Front / rear brake light switch

[AdamX]

I'm needing to replace the front brake light switch and am not seeing how that comes off the bike. Can anyone point me to an existing link? ('77 standard XS)

Also, this bike does not have a rear brake light switch installed (or I'm not seeing it). Same question as above.

Thanks
Adam

 

[weekendrider]

For the front, on the bottom of the perch is a hole. Stick a small diameter something in the hole to release the clip.
The rear switch is usually mounted to a slotted tab about eight(?) inchs behind the brake pedal.
I can't remember a switch front or back going bad. It has always been a matter of a broken wire for me.

 

[xjwmx]

My front switch would stick sometimes. I eventually lubed the plunger good with gun oil I think and it fixed it. Don't use WD for that; after it dries fully it becomes a sticky film -- which is good for some things, but not this.

 

[5twins]

Rear brake light switch .....

I've fixed non-functioning ones by simply taking them apart and cleaning them. They can get all corroded inside and then they don't work anymore.

 

[Paul Sutton]

Xjwmx, interesting comment on WD40! I had a big can of it I inherited from an old relative. Probably 40 years old (WD40 not the relative). I was using it to wipe over my chrome work for winter storage. After a couple of weeks there would be no residue left on the chrome so I would wipe some more on. The can finally ran out last October. The new stuff leaves a thick residue and it burns onto the exhaust pipes and makes them look dull so I have had to stop using it except on the cold chrome parts.

 

[AdamX]

I've replaced 98% of the wiring on this bike as it was toast. I'm leaning toward the front brake light switch as the mastercylinder had been leaking for who knows how long. And for $7, why not, let's make it 99% replaced. Thank you for you photo of the rear switch. That will help out a lot as it was missing on my bike.
-Adam

 

[xjwmx]

Xjwmx, interesting comment on WD40!

One time I was reading about various lubricants and kept coming up with WD = sticky film. I took my bike to get a spare key made and the locksmith didn't like the way it fit and squirted WD in the lock before I could stop it. The following winter -- he might as well have squirted glue. I visited my 90+ uncle who brought out my grandfather's shotgun which I'd heard about, and some oils, including WD. In my excitement I just took the gun and lubed it with WD. Afterwards when I was thinking again I told him it would probably stick the gun up and he looked pretty disappointed When I was putting on a new foot peg there was rust on the metal part and I needed a lube to slide the rubber on with so I used WD. It was a good choice there; I want a sticky film protecting the metal. A coupe of good light oils are Breakfree and Rem Oil. Rem is extremely watery. A good grease for similar kinds of applications is Magnalube. I have used that to make computer fans as good as new.

 

[AdamX]

Rear switch installed. Front switch replaced. I now have brake lights. Thanks all!

 

[devildrums]

Rear brake light switch .....

I've fixed non-functioning ones by simply taking them apart and cleaning them. They can get all corroded inside and then they don't work anymore.

I am doing a rewire on mine and adding this switch, and of course both wires are black and not labeled. Does it matter which one is power in and signal out? They at least came with one male and one female end. Thanks in advance.

 

[gggGary]

Doesn't matter to how it works but wiring convention is to avoid having +12 on a male connector when opened, so male in, female out is good practice. ie correct.

 

[Superdriver]

Rear brake light switch .....

I've fixed non-functioning ones by simply taking them apart and cleaning them. They can get all corroded inside and then they don't work anymore.

to adjust the switch to make it more sensitive when peddle is pushed, would you back off the large nut closest to the spring and then turn the smaller nut counterclockwise. thanks. Bill

 

[Superdriver]

Rear brake light switch .....

I've fixed non-functioning ones by simply taking them apart and cleaning them. They can get all corroded inside and then they don't work anymore.

What would you recommend to clean the switch internals. thanks. Bill

 

[Raymond]

to adjust the switch to make it more sensitive when peddle is pushed, would you back off the large nut closest to the spring and then turn the smaller nut counterclockwise. thanks. Bill

Yes, that's the correct procedure. You are moving the switch unit back away from the brake so the pull rod is more extended at rest & closer to triggering the switch.

Not sure what to suggest for cleaning the internals but if you have carb cleaner spray some on a cloth and try that - leaves no residue. Or maybe brake cleaner?

 

[Superdriver]

Thank you very much. I will do that. Take care. Bill

 

[Superdriver]

For the front, on the bottom of the perch is a hole. Stick a small diameter something in the hole to release the clip.
The rear switch is usually mounted to a slotted tab about eight(?) inchs behind the brake pedal.
I can't remember a switch front or back going bad. It has always been a matter of a broken wire for me.

Thank you. that was very helpful. Take care. Bill

 

[Superdriver]

For the front, on the bottom of the perch is a hole. Stick a small diameter something in the hole to release the clip.
The rear switch is usually mounted to a slotted tab about eight(?) inchs behind the brake pedal.
I can't remember a switch front or back going bad. It has always been a matter of a broken wire for me.

I'm not sure what switch I have on the front. The two electrical plugs don't go into anything There is a button that goes into a grove in the lever. When the lever is pulled, the button comes out of the housing and when the lever is released, the button is pushed back into the housing. There are obviously connectors in the box but I cannot see any wiring. The brake light does come on when the lever is pulled in. There appears only to be one Philipps screw holding the box in place. I'm not sure who makes the switch but it appears to be marked (HD) Please see pictures Any help Identifying the switch would be appreciated. Thanks. Bill

 

[jpdevol]

Appears to be generic brake switch used on many different aftermarket (esp chinese) master cylinders - if it works, it works....

https://www.amazon.com/Technologies-Universal-Swing-Type-Switch-12-0005/dp/B00230MIZK

 

[Superdriver]

Great, Thank you. It is easy to see how it works. The only thing I don't understand is what the plugs are for as they are not hooked up to anything. I guess the switch contacts for the brake lights are under the box and are part of the master cylinder /lever assembly. I will remove it and take a look LOL. Take care. Bill

 

[jpdevol]

Hmm, maybe post a pic of the rest of the master and also the brake line joint at fork clamp - maybe another switch

 

[Superdriver]

Hmm, maybe post a pic of the rest of the master and also the brake line joint at fork clamp - maybe another switch

Here you are. I found a red Wire leading towards the master cylinder. It was covered and I missed it. I took the switch off the mount (one Philips screw) and there is absolutely no wiring into it. There has to be some sort of power contact in the master cylinder unit. Take care. Bill