Lining up Rear Drum brake pivot lever?

[XS650D]

Just installed new tires and rear brake pads, pulled the rear brake pivot lever from the drum
to Lubricate when replacing pads and forgot to mark the location.Ive got everything hooked back up
but unsure if there is a certain setting for the pivot lever.There no setting mark.I have approx 1/2"off threads
showing at the end of the adjustment rod with approx 1" off freeplay at the Foot pedal.I guess I was
wondering if there was an optimum setting for best leverage.I realize the bushing in the lever pivots to account for adjustment as brake pads wear.Also while I'm at it is the bar that attaches to the drum and runs to the centre of bike,cantrecall the name.Should I be bolted tight or does it pivot as the suspension moves .
I guess its a brace of some kind.

 

[gggGary]

Arm should be installed at 90 to the cam. Arm should not be reset to compensate for worn shoes. If correct spline is a bit ambiguous, align so the arm is angled slightly to the rear when installed this will give the linkage the best leverage.

Some pics, one "as received".



Torque arm; the correct bolts have a larger shank so the arm will freely pivot on the shank when the nut is tight, the bolt also is drilled for a cotter.

 

[weekendrider]

When you install the cotter pins would it be split end to the front or rounded?

Signed.
One who rides in the weeds.

 

[XS650D]

Ok thx GGGGGGARY. Regarding the Torque arm.How tight should that Nut be,Mine was loose on both ends but
can't fall off as the cotter pin holds it in place.Should that pivot pin and space between Brake hub and the Torque arm be greased.
Thx

 

[XS650D]

Ps: after a Nice ride with Mikes xs rear pads I find that they suck, compared to the original Yamaha rear pads.
I can stand on the rear brake and it barely slows the bike.The Yamaha pads would lock up the rear end pretty easy
if I wanted with moderate force.Mayby they just need to seat better ,not sure as its the first time with them.

 

[gggGary]

Shoes do need to be fitted to the drum there are places that do it, or you can just use the rear brake.
Did you remove clean polish grease reassemble the cam/pivot shaft?
Torque arm the stack
bolt
brake plate
torque arm
washer
lock washer
nut - tight
cotter pin

 

[xjwmx]

When you install the cotter pins would it be split end to the front or rounded?

Signed.
One who rides in the weeds.

How you turn it depends on the characteristics of the flora specific to where you ride. If you're skilled you can catch a whole dirt clod on it.

 

[gggGary]

I think it was fffFred that straightened out my cotter pin installs

 

[5twins]

I've had good and bad stock shoes, mostly bad aftermarket ones. Best one I've got is a '77 wheel with original shoes. Worst was probably my original wheel which came to me fitted with EBC shoes. My TX750 wheel suffers from the mismatched shoe to drum arch. The stock shoes that came in it were like that. Looked like new but I found out why after I discovered they were only making about 1/4 contact, lol. Braking was slowly improving as they bedded in more but I decided to change them out for some good ones, or so I thought. I got the (expensive) Ferodos from 3M. They have the same arch problem, lol. They do stop a bit better but now after a few hundred miles, they're starting to squeal/howl. I can't win with that wheel, lol.

 

[5twins]

I've swapped out most of my cotter pins for hitch pins .....

 

[weekendrider]

I tried some on the rear during the trip to the Smokies last year. Lost both of them. I was running them straight up and down because of accessiblity with the stock exhaust.

 

[5twins]

I've never lost one, and I've been using them for years. I do run them sideways, closed end forward, open end back. Don't know if that helps. On the rear axle, I take extra steps, positioning it so the shock mount locks it in place.

 

[MaxPete]

5T - I gotta ask (and please don't laugh) - how the heck do you get the rear axle one on like that. Once you tighten the nut, it's too tight to rotate the axle isn't it?

....enquiring minds want to know.

 

[weekendrider]

Pete you are kidding right?
He slips it though with the curves across the end of the axle. After that he flips the end over while spreading the top to fit over the nut. I wasn't there and we have never discussed it but a doughnut to a dollar says that is the way the hairpin fits.

 

[5twins]

I'm just lucky I guess because I'm able to "see" or visualize mechanical stuff like this in my mind. I never gave it much thought but now that I'm older, I realize not everyone can do this. You're the one who is going to laugh when I explain how simple this is, you just can't "see" it. So, it does look like an impossible task to get the hitch pin in and out at 1st glance, but it's not. All you do is rotate the top bent portion of the clip down 90° so it's out over the end of the axle and the clip slides right in or out just under the shock mount. This pic was from when I had my old chain still on there. It was stretched out a bit so the axle was farther back in the slots, making an ideal situation for this. I also run a slightly smaller than stock rear sprocket. That moves the axle back some too, even with a new chain.

We just did this to my buddy's bike. He's one of those guys who can't "see" mechanical stuff in his head so I'm sure this never occurred to him. He has a practically new o-ring chain and a stock size rear sprocket so his axle was much closer to the shock. We got it to work though. We had to angle the clip down in and it rests against the back of the shock eye when flipped up, not the shock mount.

 

[XS650D]

Sweet! Like the clips 5T!

 

[MaxPete]

Pete you are kidding right?
He slips it though with the curves across the end of the axle. After that he flips the end over while spreading the top to fit over the nut. I wasn't there and we have never discussed it but a doughnut to a dollar says that is the way the hairpin fits.

Oh....errrr, yeah that's right. I was just testing you.

You did fine young man.