clutch cush spring questions

TX650A Van Islander

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I added this onto another thread initially, but thought it best to start a new one. I recently replaced the clutch on my '74 TX650A. The bike was new to me last summer, the clutch seemed ok but the bike smoked like crazy. I rebuilt the top end over the winter, but didn't touch the clutch. After only a few hundred miles this summer, the clutch was really loud and thrashy sounding under acceleration, so took it apart to find at least 3 steel plates warped. I also found that the main nut holding the entire basket on was not properly torqued down and was too loose. The basket was somewhat wobbly. I had not checked this torque. :-(
In neutral, the engine sounds great - no thrashy bad sounds.
I replaced the steel plates (6) and friction plates (7) and installed new needle bearing and thrust washer. When I replaced the clutch I noticed the gouging shown in the picture. The new clutch worked great but still a ticking sound under acceleration, but much less obvious. I rode it about 100 miles and took it apart again to confirm that the gouging hasn't gotten worse - but still have some filings in the oil. :-( I thought they were aluminum but a magnet picks them up.
The cush springs are all loose and rotate in place but all intact - 3 are thick and 3 are thin. The gouging is right in line with the cush springs.
TwoManyXS1Bs suggested I check the basket's inner brass bushing - it is confirmed 0.002 between steel bushing and brass bushing. All washers are the correct thickness and in the correct order. I haven't done the basket spin test yet, just because I wanted to ask the question about the cush springs first. The gears line up well.
What do you guys think about these cush springs? Could they be the source of the ticking sound under acceleration and is it best for these not to rotate?
 

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I added this onto another thread initially, but thought it best to start a new one. I recently replaced the clutch on my '74 TX650A. The bike was new to me last summer, the clutch seemed ok but the bike smoked like crazy. I rebuilt the top end over the winter, but didn't touch the clutch. After only a few hundred miles this summer, the clutch was really loud and thrashy sounding under acceleration, so took it apart to find at least 3 steel plates warped. I also found that the main nut holding the entire basket on was not properly torqued down and was too loose. The basket was somewhat wobbly. I had not checked this torque. :-(
In neutral, the engine sounds great - no thrashy bad sounds.
I replaced the steel plates (6) and friction plates (7) and installed new needle bearing and thrust washer. When I replaced the clutch I noticed the gouging shown in the picture. The new clutch worked great but still a ticking sound under acceleration, but much less obvious. I rode it about 100 miles and took it apart again to confirm that the gouging hasn't gotten worse - but still have some filings in the oil. :-( I thought they were aluminum but a magnet picks them up.
The cush springs are all loose and rotate in place but all intact - 3 are thick and 3 are thin. The gouging is right in line with the cush springs.
TwoManyXS1Bs suggested I check the basket's inner brass bushing - it is confirmed 0.002 between steel bushing and brass bushing. All washers are the correct thickness and in the correct order. I haven't done the basket spin test yet, just because I wanted to ask the question about the cush springs first. The gears line up well.
What do you guys think about these cush springs? Could they be the source of the ticking sound under acceleration and is it best for these not to rotate?
I know this is a bit late Van Islander, but They could definitely make a little noise if they are loose. Not sure it would be enough to hear over a running motor though. I’d guess it’s something else. I would definitely change those springs as they are not taking up any of the initial torque of gear changes. My cush springs were all the same dimensions, tensions etc not thicker and thinner, but my motor is a 77/78.
As it is 2 years later what set of springs did you use to replace the originals? Have you noticed a difference in clutch and gear change operation? And what about the ticking sound, did you ever figure that out?
 
Hi Paj. I ended up doing some more work and replaced those springs. I'll have to find the thread and post the link.
1000003586.jpg

As you can see this is the XS performance springs. A bit larger in diameter and quite tight in the retainer plate. I was thinking about changing them out again to the heiden springs I have, but I'm going to Walk away from this for a few days a think that over. The heiden springs are the same length as the xs so I'm not sure they'd look or function any differently. Would be nice to hear what folks are using and if they function any differently. I know the gear plate with the spacers inserted only has about 1/4" of space to move one way or the other which is 6.35mm. I'm measuring with these springs about 1.20mm between each ring on the springs so I'm averaging 5.5 mm of compression length. They'd likely bottom out or that's what I'm thinking.
 
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