Easy caliper install. What about this idea.

[CalsXS2]

I'm tired of fitting these calipers. Brake pads and shims keep falling out. Caliper gets all scratched up. You guys know the drill. And it will be really tough on a dual brake system. I've read about guys making spacers, or what ever method they come up with.

So I was thinking of different ways to do it. Come up with several ideas. Then my machinist buddy suggested why not just cut the small end off of the stud that holds the caliper together. Then drill and tap the remaining newly made bolt for a standard caliper mounting bolt.

That sounds like a good idea. But I do have one concern. He would be tapping a 12mm bolt for a 10mm thread. That's not a whole lot of meat left. But does it really mater. The bottom bolt will be holding it, and the top will too. I'm just concerned that when I tighten down the drilled out bolt, from being so thin it may twist off. Or even when I install the other bolt. There will be roughly 1/2'' of new threads cut into the bolt.

I guess there's only one way to find out. All I have to loose is a bolt that's thrashed out anyway.
What do you guys think. Think it will work.

 

[Royboy]

Maybe the early calipers are more of an issue. I've never had a problem with things falling apart in my hands, (except of course, when I've tried to adjust the points on the side of the road).

roy

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Tapping a 10mm thread into a 12mm threaded bolt? That'll only work if the thread pitches match, and synchronized, like a heli-coil.

Just change the gravitational constant of the universe...

 

[CalsXS2]

Tapping a 10mm thread into a 12mm threaded bolt? That'll only work if the thread pitches match, and synchronized, like a heli-coil.

Just change the gravitational constant of the universe...

I think maybe you misunderstood me. Or I'm misunderstanding you.
He's basically going to take a 12mm bolt and drill a hole 3/8''deep down through the head of it. Then tap that hole for the 10mm bolt. There should be 1mm left all the way around. But I think that might be too thin and break off. I don't know. Just an experiment at this time.

Why would the thread pitch have anything to do with it.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Oh, OK, I thought you were considering drilling/tapping in a threaded portion.

What you're describing, then, will work. But I wouldn't want shear forces at the thread interface...

 

[chizler62]

I've never build with these calipers only with drum brakes or other calipers. Explain what happens? That acorn stud doesn't go deep enough to tighten?
I'd imagine just threading a new stud would be easier. You'll most likely not have a true 1mm on either side. Especially if it's not done on a lathe.

 

[XSLeo]

On those early calipers One top bolt that holds the two halves together has a shoulder and an extension that's threaded. This extra long bolt hold the caliper to the fork. This long bolt goes through from the inside out.
I wouldn't mess with it. It's not like you are changing the pads every week.
Leo

 

[rbjenterprises]

This is my winters project also. These timeserts got me thinking.

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

 

[rbjenterprises]

Another idea I had was enlarge the hole in the fork then use a bolt and spacer.

 

[gggGary]

I did at least one of these on a 73 don't recall an issue putting it all back together. But isn't there something about the 72 caliper that's a little different? a stud and a bolt where the later ones use two bolts?

 

[5twins]

The only similar caliper I've dealt with was one on an RD350. I had no problems with it that I recall. The lack of anti-seize on your threaded parts just makes me shake my head. You guys are brutal, lol. That thread galling and stripping may have very well been prevented.

 

[CalsXS2]

The only similar caliper I've dealt with was one on an RD350. I had no problems with it that I recall. The lack of anti-seize on your threaded parts just makes me shake my head. You guys are brutal, lol. That thread galling and stripping may have very well been prevented.

Just so you know. I didn't do that to the thread. That was a PO's doing. That came to me like that.

Speaking of anti-seize. On the wheels I just laced, I took every nipple out one at a time and applied anti-seize to the spoke thread. Per your suggestion.

 

[5twins]

Very good then. That's the 1st thing I do when I get a new set of spokes. More than once I've gotten a few bad spokes in a set. The threads were formed wrong and the nipple wouldn't screw on. Since many of my spoke sets sit on the shelf for months before I use them, it's best I discover any bad ones immediately upon receipt of the set so exchange arrangements can be made if need be. It seems Mike's is including 40 spokes per set now so a bad one or two can be ignored.

