Clutch worm gear with shorter cable

xs650newb

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Hey everyone,

I replaced my stock handlebars with drag bars from TCBros quite a while ago. Since then I have been using my original clutch cable with a clever routing to help deal with the excessive length of the stock cable.

For safety reasons I decided it is time to purchase a shorter cable and I did so through 650central. I have heard something about having to cut the spring inside associate with the worm gear assembly in order to get better leverage. Did I completely imagine this or do I need to do something special when installing the new cable.

Best,
Adam
 
The length of the cable has no effect on how the clutch leverage works. The actual mechanical advantage is determined by the clutch lever design, and by the length of the operating arm on the worm gear.

These clutches have just the bare minimum amount of plate separation. It makes it hard to find neutral on some bikes. I drilled a second hole (closer to the centre) on my worm gear operating arm, in order to have the pushrod give more plate separation. I find this works better for me.
 

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Thanks rg. If I am understanding you correctly you decreased the mechanical advantage on the worm gear arm by moving the place where the cable connects closer to the center. This makes pulling the cable slightly harder BUT it is easier to find neutral because everything is less sensitive?

Best,
Adam
 
I redrilled mine the way retiredgentleman did and it made the clutch pull very stiff, but then I am also running the stiff springs from MikesXS. When I get a few extra minutes and an extra worm assembly I'm going to cut/weld one to put the hole halfway between the two positions, see how that works.
 
Thanks rg. If I am understanding you correctly you decreased the mechanical advantage on the worm gear arm by moving the place where the cable connects closer to the center. This makes pulling the cable slightly harder BUT it is easier to find neutral because everything is less sensitive?

Best,
Adam

Yes, I decreased the mechanical advantage to get more separation of the clutch plates. I have stock springs in my clutch, which work just fine. Stiffer springs might make the lever pull too difficult?? I like the feel of the harder lever pull, and I like the way the clutch engages/disengages, as it seems more positive.

And for those who are wondering................no, I don't put the bike in neutral to rest my hand while sitting at stop lights. My bike is kept in first gear at intersections/stop lights, as I consider that a good safety practice, and I have always done that.
 
Yes, I decreased the mechanical advantage to get more separation of the clutch plates. I have stock springs in my clutch, which work just fine. Stiffer springs might make the lever pull too difficult?? I like the feel of the harder lever pull, and I like the way the clutch engages/disengages, as it seems more positive.

And for those who are wondering................no, I don't put the bike in neutral to rest my hand while sitting at stop lights. My bike is kept in first gear at intersections/stop lights, as I consider that a good safety practice, and I have always done that.

Wow , you must have fore arms like PoP Eye . From one that does not endulge in spinach I have lenghtened my worm gear arm , and can now operate my lever with 2 fingers . And yes , I have to admit I have rested them on ocasions .
 
Mike's sells a worm gear set up with two holes in the arm. Mine was broke and when I installed Mike's new worm I tried it in both holes.
The stock springs are I think a 45 or 50 lb spring, I have 70 lb springs. The effort to pull the clutch is about the same in either arm hole.
I can pull and hold it with two fingers, I'm not Popeye either.
I use the hole closest to the center to get as much pressure plate movement as possible. The ease of finding neutral and better shifting are well worth the extra effort.
Keeping the worm and cable well lubed is very important for smooth and easy clutch lever action. More so than which hole you use.
Leo
 
Mike's sells a worm gear set up with two holes in the arm. Mine was broke and when I installed Mike's new worm I tried it in both holes.
The stock springs are I think a 45 or 50 lb spring, I have 70 lb springs. The effort to pull the clutch is about the same in either arm hole.
I can pull and hold it with two fingers, I'm not Popeye either.
I use the hole closest to the center to get as much pressure plate movement as possible. The ease of finding neutral and better shifting are well worth the extra effort.
Keeping the worm and cable well lubed is very important for smooth and easy clutch lever action. More so than which hole you use.
Leo
So if it is lubed up, it doesn't matter which hole you stick it in. Got it.:laugh:
 
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