How does it work. Rear brake rod and lever

[The Tin Man]

I am having problems putting my rear brake Rod and lever together. I thought it might be because of the longer Radeon swing arm and I also thought I may have had the wrong brake actuator lever the one that came with the box of bits is the one on the left in the picture with the bent arm so I ordered a xs 650 from a supplier it is straighter but I still have the same problem it seems that the locator for the brake wear switch interferes with the travel of the brake rod I'm wondering if I can remove the tab without any problems it might solve the issue. Im also wondering which of the two break actuator evers i should I be using. lastly the pin that connects the rod to the brake actuator I have two of these one is threaded one is not I also have an adjuster nut on the end which is threaded on the rod I don't see how I can adjust the PIN or the pivot if it's threaded I thought it should slide on the rod please clarify thanks in advance Tin Man

 

[stinky78]

Hi tin man, have you tried running the brake rod above the swingarm and turning the arm 180 degrees so it points up? that’s what I’m doing with my SR500 Radian swap. haven’t looked at the 650 in this regard but I was having clearance issues on the SR and running it over the top fixed it, or the other possibility would be to convert to a cable, might be the angle but it looks like the brake stay arm might be the wrong length, is it the XS one or the Radian?

 

[The Tin Man]

Hi tin man, have you tried running the brake rod above the swingarm and turning the arm 180 degrees so it points up? that’s what I’m doing with my SR500 Radian swap. haven’t looked at the 650 in this regard but I was having clearance issues on the SR and running it over the top fixed it, or the other possibility would be to convert to a cable, might be the angle but it looks like the brake stay arm might be the wrong length, is it the XS one or the Radian?

Great Info there stinky. I will surely give that a go. The brake stay arm is the radian I think. perhaps you could measure yours and ill know. 8)

 

[gggGary]

Lets see inside the drum?
your cam shaft looks like it isn't extending all the way out of the housing. There is a common assembly error that can cause that.
Read this thread, check your assembly, there are SEVERAL gotcha's that can happen specially if parts from several drums have been used.

Note the middle set, easy to assemble with that spacer plate flipped, might be your issue.
Swapping the arm to over the top action has another set of gotcha's, don't compound an existing problem.
The stock radian set up is just like the XS with the arm underneath.
not the best angle but...

 

[5twins]

Yes, you can cut the tab off the brake plate for the wear switch wiring. In fact, Yamaha (rather crudely) did just that in '77 when they discontinued the switch .....

You can do a much better job. Here's a before and after shot of one I removed from an XS500 plate .....

The "barrel" on the brake rod that the adjuster nut bears against should not be threaded onto the rod, it should just slide on. As you noted, you couldn't adjust it if it was threaded on. Also, it appears you're missing the felt seal ring that fits in the hub around the splined pivot shaft. It should be kneaded full of grease to help it seal around the shaft .....

If you do need one, Yamaha still sells them for about $2.

 

[The Tin Man]

Thanks 5twins,

This is why I love these sort of sites SO MUCH KNOWLEDGE AND SHARING! It is a pitty facebook ruined so many of them.

I will disassemble today an check my shaft sounds quite feasible i READ THAT THE BRAKE WEAR SWITCH MODEL HAS A UNIQUE VERSION.
I will cut the tab off while im at it.
BTW thanks for the radian photo we didnt get them in Australia.

Yes, you can cut the tab off the brake plate for the wear switch wiring. In fact, Yamaha (rather crudely) did just that in '77 when they discontinued the switch .....

You can do a much better job. Here's a before and after shot of one I removed from an XS500 plate .....

The "barrel" on the brake rod that the adjuster nut bears against should not be threaded onto the rod, it should just slide on. As you noted, you couldn't adjust it if it was threaded on. Also, it appears you're missing the felt seal ring that fits in the hub around the splined pivot shaft. It should be kneaded full of grease to help it seal around the shaft .....

If you do need one, Yamaha still sells them for about $2.

 

[5twins]

Another $2 item you can pick up from Yamaha is this wingnut style adjuster nut. Makes tool-less brake adjustments a breeze .....

 

[thuban]

I just don't see what is so hard about pressing the brake pedal and then holding the brake lever, back there, in the forward position and giving the adjuster nut an twirl? I hate wing nuts! It's like a woman with 3 breast! Why do you think men are so taken with breast? It's because some new MOM played find the nipple and it stuck for life! Wing nuts! Don't go there!

 

[The Tin Man]

Lets see inside the drum?
your cam shaft looks like it isn't extending all the way out of the housing. There is a common assembly error that can cause that.
Read this thread, check your assembly, there are SEVERAL gotcha's that can happen specially if parts from several drums have been used.

Glad I have you guys to hold my hand. Yow were right again here ggg . pullit apart and sorted. Thanks Mitch