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Fork oil
- Thread starter Dom
- Start date
Found here: https://www.xs650.com/threads/forking-around-with-lucille.49710/post-511896
the slot in the end of the damper rod holding tool is 10.2 mm wide x 10 mm deep.
More details here: https://www.xs650.com/threads/forking-around-with-lucille.49710/post-511907
the slot in the end of the damper rod holding tool is 10.2 mm wide x 10 mm deep.
More details here: https://www.xs650.com/threads/forking-around-with-lucille.49710/post-511907
I found the Minton Mods in 650Central. http://www.650central.com/
fred nurk
XS650 Enthusiast
i put hydraulic oil in my xs2 forks . 230mil . or 230cc in each side
The hole at the top is 2mm
When I built my XS2, just as an experiment, I used inexpensive hydraulic oil from Walmart. Compared to the forks I rebuilt on my ‘77D, which had much lighter conventional Belray fork oil, I could tell no difference in feel or operation. For what it’s worth.
Yes, those may have been drilled already. If you do enlarge them more, I wouldn't go any bigger than the 1/4" (6.35mm) that Minton recommends. Minton calls for 2 holes using a #45 drill bit at the top ......
There is one slightly smaller hole there already and you enlarge it slightly with the #45 bit then continue drilling through, out the other side, to create a second hole. The #45 drill bit (.0820") is a hair over 2mm (2.08mm) so I suppose you could drill through and create your second hole using a 2mm bit.
There is one slightly smaller hole there already and you enlarge it slightly with the #45 bit then continue drilling through, out the other side, to create a second hole. The #45 drill bit (.0820") is a hair over 2mm (2.08mm) so I suppose you could drill through and create your second hole using a 2mm bit.
The top smaller hole is only through one wall, should I go right through the other side?
The larger holes appear very much factory to me.
EDIT, sorry just re-read the 5T.
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Yes, go in through the existing hole and using it as a "guide", continue drilling out the other side. That will give you 2 holes directly opposite one another. Then, if you like, using a slightly larger bit, you can bevel the entrance to each hole slightly. This will make them flow better .....
The factory beveled the holes on the '77 damper rods, and I now do it to any I "Minton Mod". I see your bottom holes already have a slight bevel but the way it's so slight makes me think they might have been enlarged. Here's the beveled bottom holes and you can see the bevel goes all the way around .....
The factory beveled the holes on the '77 damper rods, and I now do it to any I "Minton Mod". I see your bottom holes already have a slight bevel but the way it's so slight makes me think they might have been enlarged. Here's the beveled bottom holes and you can see the bevel goes all the way around .....
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I went for it! I have drilled the top hole out to 2mm and gone right through, it was previously a fraction under 2mm but more than 1.5mm.
The four bottom holes were more than 5.5mm but less than 6mm so again I stuck my neck out and drilled them out to 6mm and countersunk all holes as @5twins suggested. The placement of the lower holes on the one damper rod were drilled by a blind Japanese man, they were far from evenly spaced.
Just to decide on oil level of the 10w oil I intend putting in now, I think I will start with 150mm from top without springs. My slight hesitation is that the PO replaced the standard springs with progressive springs that are slightly longer than the originals and spacers combined. Will the original springs and spacers be stiffer/better?
The four bottom holes were more than 5.5mm but less than 6mm so again I stuck my neck out and drilled them out to 6mm and countersunk all holes as @5twins suggested. The placement of the lower holes on the one damper rod were drilled by a blind Japanese man, they were far from evenly spaced.
Just to decide on oil level of the 10w oil I intend putting in now, I think I will start with 150mm from top without springs. My slight hesitation is that the PO replaced the standard springs with progressive springs that are slightly longer than the originals and spacers combined. Will the original springs and spacers be stiffer/better?
Just remember, that fork oil level spec is with the springs out AND the forks fully compressed. Don't fill them to that level with them fully extended, that would be way too much oil in there.
Do you have the original springs and are they progressive? The stock springs on the 35mm forks are but unfortunately after all these years, many have gone soft. But adding about a 3/4" preload spacer fixes them right up. If you do switch back to the stock springs, you may need to make up a slightly longer preload spacer as well. I wouldn't make it more than an inch longer than the original though. I started out with added 1" spacers but they proved to be a bit too stiff so I shortened them to just under 3/4" (13/16"). They're pretty much just right now.
Do you have the original springs and are they progressive? The stock springs on the 35mm forks are but unfortunately after all these years, many have gone soft. But adding about a 3/4" preload spacer fixes them right up. If you do switch back to the stock springs, you may need to make up a slightly longer preload spacer as well. I wouldn't make it more than an inch longer than the original though. I started out with added 1" spacers but they proved to be a bit too stiff so I shortened them to just under 3/4" (13/16"). They're pretty much just right now.
The original springs aren't progressive but much shorter, I can't decide which to use now as the progressives length and lack of spacer is surely what has caused the spongey front end....well that and the fact the one fork leg had leaked nearly 1/2 it's oil out.
Yep, compressed, no spring. Its a while now but I rebuilt my SV650 forks with emulators so had some recollection of oil volume measurements.
