New chain? Sprockets?

tzimmerm

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OK, this is getting a little overwhelming. After checking my chain tension the other Night, I realized that Chain needs replaced. A lot of links are not completely seized, but sticking together and will move if you pinch them with your fingers, but I know that’s not good. There is also a good difference between the “tight spot” and “loose spot” on the chain. This is most likely the original chain, so everything I understand makes replacing it basically mandatory at this point. So according to most of the reading I have done online, I should replace the sprockets along with the chain, since they wear together. TC Bros sells an overdrive sprocket with 31 teeth, “a must for highway speeds” they claim. I do plan on doing a lot of interstate riding, as my girlfriend lives a town away, 25 minutes down the interstate. Is this necessary and worth it? Do I definitely need to replace the sprockets? Are the chains on TC bros website good enough? They also sell a chain breaker tool by motion pro, which is pretty expensive, so I was wondering if this is a service I could have my local powersports store do. I suppose it would be a good tool to have at my disposal, but in theory, I shouldnt need to use it again for a few years, and eerything I spend on at this point is over budget. Just wanted to get you guys input before buying even more expensive stuff.
 
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IMHO a 31 goes too far. I have a 32 on a hot rodded 750 and in the short amount of miles i have put on it, I decided to go to a 33 sprocket with a custom wheel conversion I'm doing. I have no problem having put thousands of miles on 34 tooth sprockets, though i prefer back roads to freeway, a few thousand have been on the slab.
I actually think we replace sprockets too often in street use, Sprocket steel has improved a lot over the last couple decades. Look at the sprocket teeth, compare with new ones or see if you can detect "sharp" teeth or more wear on one side of your teeth. Good teeth should still have the blunt ramps on both sides of the point, I often reverse a "looks good" sprocket and put on a new chain for another 5,000 miles. YMMV
PS after decades without, I have the motion pro tool, you really pretty much gotta with o-ring chains or stake style master links. Non o-ring, clip type master links, normal hand tools work "fine".
I buy DID #50 from farm and fleet for bikes that don't get run long miles, it works good. So far the Chinese (volar) o-ring chain has been working well also.
That custom wheel needed a custom sprocket I could only have made in Aluminum. I'll report how that holds up in street use.
 
If my sprockets ARE ok, am I ok to go with a clip style master link chain? From reading it sounds like O Ring chains are much better quality, but I really am trying To keep Costs down, and that would be a more expensive
Chain AND a tool. I don’t see myself putting even 2,000 miles on the bike this summer. Is a clip style link chain really dangerous?
 
I've never had a problem with them in a lot of years of riding but get some good how to on removing installing the clip, bad technique can result in failure.
 
I do know to put the clip on with the open end away from the direction of travel. I have just used needle nose pliers in the past to remove/ replace ML’s on my motorized bikes. Is there any harm in that?
 
Well I did it wrong for many years, till i finally figured out the right way. (I can be just a touch butt headed). Clip is always pushed straight on and off the pin, never pry one side up off the pin, that bends and spreads the clip. many tools work to do it right I like a small slip joint pliers held at 90 to the link face. The bit of offset in the jaw faces lets you get a good flat match on both the pin and the end of the clip.
This shows the steps pretty well.
Check that the clip is straight and the jaw ends aren't spread out. If needed squeeze it so the jaws are flat and tight, before reinstalling.
 
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I also run a plain old DID #50 chain with a master link. It works just fine for these old bikes and I have not experienced any problems with the chain stretching. I just bought another as a matter of fact for my new build.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/D-I-D-530-11...m=331616362226&_trksid=p2056116.c100935.m2460

I am running a 32 tooth rear sprocket on my ‘77 and I just bought a 34 tooth rear for my ‘72 because I want it to have a little more snap for around town riding.
 
I really appreciate the input on chains; I think I will carefully inspect both sprockets when I have the side cover off to replace the clutch cable, and if the sprockets are both good I’ll just run a standard clip style ML chain. If I need to replace the sprockets, I’ll go to a 33T rear; it sounds like that’s the happy medium from everyone’s experience. PS- Thanks for the link, Mailman! I’ll go with that if I can!
 
Hi tzimmerm,
17T/33T is about optimum for me. 18T/34T is about the same ratio but I'm agin' the 18T front as it's use only
allows you to use standard chain because the HD & Sealed chains have larger side plates that will chew on stuff.
I'd advise that you need a 17T front, the rear sprocket of your choice and a sealed (O-ring or X-ring) chain.
There's also the option of using 520 chain and sprockets instead of the stock 530, my opinion? Don't bother.
The weight saving is negligible and the cost saving is balanced by the narrower chain's increased wear rate.
You can cut chain by grinding the heads off both pins in a link and driving a cold chisel down between the
inner and outer side plates to pop the outer side plate off.
Nothing hazardous about clip-style joining links (vs a fully riveted chain) so long as they are installed properly.
The joint that comes with a sealed chain has to be installed by squeezing the outer plate onto it's pins
using a vise-grip and a spacer (I used an M6 nut) for the pins to push into.
Squeeze the pins through (a little bit alternately on each pin) until the horseshoe clip's groove shows through.
Then install the horseshoe clip with it's closed end pointing in the direction of chain travel.
Note that sealed chain still needs the chain roller/sprocket interface to be lubricated because it keeps it's
lube inside itself so none gets out to oil the sprockets.
there's also the option of installing a ScottOiler or other automatic chain oiling device.
I installed mine many years back and YES! their claim of at least 5X chain life is actually true.
 
