Need some Fabrication ideas

Ketis

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I just got my bike going again, and immediately noticed a design oversight.

I have my tcbros electrical box about 3/4-1" away from the chain, but sometimes the chain will hit the bottom and its ruining the paint.

the tank is about as close to the frame rails as it can be to allow the cap to slide on.

Frame is powdercoated, so id rather not cut/weld.

here is a pic

zxt2.jpg



I could move it forward, but im not really sure how i should go about doing that
 
pull it off and cut down make it narrower (pull the end cap cut it and reinstall the cap
may not hurt the paint it'll be under the cap.) also tighen the chain up a little more it'll solw down the chain slap.
 
Ketis, That's really close.How about fabricating a plate to mount to where the tanks mounted now and mounting the tank a little farther forward. That should get you some more distance from the chain. You should get some close up pics of the tank mounting area and lets see what you got to work with.
DIRTY DOG's got an idea there, I cut my tank end caps down a little when I was building mine.
 
Here are some better pictures. I have the monstercraftsman chain tensioner. Its pretty tight (i heard things on here about it prematurely wearing out bearings if its too tight.

I dont think i could cut it down enough to make it work (fuse panel is attached to some welded in tabs)

no5i.jpg


q7m8.jpg


l6y0.jpg
 
I don't know if this has anything to do with rubbing on the box, it looks like your tensioner is on backwards. It's supposed to be sprung towards the rear tire.
 
Saw a thread the other day where the tensioner was on the top pushing down. The person integrated the tensioner gear into the electronics box though. Wish i could remember where i saw it for credit purposes.
 
They are installing the tensioner on a tcbros hardtail.

On the ardcore, the placement of the hoizontal bar is a bit lower, so it has to be angled more to get the same tension.
 
+1 Ketis

I have the skate wheel one on my Ardcore. They are hard to get tensioned correctly but it definately should go with the direction of chain movement. I have the same issue with chain slap on my electronics box too even though it is placed far up against the down tube under the seat stay. It's because the drop seat leaves little room for this type of setup. Fortunately for me I have a ratbike so I don't care that much but for you it's gone be difficult. Only options IMO to stop it is to tension from the top somehow or slice a section from the box. Bummer man.
 
Ketis,
I would do everything possible to move your "electrical can" up closer to the air filters, thereby gaining some clearance. 1/2" clearance between can and filters would be good.

Then doing as Gary suggest, putting a wear strip on the bottom of the left lid for extra protection.

It looks pretty light, so one strap from the existing bolt hole in the top to that cross mount and then something from below attached to your upper engine mount would really make it more secure than you have now.

No work on the frame and just a few more holes and some painting of new mounting material.

Least amount of damage.
 
Ketis,
I would do everything possible to move your "electrical can" up closer to the air filters, thereby gaining some clearance. 1/2" clearance between can and filters would be good.

Then doing as Gary suggest, putting a wear strip on the bottom of the left lid for extra protection.

It looks pretty light, so one strap from the existing bolt hole in the top to that cross mount and then something from below attached to your upper engine mount would really make it more secure than you have now.

No work on the frame and just a few more holes and some painting of new mounting material.

Least amount of damage.

Yeah, i think i am going to go this route. Just need to get some 1/4 steel and get to work (thats the thickness of the bar that comes with the TCBros tank.

Im thinking of bolting like a 2" wide piece to the bottom of the mount that is welded in, and have a flange sticking forward so that i can weld a piece on top, so that it is on the same plane as the one that i currently have welded in.

kind of like -_-
 
Just make a little roller for the bottom of the tank that will work just like the tensioner but not adjustable. Use a bolt and a small metal tube and two brackets and when the chain goes up it will run on the roller not the paint. Maybe $20.00 in parts.
I had to do one like that for a long swing arm bike chain would come up and hit the battery box. Worked perfect and was only about 3" long.
 
Just make a little roller for the bottom of the tank that will work just like the tensioner but not adjustable. Use a bolt and a small metal tube and two brackets and when the chain goes up it will run on the roller not the paint. Maybe $20.00 in parts.
I had to do one like that for a long swing arm bike chain would come up and hit the battery box. Worked perfect and was only about 3" long.

Do you have any pictures of this?

Im having a hard time picturing it
 
No but I think I have some stock around and will make one up and send you a picture. Its just like the one you have but skinny and doesn't move.
 
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