osteoderm
out of the box
What I anticipate as being extremely modest gains in function/performance would be unlikely to offset the expense for most people. But... I'd be happy to be proven wrong!
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What I anticipate as being extremely modest gains in function/performance would be unlikely to offset the expense for most people. But... I'd be happy to be proven wrong!
pregrid
XS650 Guru
We are not fuckin' worthy man!
Possibly see how much interest is out there..get it drawn in CAD & cnc them, same goes for the rear 19" conversion kit. Anything to take some of the load off the clutch springs has to be good.
Then again it's probably easier to make some up & see what interest you get.?
Then again it's probably easier to make some up & see what interest you get.?
bobbyd
XS650 Member
Osteo,
That's very well done, nice work. I'm in the middle of designing something similar with my engineer for my bike but I may wait to see how your setup works out. If you do choose to offer a kit for sale I'd like to express my interest for sure.
Keep up the great work, your bike is certainly built to a high level and I'm a fan.
Cheers,
Alex
That's very well done, nice work. I'm in the middle of designing something similar with my engineer for my bike but I may wait to see how your setup works out. If you do choose to offer a kit for sale I'd like to express my interest for sure.
Keep up the great work, your bike is certainly built to a high level and I'm a fan.
Cheers,
Alex
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
Derm, Derm, Derm. Just more WOW! How much wider overall will that setup be, vs the oem rotor/hub/gear?
osteoderm
out of the box
Just about the same, I suppose. The chainline will be identical. My baseline for comparison isn't the oem rear hub; it is instead a front hub with Omar's 19" conversion kit. The hub in the pictures has been widened 5/8" between flanges. The rotor will get pushed over 5/16", but the sprocket is staying in the same relative position, and the overall width inside the swingarm will be the same.
If you have (or have seen) one of Omar's kits, you'll see that there is a very thick spacer between the sprocket and hub. Essentially, the cush drive is just a replacement for that spacer.
osteoderm
out of the box
Working on the new tank today, along with a little work on the cush drive. Not a ton to report, but for those following along...
I cut the cush elements out and pressed them into the drive adapter:
Further to hotdog's previous question about keeping the elements in place, here's a backside shot...
Next, I chucked the sprocket bolts into the lathe and turned them to remove all but 1/2" of thread...
The threaded portion of each bolt will fasten the sprocket to the sprocket carrier (yet to be made); the de-threaded portion of each bolt protrudes past the carrier and into the cush element...
Slowly slowly coming together...
I cut the cush elements out and pressed them into the drive adapter:
Further to hotdog's previous question about keeping the elements in place, here's a backside shot...
Next, I chucked the sprocket bolts into the lathe and turned them to remove all but 1/2" of thread...
The threaded portion of each bolt will fasten the sprocket to the sprocket carrier (yet to be made); the de-threaded portion of each bolt protrudes past the carrier and into the cush element...
Slowly slowly coming together...
pregrid
XS650 Guru
Purty stuff, that!
Cafe-Dave
XS650B
So, bearing + spacer goes inside the cush?
Looks nice. Why did you have to widen the hub, if you were going with a cush anyway?
Looks nice. Why did you have to widen the hub, if you were going with a cush anyway?
osteoderm
out of the box
Um... If I'm reading your question correctly, then yes. The sprocket carrier will have its own bearing, which will sit stepped into the center of the drive adapter. Since that bearing only carries the radial loads from the sprocket, and not the weight of the bike, it can be small enough to fit in there. In addition to the usual bearing spacer inside the hub, there will be a very short spacer between the sprocket carrier bearing and the drive-side wheel bearing.
Hopefully, the next round of pictures will make everything much clearer...
I didn't have to widen the hub, I just thought it would be neat.
Widening the hub improves the spoke angle to make the wheel a little stiffer laterally, and puts the wheel bearings a little further apart for strength. These 19" kits to put front hubs and disc brakes on the rear are great, but the stock front hub is really too narrow to be ideal. However, a similar cush-drive arrangement could easily be adapted to a stock-width front hub.
Johnt3
Still learning...
Oh Oh! You've got this figured out now, but I think you need a little more "practice".
I'll send you my stuff to help out..... Your Welcome.
I'll send you my stuff to help out..... Your Welcome.
osteoderm
out of the box
Unclesol will be happy to see that I'm making progress with mounting the new tank. The mounts I had previously welded into the frame for the old tank worked out great, and had enough adjustability built-in to be used with just about anything, but...
The new tank, after some strategic reshaping, required new mounting points to be welded in to match up with the existing mounts on the frame. This means more fiddly metalwork and welding deep in the tank tunnel, where both will be annoying.
So, I came up with the idea of a "saddle" of sorts; a shaped piece that snugly conforms to the underside of the tank/tunnel, while also attaching securely to the mounts on the frame. This is what I've gone forward with so far:
I layered in a barrier of Mylar tape over the area of the tank tunnel where the saddle will fit. Then, I made up some paper patterns before cutting the shapes out of carbon fiber twill cloth, saturating in epoxy, and pressing into place.