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I see on Mike’s they have two 33T rears. One says its for 520 chain, and the other says “European standard” 530. Is this the pitch of the chain? And is my stock chain/sprocket pitch 520?
 
Just remembered I had this photo.
Guy my son bought a VF750F from despite my good advice said:-
"you just gotta keep the chain tight"
IMG_0008.JPG
Yeah, right.
 
The value of something to you has nothing to do with its price. I've been using this chain, for $15.00. You need to cut off four rollers, trivial if you have a Dremel tool. Someone said it was made by the same company that made the xs650 mag wheels. Lasting much better than chain I was getting from Mike's. Several sellers of the same thing as if a big container of it got floated over.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Harley...108-links-B-/311691812998?hash=item489247a086
 
I'v been run'n 32 on the rear..standard chain....for yrs.. no issues. My 82' with the 16 inch wheel did see a drop in engine rpm's which came in handy on longer trips.
 
I see on Mike’s they have two 33T rears. One says its for 520 chain, and the other says “European standard” 530. Is this the pitch of the chain? And is my stock chain/sprocket pitch 520?

Hi tzimmerm,
chain is specified in 1/8ths of an inch.
#530 chain is 5/8" link length pin to pin with a 3/8" roller width.
This size chain has the same dimensions as #50 agricultural/industrial chain and some have used ag/ind chain on their bikes.
#520 chain is 5/8" link length pin to pin with a 1/4"(2 x 1/8") roller width.
Some modern bikes use #525 chain & sprockets, Guess what size it is.
Your bike left the factory with #530 chain & sprockets.
Note that #520 chain won't fit on #530 sprockets but #530 chain will run on #520 sprockets although it's not a good idea.
 
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... farm chain..... many years ago.. I was with a group ride'n in SE Minn... Cows and corn. I had a big bore 750 77" Standard with a 0 ring chain. As we approached a small town my bike got very smooth and forward progress slowly fell off... twist'n the throttle just made noise.. ? I pull over and the chain is missing. Thank the big guy upstairs it didn't bind and lock a wheel or explode my engine case. Walked back about a hundred yards and there was my chain. No master link.
The local hardware store had a large 4'x4' board on the wall with master links from half inch to 4 inch.. but no 0 ring style.
Next door.. a John Deer dealer... he had " farm chain " on a massive roll. He cut 104 links.. a new master link.. I'm out $16.00.... the only different I'm told is farm chains are not heat treated... m/c chains are. I don't know.... I did have to adjust it a few times and then it seem'd to settle in place. Since then I have spare links on my boot straps.
 
I used farm chain on my motorized
Bikes, that’s where my experience using a chain breaker and
Master links comes from. I don’t have the chain breaker anymore, but I wonder if the local farm store still carries bulk chain. I think it was 2-3 dollars a foot.
 
#50 is the industrial version of #530 as someone said, and if you do research you'll find that the #50 is actually intended to be more rugged, not less, and the #530 is designed with lighter weight as a consideration.
 
The value of something to you has nothing to do with its price. I've been using this chain, for $15.00. You need to cut off four rollers, trivial if you have a Dremel tool. Someone said it was made by the same company that made the xs650 mag wheels. Lasting much better than chain I was getting from Mike's. Several sellers of the same thing as if a big container of it got floated over.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Harley...108-links-B-/311691812998?hash=item489247a086
Ok, I just ordered this chain. For 21.00 including shipping, and your blessing, it seems like a no brainer. I’ll inspect the sprockets tonight, and if they aren’t perfect, I’m going to order the JT 17-33 sprocket setup 5twins suggested. In total WAAAAY cheaper than mikes AND TC Bros options. I am definitely less stressed about funds now.
 
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... farm chain..... many years ago.. I was with a group ride'n in SE Minn... Cows and corn. I had a big bore 750 77" Standard with a 0 ring chain. As we approached a small town my bike got very smooth and forward progress slowly fell off... twist'n the throttle just made noise.. ? I pull over and the chain is missing. Thank the big guy upstairs it didn't bind and lock a wheel or explode my engine case. Walked back about a hundred yards and there was my chain. No master link.
The local hardware store had a large 4'x4' board on the wall with master links from half inch to 4 inch.. but no 0 ring style.
Next door.. a John Deer dealer... he had " farm chain " on a massive roll. He cut 104 links.. a new master link.. I'm out $16.00.... the only different I'm told is farm chains are not heat treated... m/c chains are. I don't know.... I did have to adjust it a few times and then it seem'd to settle in place. Since then I have spare links on my boot straps.

Hi 'mike,
back in the day we all carried a little tin can labelled "Renold Chain Spares" that had a master, a cranked and a plain link inside it.
Pessimists carried two of them.
And guess what? You can still find them on e-bay:-
https://www.ebay.com/p/Renold-Motor...116?iid=122019111571&_trkparms=aid=222007&alg
 
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