Fork caps

JAGUARGOD

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Just lowered my forks with Hugh's kit Anybody have trouble getting the caps to thread in after taking apart?? Dont think I messed up the threads. Just a weakness on my part?? Its hard to hold down and turn at the same time.
feeling dumb! Thanks in advance for any help! Kev
 
Its a pain in stock form. Every time i do it I'm afraid to cross thread it.
Look really closely were the ends of the threads are, cap and fork, line them up, and give it all you got. Dont crap yourself
 
Zactly! Fraid to cross thread! Pushed with all my might and turned ...no work. i like to ask before i ruin something. Especially expensive parts. I get frustrated and in a hurry.

thanks for the reply Angus!
 
You need a 3/8" drive T handle. Everyone who owns a motorcycle should have one of these. It turns your whole socket set into T handles. It is my "go to" tool for fork cap removal and install. It allows you to easily push down as you turn. You want to be able to do this during both install AND removal. When the cap comes out, spring pressure will send it flying if you're not pushing down on it. Also, you run the risk of stripping the first couple threads on the cap if you let the spring force it out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drive-3-8in...c9748d1&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=282050313775
 
Take the spring out. Carefully screw the cap in a couple of turns. Now, unscrew while lifting up on the cap. Mark the point where the cap lifts free with a sharpie mark on the tube and cap. Re-test a couple of times until you are confident you know where the thread starts to engage. Put the spring back in. Now, do the t-handle thing, or if you don't have a t-handle do what I do: use your palm on a large (1/2" drive) socket that fits the cap, this allows you to push straight down with enough force to start it. Line up the sharpie marks and go.
 
Take the spring out. Carefully screw the cap in a couple of turns. Now, unscrew while lifting up on the cap. Mark the point where the cap lifts free with a sharpie mark on the tube and cap. Re-test a couple of times until you are confident you know where the thread starts to engage. Put the spring back in. Now, do the t-handle thing, or if you don't have a t-handle do what I do: use your palm on a large (1/2" drive) socket that fits the cap, this allows you to push straight down with enough force to start it. Line up the sharpie marks and go.

That's the way. Mindless turning can burnish those threads so they won't even have an entry point any more.

Scott
 
Bought the "T" handle...sure make thta job easier!! Would be happier if I hadnt left out the spacer in the left fork. Found it on my stool afterward. Dammit!

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Dont eat the spacer....then u wont find it in your stool.
Gonna have to try the t next time
 
You won't regret that 3/8" drive T handle purchase. You'll end up using it all the time. It's great for quickly spinning nuts and bolts in and out after initially breaking them loose with a regular ratchet or wrench. Do take care on M6 and smaller fasteners. These T handles generate much more torque than you realize and you can easily strip the small fasteners. Spin them in snug with the T handle but final tighten with a torque wrench.
 
Now thats funny! Thought about it after posting! Thanks for the laugh Angus!
5twins...I bought a 1/2 inch drive with adaptors...1/4 and 3/8....keeping in mind what you said...In my old age I have become a disastor waiting to happen. ha ha...thanks again all!
 
When i take side cover bolts out with a t handle hex, i spin it the rest of the way out. That t you posted looks like the handles are longer than average t handle hex drivers. I just snug em down never leaks, but it doesnt take much longer handles to go overboard
 
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