Hi this is my first post I am about to convert a1980 US spec custom xs650 into a cafe racer spec bike not putting clip on bars on will probably settle for something a little high higher flat superbike bars I think question is will I need to lower the front
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Fork lowering
- Thread starter tmxyam
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- fork lowering
I believe I read somewhere that custom and standards have the same fork. On my -77 standard, the fork actually looks long. The fork travel is 150 mm or 6". Modern sportbikes mostly have 120 mm fork travel. So an easy way to lower a fork is to disassemble it, and put longer/stiffer top out springs in. I definitely would prefer using springs in stead of spacers for this. Whichever you prefer, a 30 mm long spring or spacer on the damper rod, before it goes back in the upper leg, will shorten the travel and the fork by 30 mm.
If you do this, you will want to increase oil level, oil viscosity or compression damping, or a combination af all.
If you do this, you will want to increase oil level, oil viscosity or compression damping, or a combination af all.
Not really necessary but depends on the look and riding position you are after. You can always build it up and then see what you think. If you need to quicken the steering you can always drop the yokes down the forks a few mm.
My '79 special cafe rides fine with the stock set up; I'm running adjustable bars so can play with the riding position.
I understand that cafes are 'in' at the moment. Must be 'cos they are as cool (cooler?) than chop/bobber and they go round corners
My '79 special cafe rides fine with the stock set up; I'm running adjustable bars so can play with the riding position.
I understand that cafes are 'in' at the moment. Must be 'cos they are as cool (cooler?) than chop/bobber and they go round corners
Terry - I made my own from the back end of a Suzuki fuel tank and some aluminium sheet for the base. Don't know where you can get a 'bolt on' in the UK but they were at one time available from Mikes XS or xs650 shop.de in Germany; I think there was at least one other European supplier as well. Not cheap though.
Mine was originally the side hinge type, but yours is presumably the type that clips in from the top.
If you're keeping the side covers you may get away with modifying a stock seat, but if you're losing the covers a narrower seat base may look better.
Good luck with it.
Mine was originally the side hinge type, but yours is presumably the type that clips in from the top.
If you're keeping the side covers you may get away with modifying a stock seat, but if you're losing the covers a narrower seat base may look better.
Good luck with it.
Euro bars are much like a superbike bar, about the same rise, but they droop down a bit more on the ends which makes them more comfortable. This "droop" turns your wrists slightly to a more natural angle. Here's a set on my 650 .....
..... and another on my SR500 .....
I drop my forks 1/4" to 3/8" in the trees. Much more than that and you run the risk of the lowers hitting the lower triple tree on full compression. I wouldn't lower them by internal means. You lose travel that way.
..... and another on my SR500 .....
I drop my forks 1/4" to 3/8" in the trees. Much more than that and you run the risk of the lowers hitting the lower triple tree on full compression. I wouldn't lower them by internal means. You lose travel that way.
Terry,
I am a bit confused about what you want to achieve. There are no hard rules regarding fork or shock length for any type of bike. Often will there be a conflict between a certain look and handling/comfort/ergonomics. There will always be some compromise involved.
Personally, I try to put priority on ergonomics and handling for my type of riding.
That is why I want the footpegs between the original footpeg mount studs. Handlebar type and position depend on footpeg position and vice versa.
For me, this footpeg location puts the pegs immediately my bodys centre of gravity, enhancing bike control. Then I choose a handlebar that makes me lean into the wind slightly, resulting in effortless cruising between 90 and 110 kmh.
A full on "cafe" setup with extremely rearset pegs (like TcBros) and clip-ons is really uncomfortable for any riding except really hard, aggressive riding. There are better bikes than XSes for that.
If you lower the front by sliding the forks up in the triple trees, make sure the fork does not bottom out on the dust seals. There is not much clearance left there. I suggest you remove the fork caps, and compress your forks completely to check this.
Depending on your front tyre size, front mudguard and exhaust pipe routing, you may have clearance issues in that area too.
I am a bit confused about what you want to achieve. There are no hard rules regarding fork or shock length for any type of bike. Often will there be a conflict between a certain look and handling/comfort/ergonomics. There will always be some compromise involved.
Personally, I try to put priority on ergonomics and handling for my type of riding.
That is why I want the footpegs between the original footpeg mount studs. Handlebar type and position depend on footpeg position and vice versa.
For me, this footpeg location puts the pegs immediately my bodys centre of gravity, enhancing bike control. Then I choose a handlebar that makes me lean into the wind slightly, resulting in effortless cruising between 90 and 110 kmh.
A full on "cafe" setup with extremely rearset pegs (like TcBros) and clip-ons is really uncomfortable for any riding except really hard, aggressive riding. There are better bikes than XSes for that.
If you lower the front by sliding the forks up in the triple trees, make sure the fork does not bottom out on the dust seals. There is not much clearance left there. I suggest you remove the fork caps, and compress your forks completely to check this.
Depending on your front tyre size, front mudguard and exhaust pipe routing, you may have clearance issues in that area too.
Thanks for the pics 5 twins think i will go with that type of bar.
Artics XS thanks for the advice i guess i got it in my head that because tha bike is the custom with the higher bars then the forks must be longer and would need lowering i am not after a full cafe set up for all the reasons you have stated , comfort , ease of riding etc .
so i think the bars recommended by 5 twins and leave the footpegs where they are will be a good start point
Regards
TM
Artics XS thanks for the advice i guess i got it in my head that because tha bike is the custom with the higher bars then the forks must be longer and would need lowering i am not after a full cafe set up for all the reasons you have stated , comfort , ease of riding etc .
so i think the bars recommended by 5 twins and leave the footpegs where they are will be a good start point
Regards
TM