I've been using anti-seize on most of the nuts, bolts, and screws on all my bikes, cars, trucks, even my lawn mower and snow blower, for nearly 40 years now. It amazes me the number of people who know nothing about this stuff and its benefits. I never assemble anything dry.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Yes I'm with 5twins, on using anti-seize for threads, with one exception. I like to install spark plugs dry, as it allows me to feel the thread engagement as I turn them in with my fingers. This prevents any chance of cross-threading.

Any of the tiny threads smaller than 6 mm. I usually use blue lock-tite, instead of anti-seize. The tiny threads tend to vibrate lose, but the larger threads don't, if torqued correctly.

 

[5twins]

Yes, I forgot about the spark plugs. That is one of the few spots I use nothing. I tried it many years ago but didn't like the results. It gummed the threads up too much.

 

[gggGary]

just to make sure this thread is completely off topic, I respectfully offer the opposing opinion and add a tiny dab of anti seize to spark plug threads. I keep a bottle of copper and standard anti-seize at my benches. I easily hand thread them in and out, haven;t noticed an issue even when tuning requires a lot of checking.... Sure wish Mercedes had used some on the glow plugs in my sprinter engine. Sprinter owners live in fear of dead glow plugs. head removal is an all too common result of busted off stuck glow plugs in that engine. I changed one of 5 so far and it was a scary day with galled threads and a fight all the way out. A couple more are bad but I just deal with it and use the aux heater before starting in real cold weather.

Slight relevance; when you do get that hard to remove thread, STOP! lube, re-tighten a bit, loosen until it starts to bind, repeat. The retightening helps smooth the galled thread so metal doesn't bunch up and tear out gobs of aluminum on the way out. This really works, and will save you tons of grief.
We are lucky that stripped aluminum threads are fairly rare on the XS. Some engine designs have some real stinkers, especially near exhaust ports. Removing trailer balls in the great white north is always an exercise in frustration.

 

[CalsXS2]

OK. To get back on topic.....Hmmm Hmmm. But I promise to put anti seize on it.

I have the finished product.

Here's your standard early style caliper mounting bolts. This picture also shows how deep in the stud the bolt will now be.

Some people have problems getting the caliper on because of this double ended top stud.

Here is the small end of the stud removed. It has been drilled and tapped for the other type of mounting bolt.

Might be hard to see here. But I clamped an extra bolt in a vice with all my might. I then tried to twist the head off with a 1/2'' drive ratchet. I applied more torque than will ever be put on that newly made bolt. The head held just fine. But I did damage the shoulder of the bolt by twisting it in the vise. I also damaged the threads by clamping them so tight in the vise. Sacrifices has to be made. But I had to make sure the bolt head would hold. And it did I'm pleased to say.

Now I know that a lot of you have had no such problems. Well then this isn't for you. I know I fought mine like a S.O.B. And so has many others with the early style caliper. This is just what I did.

 

[racerdave]

just to make sure this thread is completely off topic, I respectfully offer the opposing opinion and add a tiny dab of anti seize to spark plug threads. I keep a bottle of copper and standard anti-seize at my benches. I easily hand thread them in and out, haven;t noticed an issue even when tuning requires a lot of checking.... Sure wish Mercedes had used some on the glow plugs in my sprinter engine. Sprinter owners live in fear of dead glow plugs. head removal is an all too common result of busted off stuck glow plugs in that engine. I changed one of 5 so far and it was a scary day with galled threads and a fight all the way out. A couple more are bad but I just deal with it and use the aux heater before starting in real cold weather.

Slight relevance; when you do get that hard to remove thread, STOP! lube, re-tighten a bit, loosen until it starts to bind, repeat. The retightening helps smooth the galled thread so metal doesn't bunch up and tear out gobs of aluminum on the way out. This really works, and will save you tons of grief.
We are lucky that stripped aluminum threads are fairly rare on the XS. Some engine designs have some real stinkers, especially near exhaust ports. Removing trailer balls in the great white north is always an exercise in frustration.

As long as we are off topic, my plumber told me the transmissions on those sprinters are a extremely costly repair also.

 

[rbjenterprises]

Great solution! Now I just need to buy two acorn bolts.

 

[CalsXS2]

Great solution! Now I just need to buy two acorn bolts.

And be able to drill a hole EXACTLY in the center of the other bolt. I had my machinist buddy do mine. Otherwise I probably would have went a different route.