Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Capslocker, May 7, 2021.
Heiden has as it seems different --- please check the container
if it is mineral oil or part synthetic or full synthetic oil
Engine Oil Castrol Actevo 4T 20W50 in text which appears to be semi synthetic
But on Picture is Castrol RS which can be full synthetic oil ( have not checked )
It's the Castrol power RS Power Sustain technology 20w50. It is not mentioned anywhere if it's full or semi or mineral. I can only see
SAE 20w-50; JASO MA-2 (T903:2016); API SN
Seems to be semi synthetic.... No good then? What do you recommend?
Yesterday I saw this in a Magazine about Yamaha Vmax
I cannot say for sure that the oil is the dominant Factor .But I use Mineral only .
The XS650 was designed at a time when these modern Oils did not Exist .. And I have over the years met many that has bought the latest " Snake Oil " Additive
and made a mistake myself with a to aggressive starter Fluid Ruining seals in a Auto Carburetor.
Jetmech Marty has a slipping clutch and I gave the advice to wait a while as Myself do --- :believe it will improve.
Does not sound so at this point in time.
If this was me in your case I would readjust the Clutch ---- but since it is hard to find neutral already .. it most likely is set tight already .
I do this having the rear wheel, in the air on center stand and trying to stop the wheel clutch in at first gear and adjust till this is OK.
If this is a Rebuild an Oil change is Coming rather soon. And then I would try another Oil
As a first step.
There is a possibility this oil was not the Best Choice. But i cant be certain
But the rationale is to use only the Fluids that existed then .And the designer then had a fair chance to test
(But the 20 W -50 is right although not exactly to spec if remember right ..but there are other considerations involved as engine wear )
what happens when you loosen that clutch up a little bit?
still just spin in 4/5?
Synthetic or not, that JASO MA designation means that the oil is compatible with wet clutches. But when there's a big change in the composition of the oil used, clutch slip often results. Try this. Remove the clutch plates and clean them with solvent (brake cleaner works, but I like naphtha lighter fluid as a less toxic option). Then tape some 320 grit garnet paper (that's sand paper with real sand on it) to a piece of plate glass and deglaze the plates, moving them on the sandpaper in a figure 8. Don't use wet-or-dry or any other aluminum oxide or synthetic grit; they can leave deposits in the friction plates. Finally, soak plates overnight in the new oil.
Opened up the clutch again. 2 issues: 2 plates are +- 2.7mm. So that's not good. The other issue is one broken damper cush spring. Ordered new High performance 7 plate clutch set + cush springs.
Question: is it neccesary to soak the plates in oil overnight prior to installation?
Be aware that there exists I believe 3 different Clutch setups differing on a couple of things
Dont remember it right now but the number of plates and special pressure plate on some year model.
So there are at times different thickness on some Plates cant remember exactly which ones but please look in a
Schematic online for your year model .
And plates must go in in the right order
So when ordering a set or used clutch parts .One needs to pay attention that the parts are corresponding
Soaking was recommended on the few clutch plates i have Replaced
Cant see any major reason not do it ..Taking a night off watching TV instead or so
Separate names with a comma.