Excellent! Give us the batt voltage:Rotor swapped. Headlights come on. What should I check now?
1. bike turned on, motor off
2. engine at idle
3. engine reved to 3000-3500 rpm.
We need to make sure you're not overcharging.
Excellent! Give us the batt voltage:Rotor swapped. Headlights come on. What should I check now?
Excellent! give us the batt voltage:
1. bike turned on, motor off
2. engine at idle
3. engine reved to 3000-3500 rpm.
We need to make sure you're not overcharging.
Those are good numbers. Go out and have some fun with her.Off 12.67
Idle (Which seems to be a bit low now.) 12.3
3500 14.3
Those are good numbers. Go out and have some fun with her.
Don't forget to send my puller back.
That's what it looks like. Those voltages are right where you want 'em. The knockoff rotors are notorious for not lasting long. I know of one guy who went through 2 of 'em with less than 300 miles between failures.So you think all the issue was, was the knockoff rotor that the po had installed?
If you mean the pleated ones, you need to get rid of 'em. They don't play nice with the CV carbs. In the Tech section you'll find the carb guide. It's an excellent resource for carb tuning.Previous owner put K&N air filters on
If you mean the pleated ones, you need to get rid of 'em. They don't play nice with the CV carbs. In the Tech section you'll find the carb guide. It's an excellent resource for carb tuning.
Before you invest in a new battery, take the one you've got somewhere where it can be load tested. It's a good sign that it holds a charge, but not the whole story - a load test will tell whether it's got useful life remaining or not. Where I live, stores like Battery Plus and Battery Giant will do load testing for free.The only time I've started it was to move it to the back yard as they're repaving my street. Other than that. Hasn't been ridden. I'm well aware of the cascade of failures it can cause. Don't want to risk it. I'm going to replace the battery when I get the new rotor put on. This one is supposedly a year old. I've charged it on a trickle charger and seems to be holding a charge.
But either way. I really haven't been running it.
Before you invest in a new battery, take the one you've got somewhere where it can be load tested. It's a good sign that it holds a charge, but not the whole story - a load test will tell whether it's got useful life remaining or not. Where I live, stores like Battery Plus and Battery Giant will do load testing for free.
I wouldn't rely on the battery tender to detect faults. I think they just sense really bad cells.My battery tender is supposedly supposed to warn me if the battery is bad. All the tests I've done on the battery seem to say it's working fine. I'll take it in though. It seems the rotor just died because it was a cheap aftermarket thing.
You're sorting thru the problem methodically, which can be time-consuming but is the right way to go. Kinda like doctors diagnosing disease in a human body - eliminate one "possible" at a time.My battery tender is supposedly supposed to warn me if the battery is bad. All the tests I've done on the battery seem to say it's working fine. I'll take it in though. It seems the rotor just died because it was a cheap aftermarket thing.