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Mock up.
- Thread starter TonyB
- Start date
Yep, you got a mess there now. I don't powder coat top-end parts on the belief it's too thick and would hold too much heat; I prefer Cerakote there.
Anyways, you've got a messy job ahead of you in stripping the current failed coating. It will require some heat and a chemical stripper that contains Methylene Chloride and then probably copious vaper blasting to remove it. The problem was likely caused by insufficient prep of the part and there was oil still inside the aluminum that was not extracted (outgassed) sufficiently. Oil that remains in the pores of the aluminum must be outgassed and then cleaned again or the heating from the curing will bring it out, contaminating the powder coat. The same thing happens with cerakote if parts aren't prepped thoroughly.
Anyways, you've got a messy job ahead of you in stripping the current failed coating. It will require some heat and a chemical stripper that contains Methylene Chloride and then probably copious vaper blasting to remove it. The problem was likely caused by insufficient prep of the part and there was oil still inside the aluminum that was not extracted (outgassed) sufficiently. Oil that remains in the pores of the aluminum must be outgassed and then cleaned again or the heating from the curing will bring it out, contaminating the powder coat. The same thing happens with cerakote if parts aren't prepped thoroughly.
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Maybe it will be easier to replace the cylinder head assembly.
Welcome aboard TonyB!
If it's any consolation: Real chrome is not much better, I've never seen old chromed aluminum motor parts that looked decent.
I'm with JPD; don't want to make it any harder for heat to escape the motor.
Don't be tempted to buy JUST a cylinder head cover, the head and cover were machined together as sets. Mismatched head and cover can create alignment problems at the cam bearing bores.
If it's any consolation: Real chrome is not much better, I've never seen old chromed aluminum motor parts that looked decent.
I'm with JPD; don't want to make it any harder for heat to escape the motor.
Don't be tempted to buy JUST a cylinder head cover, the head and cover were machined together as sets. Mismatched head and cover can create alignment problems at the cam bearing bores.
Yes, super chrome 2.
The engine I am building is from a 1980 Special. I am going to swap them and hold on to the 1975
One main point is the thorough degassing of any parts that contained oil previously - wipe clean with degreaser, then soak in acetone, then several heat cycles (400F) to get embedded oils to the surface and then clean/soak again. Then media blast and clean again before coating.
https://www.powdercoatguide.com/201...assing the aluminum or iron,°F for 20 minutes.
https://www.powdercoatguide.com/201...assing the aluminum or iron,°F for 20 minutes.
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BTW, your powder job on the rocker box looked good; so you got the coating and curing procedure right, it was just insufficient prep that caused the problem....try again and good luck
Thank you
Flintz and elbow grease no disrespect I just like the authenticity of polish,
it's also a little break from the world to sort things out have a drink and talk to myself.
it's also a little break from the world to sort things out have a drink and talk to myself.
I am thinking the same. My goal is OC Bike week in Maryland. Late next September. Polished it will be.Flintz and elbow grease no disrespect I just like the authenticity of polish,
it's also a little break from the world to sort things out have a drink and talk to myself.
Front wheel is ready to go. I got the rear disk hub conversion from Cognito moto, nice piece. The front hub is one from xs650 direct. I filled the casting bridges and cast lines both off the hub and triple tree. Sent the hub to Buchanan's and they built the front wheel 18" with polished stainless spokes. The thing is awesome! Saving up now to have them build the rear.
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Cognito kit is awesome quality.
Well worth the spend in my experience.
Agreed.
Nice! I like the speedo tack combo! Looks sharp.
