Need advice for complete rewire of bike

oberling

oberling

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I'm looking at the daunting task of completely rewiring my XS650 from scratch. The turn signals and hi beams don't work, and the headlight and tail light are powered via tap splices into random key power wires. The entire wiring system is electrical tape and chaos and I can't figure anything out.

I've always been pretty bad with vehicle wiring; it's my least favorite part of the hobby, so I'm not really sure how to create a new harness for a bike like this. I'd like working lights and turn signals, spark for the engine, and a battery that charges, ideally as simply and cheaply as practical. The bike has electronic ignition, and all the chopper wiring diagrams I've seen online seem to assume the older engines with points. Does anyone know of a good, complete, simple wiring diagram for an electronic ignition XS-650?

Thanks!
 

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jpdevol said:
I prefer to make my own harnesses, but I've got all the supplies, tools, etc.
For the money, it's really hard to beat a pre-made harness. Here's one for a XS650SG (1st yr TCI) for $90 and comes with a new fuse box:
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-wire-harness-80sg-3g1-82590-51-oem-3g1-82590-51.html
Click to expand...
I actually enjoyed building my own harness around the Moto Gadget M-Unit for my bike.
Never done any auto-electrics before; and it did seem daunting at first. But being methodical and taking the advise from the forum members made the job easier. Great satisfaction when you test everything out and it works! My bike was a very non-standard machine to start with; but now I know every inch of the loom.
 
I’m looking into this now as well. If you want to build a new custom harness, study the circuits for the charging system (stator, reg/rec) and ignition system (pickup coil, ignition coil, tci), and it will start to make more sense I think. Throw that together with an inline 20A fuse, key and kill switch and you can kick start your bike. Basically everything else is a fused circuit coming off a fuse box.

But yeah, most practical might be a new harness from Mikesxs.
 
In the "Some electrical diagrams" I like #4. The main diagram shows a basic points and mechanical regulator and silicon rectifier. In the boxes are the later TCI and combo reg/rec. Upper right is the starter.
Íf you are using aftermarket ignition or reg/rec then just study how the diagram shows the stock parts and the install instructions that came with the new parts to get things hooked up.
You can scroll through the diagrams and find one that shows the parts you want to use and go from there.
 
Picking up here
Thinking about a new harness for my 1980 as they are sold at Mikes and so
Is it many hours work and any other problems .Like need take engine out or so
trying to avoid big things. But sooner or later you have to accept reality
If the cables are rotten, they are rotten. Can see it at the ends water have entered getting gray and the plastic cover is
not as it should be.

Please share thoughts and experiences and if there are better places to buy these.
Alos thinking about left and right hand controls and new ignition Lock
Maybe replace rectifier and regulator even though the ones there are OK

I do have crimping tools and so .So I could make a Simplified wiring.
I have a lot of wires at home not for automotive but perhaps usable
Done that before without problems.
Can solder it together

but I like Stock or near stock
Using Boyer Ignition
 
I took a chance and bought a used harness from eBay. I did continuity checks and only found corrosion on one wire. I re-wrapped the whole harness anyway so it was no big deal to cut a couple inches off the one wire, splice (solder) in a new piece and connector and she works great!
 
A year or so ago, I put a friend on my XS650SH and I rode my XS650SK. We did an all day ride to Vicksburg and another all day to return. I learned about my bikes on that trip. The SH is a low miles reassembled basket case. It mostly operates as new. The SK does not electric start when cold. The headlight is noticeably less bright on the SK. I’ve cleaned connectors on the SK a few times. I’ve replaced the connector from the stator. I am considering a new harness.

Some time ago, I replaced the wiring harness on my XS1100 with one I bought on eBay. The replacement was a fairly simple job.
 
jetmechmarty said:
A year or so ago, I put a friend on my XS650SH and I rode my XS650SK. We did an all day ride to Vicksburg and another all day to return. I learned about my bikes on that trip. The SH is a low miles reassembled basket case. It mostly operates as new. The SK does not electric start when cold. The headlight is noticeably less bright on the SK. I’ve cleaned connectors on the SK a few times. I’ve replaced the connector from the stator. I am considering a new harness.

Some time ago, I replaced the wiring harness on my XS1100 with one I bought on eBay. The replacement was a fairly simple job.
Click to expand...
Just a thought. If the harness is a bit ropey but otherwise still reliable, could consider using the hi/lo light switch to operate a hi/lo relay with the lights fed directly off the battery via fuse?

That's the approach I have taken with the ignition system to get maximum voltage onto the ignition coils. Could do the same with the lights.
 
Its been a long time said:
Just a thought. If the harness is a bit ropey but otherwise still reliable, could consider using the hi/lo light switch to operate a hi/lo relay with the lights fed directly off the battery via fuse?

That's the approach I have taken with the ignition system to get maximum voltage onto the ignition coils. Could do the same with the lights.
Click to expand...
My turn signals used to stop flashing as I came to a stop. This “fixed” with the installation of LED tail lamps. I think my harness has seen better days and has plenty of corrosion in it. I should probably replace the stator wires as well. I’ll use the tin plated airplane stuff.
When the stator connector got cooked on my XS11, I replaced the connector and a foot of wire on each side.
 