The laminate was covered in PeelPly, then weighted with a plastic bag tamped full of sand. A vacuum bag would have been better, but a bunch more work.
After the first layers of carbon were starting to kick, I laid in two more strips along the sides, and smoothed them over with more PeelPly.
Wither heater blasting away, the epoxy kicked reasonably quickly, so I pulled the PeelPly and popped the saddle out of the tunnel and removed the Mylar barrier. The saddle still has a few rou edges; every time I pulled it out for another fitting, I trimmed and sanded a bit more...
Here's a trial fit, right-side-up, on the backbone of the bike:
The Mylar had a few wrinkles, which kept me from a "perfect" finish, but no worries; this is a structural piece, not something for show!
Next, I started in with the cups that will fit over the posts that are mounted in the frame. I'm bonding in a single tubular piece, which will keep everything aligned. Afterwards, I'll cut out the center section to form two hollow stubs.
The tube is also carbon, with a Kevlar overlay. Right now I just have it tacked in with a few drops of epoxy; next, I'll finish with a proper fillet bond and a little more carbon.
The mounts I had previously welded into the frame for the old tank worked out great, and had enough adjustability built-in to be used with just about anything, but...The new tank, after some strategic reshaping, required new mounting points to be welded in to match up with the existing mounts on the frame. This means more fiddly metalwork and welding deep in the tank tunnel, where both will be annoying.
So, I came up with the idea of a "saddle" of sorts; a shaped piece that snugly conforms to the underside of the tank/tunnel, while also attaching securely to the mounts on the frame. This is what I've gone forward with so far:
I layered in a barrier of Mylar tape over the area of the tank tunnel where the saddle will fit. Then, I made up some paper patterns before cutting the shapes out of carbon fiber twill cloth, saturating in epoxy, and pressing into place.
The laminate was covered in PeelPly, then weighted with a plastic bag tamped full of sand. A vacuum bag would have been better, but a bunch more work.
After the first layers of carbon were starting to kick, I laid in two more strips along the sides, and smoothed them over with more PeelPly.
Wither heater blasting away, the epoxy kicked reasonably quickly, so I pulled the PeelPly and popped the saddle out of the tunnel and removed the Mylar barrier. The saddle still has a few rou edges; every time I pulled it out for another fitting, I trimmed and sanded a bit more...
Here's a trial fit, right-side-up, on the backbone of the bike:
The Mylar had a few wrinkles, which kept me from a "perfect" finish, but no worries; this is a structural piece, not something for show!
Next, I started in with the cups that will fit over the posts that are mounted in the frame. I'm bonding in a single tubular piece, which will keep everything aligned. Afterwards, I'll cut out the center section to form two hollow stubs.
The tube is also carbon, with a Kevlar overlay. Right now I just have it tacked in with a few drops of epoxy; next, I'll finish with a proper fillet bond and a little more carbon.
Focusinprogress
XS650 Addict
nice work with the composites for the tank "saddle"! I myself dabble heavily in the art of fiberglass/carbon fiber and resin
osteoderm
out of the box
Popped by the shop on the way home after work today. The tank saddle was cured enough to start in with the next application of carbon and epoxy:
This time I'm taking individual carbon fiber yarns, saturating them in resin, and wrapping them over and around the ends of the cross-tube. The ends of the yarns are flattened and splayed out to spread the loads and make for a broader adhering surface. Finnicky and sticky work, but not a bad way to unwind before beers.
I can hardly believe I'm making something that looks this high-tech only to completely hide it under the tank...
This time I'm taking individual carbon fiber yarns, saturating them in resin, and wrapping them over and around the ends of the cross-tube. The ends of the yarns are flattened and splayed out to spread the loads and make for a broader adhering surface. Finnicky and sticky work, but not a bad way to unwind before beers.
I can hardly believe I'm making something that looks this high-tech only to completely hide it under the tank...
osteoderm
out of the box
Small update, self-explanatory...
I'm hopeful for a "welding day" down at the shop this week!
I'm hopeful for a "welding day" down at the shop this week!
Square Circle
XS650 Addict
Very impressive build. Let us know when the rear wheel kit is available for purchase. Totally diggin it!!
Square Circle
XS650 Addict
Have Spare front hubs,, will ship to OSTEODERM!!! LOL
osteoderm
out of the box
I'm not against the idea of churning out a batch of cush-drive kits (or any other neat ideas, for that matter), and have the capability in the shop to do so. However, first things first! I'll have to give this hub a solid thrashing once completed, before I offer to make any more.
osteoderm
out of the box
Filled and sanded yesterday, and a little blocking and a coat of self-etch this morning...
If today goes well, I'm hoping for icing, blocking, and a couple coats of hi-build this afternoon. Man, I really love this tank...
If today goes well, I'm hoping for icing, blocking, and a couple coats of hi-build this afternoon. Man, I really love this tank...
