Getting my bike started

geeskeet

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Recently bought this bike as a basket case and spent the last few weeks getting miscellaneous parts/ putting it back together. Title says 76, but PO says the motor is an 81.

Since getting it put back together and trying to start it (didn’t start) now I’m trying to troubleshoot but I’m at a loss where to start. It seems I have a pamco ignition, but points on the right side and a stator not a PMA. Carbs are getting fuel, engine has compression, but I’m not sure how to check for spark with this ignition system.

Basically just lookin for general help to identify what exactly I have sitting in my garage, and getting it started. I’ve attached a couple photos for identification purposes in case I’m completely wrong.

Thanks guys!
 

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Welcome.

First thought when you said it had a pamco and points on the right side, was it had a pamco was installed where the advance weights are + a set of points. Some idiot had installed 2 ignition systems????. After seeing the pick I realised you had left and right mixed up

For starters everything on a bike, left and right, is looked at, and classed when you are sitting on the bike. Left and right hand.

Kill switch, start button and light on/off switch is on the right bar switch. Horn, indicator switch and headlight high/ low beam is on the left bar switch.

The pamco has oxidation on the card and the wires look faded. This could, emphasize could, be a problem.

Where you state you have points, is a mechanical advance system that cuts in about 3000 revs. This shouldn't affect the starting or won't affect electrics. What it does need is a dismantle, clean and reassemble. The rust is not good and that to me indicates the water has got inside the cam the advance rod goes through, ( the rod that the advance weight system is bolted to also goes through the cam to the pamco which is also bolted to it), needs to b removed and greased so it revolves freely.

How to trouble shoot the pamco as and test is in here.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/boyer-and-pamco-ignition.46859/

Honestly from the small pic I get on my phone I don't hold much hope for it.

If it is faulty do not replace it with the MikesXS ignitions as they have reliability issues.

Test and get back to us. Some one who is an electrical guru will b able to help.
 
Welcome.

First thought when you said it had a pamco and points on the right side, was it had a pamco was installed where the advance weights are + a set of points. Some idiot had installed 2 ignition systems????. After seeing the pick I realised you had left and right mixed up

For starters everything on a bike, left and right, is looked at, and classed when you are sitting on the bike. Left and right hand.

Kill switch, start button and light on/off switch is on the right bar switch. Horn, indicator switch and headlight high/ low beam is on the left bar switch.

The pamco has oxidation on the card and the wires look faded. This could, emphasize could, be a problem.

Where you state you have points, is a mechanical advance system that cuts in about 3000 revs. This shouldn't affect the starting or won't affect electrics. What it does need is a dismantle, clean and reassemble. The rust is not good and that to me indicates the water has got inside the cam the advance rod goes through, ( the rod that the advance weight system is bolted to also goes through the cam to the pamco which is also bolted to it), needs to b removed and greased so it revolves freely.

How to trouble shoot the pamco as and test is in here.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/boyer-and-pamco-ignition.46859/

Honestly from the small pic I get on my phone I don't hold much hope for it.

If it is faulty do not replace it with the MikesXS ignitions as they have reliability issues.

Test and get back to us. Some one who is an electrical guru will b able to help.
Awesome, I’ll give that a shot. When I got the bike there were no covers for both sides so who knows how long it sat or where it sat.

As far as switches on the bar there is none. The bike is hard tailed and chopped and I rewired basically everything. No electric start, just kick and when I tried to start it nothing happened. Fuel leaked from the the left side carb so I’ll double check the float and make sure it isn’t sticking open.

If nothing happened when I went to start could a faulty pamco result in that?
 
Okay spent some time in the garage this morning messing with the PAMCO. I removed the rotor, removed the locating pin, reinstalled the rotor, removed one spark plug, and spun the rotor.

That resulted in a zap (couldn’t see a spark, just a noise) from the circuit board area of the PAMCO, and a small puff of smoke. I would imagine that’s not where I wanted to see a spark and my ignition is now fried. Which is fine, it was old and faded so I’m sure it needed to be replaced anyway.

Any further spinning of the rotor yielded no results so that’s why I assume it’s fried now. Can these circuit boards be fixed/ replaced separately or should I opt for a whole new ignition?
 
Somewhere I read either in pamco instructions or a member post that you do not light the pamco up with out both plugs connected. to do so will kill it.
 
Somewhere I read either in pamco instructions or a member post that you do not light the pamco up with out both plugs connected. to do so will kill it.
I had both connected, one in the engine and one out and grounded. Unfortunately it might not have been the best ground and I did in fact let the smoke out of my PAMCO.

That’ll give me time to work on cleaning the mechanical advance.

Another question I had is about a thicker wire at the bottom right of the motor. Appears to be the wire for the starter, but I thought I read somewhere the starter was on the left side below the shift shaft? I’ve attached a photo of that wire, it’s on the bottom right side.
 

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Another question I had is about a thicker wire at the bottom right of the motor. Appears to be the wire for the starter, but I thought I read somewhere the starter was on the left side below the shift shaft? I’ve attached a photo of that wire, it’s on the bottom right side.
That wire appears to be connected to the starter motor. I say appears 'coz there's a sharp turn where it might be cracked? If you intend to run kick-only, you could remove the starter motor to save weight.

Oh, and welcome to the madhouse, Geeskeet!
 
That wire appears to be connected to the starter motor. I say appears 'coz there's a sharp turn where it might be cracked? If you intend to run kick-only, you could remove the starter motor to save weight.

Oh, and welcome to the madhouse, Geeskeet!
There is a sharp bend at the connector because it’s tucked up underneath, but that’s what I thought. I’ll just remove it then.

And thank you! I’ve been lurking for a while, finally decided to put myself out there.
 
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