New bike, new questions

[650Skull]

revisit post #35.........the plate is the wrong way round......... Did you disassemble the advance mechanism when installing the Pamco.????

 

[NastyBeads]

Skull, I didn't touch the advance side when I did the Pamco. When I was putting the Pamco rotor on I totally forgot that the rod just slid out the other side. I just slid it back in and tried to start/time it. Im guessing the pin fell out and that's why my timing was jumping all over the place! I hope I didn't do any damage when I had it idling. Luckily...I guess....it wasn't running very long

 

[gggGary]

Since I have the patience of a rabbit on speed, I have grabbed the right diameter drill bit and used a dremel cutoff wheel to take the length I need off the shank. The drill bit is still long enough to keep using it. No shipping charges or week's wait.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

There ya go Gary !!!! I wasn't going to say that so I'm glad you did ! LOL
.....
Bob........

 

[5twins]

The pin for the advance unit can't/won't fall out if you withdraw the advance rod. They're 2 separate components. The only way to lose the advance unit pin would be to remove or partially remove the unit from the end of the cam. Then the pin could fall out. With the notched nut being loose, I suppose it's possible the advance unit moved out enough to allow the pin to fall out. Either that or since it was loose and able to move back and forth, maybe it sheared the pin off. That's not very common. Usually the pin just tears the slot up in the advance unit.

No matter. You need to pull it all apart and inspect things. The Pamco rotor can remain attached to the advance rod. Remove the little disc on the advance side (it's installed wrong anyway) and pull the rod out the points/ignition side.

 

[weekendrider]

Usually the pin just tears the slot up in the advance unit.

That was the destruction I alluded to. For awhile it seemed it was happening alot. Mostly with Mikes unit? Or OEM? Don't remember. But there were more than several posts about damaged units.

 

[NastyBeads]

How's it look now gents?!

I pulled it apart and found the backing plate pin was gone. Had the kids sifting through the gravel for a half hour with a magnet. No luck. I figured I'd check around the motor one last time and found it hiring in a cooling fin!

I pulled off the notched advance rotor thingy and found it was backwards so now I have lines that match up. Can't thank you all enough. I would have tried to run this thing again and ended up screwing something up bad or holeing a piston.

 

[650Skull]

Nice....................Where is the lube????

 

[NastyBeads]

In the nightstand next to the bed........is that what you were asking?

But really, what should be lubed? I only threw some on the advance rod

 

[650Skull]

I don't want to her about your draws

On the advance weight shafts and where the tangs sit in the groove......Not a heavy grease a light lithium is good

 

[MaxPete]

+1 - Nasty, just plop a little bit on anything that moves in the advance side - not too much though.

 

[5twins]

If I'm doing a disassembly and cleaning, the advance weight pivot posts get greased. After that, in the future, a small shot of foaming chain lube keeps them lubed. I dribble some on the springs too. I do this when the parts are warm, like after a ride, so the lube penetrates better.

 

[MaxPete]

Chain lube - great idea!

 

[Bob Kelly III]

Indeed ! it hangs on where grease won't,... fantastic idea and a great use for it ! way to go 5Twins !
....
Bob......

 

[gggGary]

I use the spray lube/solvent cans more these days, helps get lube inside parts without disassembly.
Open gear and cable lube is a good heavy duty luber. "dries to thick body moly grease.
Chain lube is less messy looking while still a fairly thick coating.
Spray "Garage door" lube is a good one for "lighter, keep free moving, but not messy" lube needs.

 

[NastyBeads]

Awesome, I'll get some on there today!

 

[NastyBeads]

So, it's been a little while. Got a lot of stuff done. Cleaned up frame, picking up freshly painted tank and fenders tomorrow, got a combo reg/rec and finished up the wiring. That's my issue. I'm not "good" at wiring but pretty comfortable. It's a full new harness. My issue is, I have hooked up to the factory key switch. First click gives power to the Pamco and reg/rec. last click it headlight and taillight. First click is just fine and able to kick the bike over with some starting fluid. Once I click again for lights, it blows both the 20a main fuse and 10a lighting fuse.

Obviously it's the wiring on the lighting somewhere, but why would it blow both fuses and not just the lights. The other bad news is I guess I felt too comfortable with my skills and clean up the wiring into a single loom so I will have to take it all back apart...

 

[gggGary]

Well hmm the headlight should come on with position #1 not #2 position #2 is for parking lights (tail) only as the factory wired it. The usual drill is disconnect a wire at the fuse then keep adding items on til you find what makes the fuse trip. Hint a circuit breaker in place of the fuse makes this a bit less painful. Got a "combo RR" you sure it is the right one for your charging system? What ignition are you using?

 

[NastyBeads]

Gary, its an ESR350 R/R combo that was mentioned on several other threads that did not need the addition of nylon screws. The ignition is a Pamco. Like I said, I don't think the issue is there because on the first click of the key everything is fine and I was able to hear it run for a few seconds with starting fluid. It wasn't until the next ignition position that both fuses blew. I will disconnect the H/L first and see if that's where the issue is. Its frustrating, im so close to riding this damn thing!!! haha

 

[5twins]

Original key switch only powered the parking light on the second click, no ignition. So, even if you get it to stop blowing fuses, it won't run on that 2nd click.