Key Switch Question...OFF means OFF...Right?

XStretchified650

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While in the process of diagnosing and hopefully fixing a problem with the right side turn signals I checked the voltage coming to the flasher unit. I found that with the key OFF I still had voltage coming to the flasher on the brown lead.

It jumps around a bit but generally reads about 7 to 8 volts. (Key OFF)

With the key On it reads about 12.6 volts.

I tested the brown wire's soldered terminal at the back of the key switch and I get the same reading. (7-8 volts with the Key Off).

In the headlight bucket I unplugged the other brown wires that connect to the brown wire from the ignition switch to make sure that I was isolating the voltage reading to the back of the key switch and I still get the 7-8 volt reading.

I assume that OFF means OFF and the brown wire should read zero volts with the key in the off position.

Please advise.....Is the inside of the switch serviceable?

XStretchified
 
Thanks for the info, I'll take it apart tomorrow. Do you agree that with the key OFF the brown wire voltage should read zero and, is this leak-by voltage a common problem?

Now I am wondering how many of the gremlins I've been chasing might be related to the leaky switch.

Xstretchified
 
Yes, I agree the voltage should be 0 on the brown wire, with the key OFF.

I can't remember anyone else ever reporting seeing voltage, down stream of the key, with the key OFF. That is a strange one.

I wonder how many PO's have been hacking at the wiring?

I suggest you remove the 20 amp main fuse, and then measure the voltage on the brown wire. This would be a check to see if there exists an alternate path direct from the battery, and not going through the key switch.
 
I'll pull the main fuse but I do expect that test to show zero voltage on the brown with the key ON or OFF.

I am the PO since 1981 so I will have nobody else to blame if I do find voltage on brown with the fuse pulled.

I am basically using a stock harness and I can't think of any wiring scenario screw up that would allow me to blow juice through a switch that is turned off. But...you never know...

Thanks.

XStretchified
 
PS....The flashers are fixed, they were on but not flashing on the right side. The signals worked fine for about a year. Today, I switched to a 552 electronic flasher and all is good now.

I wonder if constant current to the flasher unit could have toasted the right side of the flasher. .....Or maybe just old age.

Xstretchified
 
Well I figured it out...The Fluke voltmeter I was using automatically switches from volts to ohms......now I know.

Do we have a Wall of Shame?

XStretchified
 
Great job figuring it out......................we're all learning everyday.

Bonus points for coming back and completing the story...............many lads never reply back, so the story never has an ending.
 
Well I figured it out...The Fluke voltmeter I was using automatically switches from volts to ohms......now I know.

Do we have a Wall of Shame?

XStretchified

Hi Stretch,
that'll teach you to pay more than $10 for a multimeter, eh?
Does the cleverdick gadget TELL you it's switched itself or are you supposed to know?
OK, now that you realize that you were reading between 7 & 8 Ohms, what circuit was it?
 
Once you notice the area of the screen that indicates whether it is displaying volts or ohms you realize that it is darn near idiot proof. It is actually a pretty nice meter.

But..if you don't notice the symbol you end up taking things apart and testing wiring all over the place.

The 7-8 ohm reading was for the brown wire at the back of the switch. I am thinking that the 7-8 resistance reading is probably okay seeing as the brown wire branches into a lot of circuits and through a lot of lamps.

I tested tons of shit...are there any other circuit readings you are curious about???

XStretchified
 
Once you notice the area of the screen that indicates whether it is displaying volts or ohms you realize that it is darn near idiot proof. It is actually a pretty nice meter.

But..if you don't notice the symbol you end up taking things apart and testing wiring all over the place.

The 7-8 ohm reading was for the brown wire at the back of the switch. I am thinking that the 7-8 resistance reading is probably okay seeing as the brown wire branches into a lot of circuits and through a lot of lamps.

I tested tons of shit...are there any other circuit readings you are curious about???

XStretchified

Yes, measuring resistance on that brown wire is rather meaningless, since the wiring branches to so many different loads. All it says, is yes there is a path for current to flow, when the ignition switch is turned on.
 
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