Honing Cylinders

[theblackassassin]

So I was looking to get some input from the guys with some engine rebuilding experience.
attention : XSLEO, 5twins, retiredgentleman, etc

I currently have a spare motor I am in the process of rebuilding and everything has been going well.

My question is regarding Honing cylinders.

I have cleaned the pistons, cylinders, rings, etc,
Also NO groove lip on the top or bottom of the cylinder walls
They are perfect right now.

Measured everything, all is within spec to re-use.
Note: I have the Clymer guide so I have been using that as my reference

When I was in highschool we rebuilt an engine in shop class and I remember honing a cylinder to deglaze and get the 45 degree crosshatches, but I don't recall us using new piston rings though.


If you have the time to give me a breakdown on your guys honing knowledge that would be great.

When should honing be done?

Do you guys hone on every rebuild?

Flex beads? or Three Stone? - My friend at Subaru told me that the three stone ones are the newer version.

When honing is done should any components be replaced? or can you still re-use old rings.
Note: I am aware that after you hone you have to re-measure everything so as long as it was still in spec.

This is all I can think about for questions right now. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[5twins]

I only hone if new rings are being installed. I don't hone if the old ones are being re-used. But that's very rare that they can (or should) be. Measure the ring end gaps to see if they're in spec. Most of the time they're not and new rings are needed.

If you need to hone, don't use the stone type hone. It can remove material and enlarge the bore. Use the flex bead type. And don't listen to your friend from Subaru any more, lol.

 

[theblackassassin]

@5twins thanks for that input! Is there a particular size and grit that you use? or do you have a couple depending on what the condition of the cylinder is?

 

[theblackassassin]

@5twins scratch that. I actually pulled up one of your old threads where you posted which ones you own.

Thanks man!

 

[5twins]

I think the size is more important than the grit. You want the 3" size. I think the commonly available grits are 120, 180, and 320. I have mostly 180s and 120s for engine cylinders although I do have a 14mm 320 for brake MCs.

 

[ridgerunner1965]

one thing nobody has mentioned but im sure all you guys know is. after honeing, wash cylinders out with hot ,hot,soapy water.then wash them out again and rinse.check them by wipeing out with a lint free paper towel. if you get any color then do over.any grit left over can cause rings not to seat. after washing massage oil into the cylinder walls by hand to prevent rusting.thats just what i do.

 

[troopthrowback]

+1 on hot soapy wash. The process is exactly as described for the vintage triumph twins I rebuild. I'm glad to know the technique isn't any different!

 

[5twins]

I finally invested in an actual cylinder washing brush. It's like a giant bottle brush and does a wonderful job .....

http://www.ruffstuff.com/pages/clean.html

 

[DogBunny]

5twins, what size brush did you buy?

This may seem like a dumb question, but 3" cylinder does not necessarily mean a 3" brush.

 

[5twins]

I got the 3 1/2" size because I'd like to use it on larger bores as well (750, 900, and 1000 twins). I've already used it on a 650 and it fits and works well. They're so flexible, a 4" would probably work fine too. My 3.5" one does actually measure right about that size.

 

[YL82]

@5twins thanks for that input! Is there a particular size and grit that you use? or do you have a couple depending on what the condition of the cylinder is?

There are several YouTube videos out there that show use of Flex Hone on cylinders. Most cover RPM's, max. time honing each cylinder, use of a lubricant (10w-30, mineral oil, etc.), to be applied to the Flex Hone, cylinder walls, etc.