advice of Gary (thanks) brake job is done and everything working great, now to the next job (trying to get this bike on the road by June)that would be a great Father's Day Gift
