wally_nd
XS650 Member
Here is a bit of history before I get into the actual question. I purchased a 1980 XS that had been stored in a shed since aprox 1990. The story goes that the original engine blew up and the guy bought an engine that had less than 1k miles on it and put it in but never could get any spark. I found that the engine was a points engine and of course the 1980 XS electronic ignition. That would explain why he wasn't getting spark HAHA. He had tied the leads coming from the points into the wires the pick had been tied to.
My engine # is 2F0-108118. In the tech forum i found a chart that say XS-F 78-79 2F0-020101 to (100000). My number is 8118 above that but i don't see another reference to the "2F0" prefix until about 200000. So i will assume my engine is a 79?
Also with reference from the tech section believe the chain tensioner i have is style "d"
Some additional history that my be relevant, i removed the heads and jugs, inspected the rings, checked the bores, checked the valve guides, and lapped the valves. I replaced the front cam chain guide and assembled the engine. While still on the bench i adjusted the cam chain tensioner so pin was flush, and set the valves.
This morning i fired the engine up and got it warm, put a timing light on it and got that pretty close. While doing that i noticed some top end noise but to be honest i don't have much xp with these engines so i don't know whats normal. I decided to go through the cam tensioner adjustment again and check the valve lash and this leads me to my question as i am aware if the cam chain isn't adjusted properly you wont be able to set the valves correctly.
I adjusted the tensioner bold as shown below.
when i turn the engine over there is one point during the rotation the pin pops out as shown below
Also you will notice there is not many threads still showing to put the acorn nut on.
First question that i didnt really understand from the how to video in the tech forum. Is the pin supposed to move in but adjust the bolt so the pin doesn't pop out past flush? I i tried to loosen but it didn't seem to help. i took the bolt all the way out and noticed there wasn't a washer between the spring and the adjuster bolt. see below.
I know know some of the tensioner styles had a washer here but i cant find a exact reference to the style "D" tensioner.
bottom line, if anyone can give me some feedback as to any of the assumptions above if they are correct and some clarification to the adjustment and part I may be missing. I would appreciate it very much
I did find one reference to a damper part number 341-12232-01-00 but it seems it wasn't available and it wasn't clear if i was looking at the correct parts list.
My engine # is 2F0-108118. In the tech forum i found a chart that say XS-F 78-79 2F0-020101 to (100000). My number is 8118 above that but i don't see another reference to the "2F0" prefix until about 200000. So i will assume my engine is a 79?
Also with reference from the tech section believe the chain tensioner i have is style "d"
Some additional history that my be relevant, i removed the heads and jugs, inspected the rings, checked the bores, checked the valve guides, and lapped the valves. I replaced the front cam chain guide and assembled the engine. While still on the bench i adjusted the cam chain tensioner so pin was flush, and set the valves.
This morning i fired the engine up and got it warm, put a timing light on it and got that pretty close. While doing that i noticed some top end noise but to be honest i don't have much xp with these engines so i don't know whats normal. I decided to go through the cam tensioner adjustment again and check the valve lash and this leads me to my question as i am aware if the cam chain isn't adjusted properly you wont be able to set the valves correctly.
I adjusted the tensioner bold as shown below.
when i turn the engine over there is one point during the rotation the pin pops out as shown below
Also you will notice there is not many threads still showing to put the acorn nut on.
First question that i didnt really understand from the how to video in the tech forum. Is the pin supposed to move in but adjust the bolt so the pin doesn't pop out past flush? I i tried to loosen but it didn't seem to help. i took the bolt all the way out and noticed there wasn't a washer between the spring and the adjuster bolt. see below.
I know know some of the tensioner styles had a washer here but i cant find a exact reference to the style "D" tensioner.
bottom line, if anyone can give me some feedback as to any of the assumptions above if they are correct and some clarification to the adjustment and part I may be missing. I would appreciate it very much
I did find one reference to a damper part number 341-12232-01-00 but it seems it wasn't available and it wasn't clear if i was looking at the correct parts list.