Its been a long time said:
Just a thought. If the harness is a bit ropey but otherwise still reliable, could consider using the hi/lo light switch to operate a hi/lo relay with the lights fed directly off the battery via fuse?

That's the approach I have taken with the ignition system to get maximum voltage onto the ignition coils. Could do the same with the lights.
Click to expand...

Thank You Sir
Actually been thinking about that relay for the ignition The spark is not so impressing
Have it through the ignition lock and that one is also --- so so ready for replacement

hi I --- almost never use
lo --- can skip that also most of the time - In Summer is not much darkness here its a law the lights ,, but I Mostly drive on the is it called parking lights.

Rarely in rain also .It seems to take water fairly well when I wash the machine

If I could boost the spark It may last some more Kick start only and it does charge -- good charging even
The plastic on some wires outside is dodgy but maybe the relay is the first step
I could cut and solder in new pieces at the places where it seems bad. and corroded

Perhaps a description what relay and where placed and the wiring .. Please
 
Jan_P said:
Thank You Sir
Actually been thinking about that relay for the ignition The spark is not so impressing
Have it through the ignition lock and that one is also --- so so ready for replacement

hi I --- almost never use
lo --- can skip that also most of the time - In Summer is not much darkness here its a law the lights ,, but I Mostly drive on the is it called parking lights.

Rarely in rain also .It seems to take water fairly well when I wash the machine

If I could boost the spark It may last some more Kick start only and it does charge -- good charging even
The plastic on some wires outside is dodgy but maybe the relay is the first step
I could cut and solder in new pieces at the places where it seems bad. and corroded

Perhaps a description what relay and where placed and the wiring .. Please
Click to expand...
Caveat, I am not an electrician or electrical engineer. This is what I did and it works. Anyone following my relay method is wholly responsible for their own decisions. For information -

For the ignition, I used a standard four terminal automotive relay. The relay contacts are closed/opened by the red/white wire that goes out from the kill switch to the ignition system. Extend the red/white wire as required. My relay sits where the reserve lighting box used to be. This means the ignition circuit with relay works 100% same as the factory system. The power to the ignition coil and electronic ignition box is taken from the live terminal of the starter solenoid (or battery, is same thing). Through a 10a fuse to the relay in red wire and then out to the ignition system in brown wire. Original wire colours. So ignition switch and kill switch work 100% as original design. Function of those switches is now to open/close relay contacts. Voltage to the ignition system is effectively battery voltage, only relay contacts give any voltage drop which is small.

Relay I used is very common, available any where. I bought two so that I have a spare -

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.c...642-12v-4-blade-type-b?sort=p.price&order=ASC
 
Did look at the Spark yesterday and The Wiring
So I have ordered a new Harness + Right and Left handlebar Switches
Also 2 relays
Maybe I connect a relay se if I can spot any difference.
I figure I can use the Harness sometime in the future since I have 2 bikes.
Who knows what is in the Future
Temperature is dropping so the riding Season is Almost over and I have a Honda that can be used
the last times.
 
Jan_P said:
Did look at the Spark yesterday and The Wiring
So I have ordered a new Harness + Right and Left handlebar Switches
Also 2 relays
Maybe I connect a relay se if I can spot any difference.
I figure I can use the Harness sometime in the future since I have 2 bikes.
Who knows what is in the Future
Temperature is dropping so the riding Season is Almost over and I have a Honda that can be used
the last times.
Click to expand...
If you haven't already, highly recommend cleaning the ignition key switch contacts.
 
Its been a long time said:
If you haven't already, highly recommend cleaning the ignition key switch contacts.
Click to expand...
Yes Sir
I have been in there Multiple times . have a couple all worn ones --If sparks not looking better after above .Ill replace that Key Switch also.
Always had crap bikes .But now the Finances .looks a bit better so I can Upgrade some
Bought a stock tank and maybe will keep on upgrading.
Stepwise
Again only time will tell .
Thank You
 
Jan_P said:
Yes Sir
I have been in there Multiple times . have a couple all worn ones --If sparks not looking better after above .Ill replace that Key Switch also.
Always had crap bikes .But now the Finances .looks a bit better so I can Upgrade some
Bought a stock tank and maybe will keep on upgrading.
Stepwise
Again only time will tell .
Thank You
Click to expand...
Great stuff. If you install an ignition system relay, the condition of the ignition key switch and kill switch does not affect spark quality. Because the ignition system is then powered through the relay, not the switches. Hope that helps.
 
You need the euro harness. When I replaced my 80SG, (Oceania points model), I had a US second hand harness from a 78 or 79 Special. A couple of small alterations due to my bike having a light on/off switch, pass switch and headlight park light. I had to use the US 78SE diagram to suit my 80SG.

Without looking I'm sure Heiden Tuning sell the harness that suits all Euro SE models.

If my memory serves, I think you have the Euro SE wiring diagram
 

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