She runs! What’s next?

Wrenchmorethanride

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hi All,

So I got my 79 running good. Just running in garage so far. Wondering what else I should do before getting registered and on the road.

About the bike - bone stock 1979 with cast aluminum rims.

Things I’ve done so far.

Checked timing chain
Adjusted valves and points timing
Drained brake lines. Replace front brake master cylinder
New voltage regulator
Checked electrical connections. Redid a couple with corrosion
Rebuilt air filters
Rebuilt carbs
Replace brittle intake hoses
Replaced gaskets in intake manifolds
Probably forgot something, but I thinks that’s all

I know I need new tires. Probably the original tires on it now. I’ll be riding on a mix of paved and dirt roads. Probably never in the rain. Any recommendations? Do tires have tubes? I have the cast spoke wheels.

What else?
suspension?
Clean/adjust chain?

Thanks for your input!
 
Early Yamaha mags needed tubes. You'll need to examine the wheels, particularly the webs of the spokes. They will be marked if the wheels can use tubeless tires .....

TubelessLabel.jpg
 
How much chain adjustment left..? may be time for a chain and sprocket's..... Perhaps a change in sprocket ratio... I like the 32 on the back for my units.... Suspension upgrades... center stand the bike... check swing arm bushings.... if you plan on keeping the bike.... swap the ball bearings in the steering head.. toss in tapers... new fork springs and rear spokes.... 😎
 
Replace fork seals and/or change fork oil; check swingarm bushing side-to-side play; lube cables; adjust clutch actuator; replace clutch pushrod seal (buy 2 or 3, you will definitely f*ck one up!); replace clutch pushrod bushing; retorque head bolts; check all lights work properly; check alternator brushes; check centrifugal advance shaft is free/turns easily; since you've now run it after adjusting the valves, recheck them; while running, spray some starting fluid at the intake boots and carb butterfly shafts - any variation in idle speed indicates an intake leak; at the very least lube and adjust chain, and consider replacing all 3 using X-ring chain; Consider replacing rear sprocket with 32T in place of 34T, brings 65mph rpm down 300 rpm (bike was built in the 55mph speed limit era). There's probably a lot more, but these are pretty important.
 
Replace fork seals and/or change fork oil; check swingarm bushing side-to-side play; lube cables; adjust clutch actuator; replace clutch pushrod seal (buy 2 or 3, you will definitely f*ck one up!); replace clutch pushrod bushing; retorque head bolts; check all lights work properly; check alternator brushes; check centrifugal advance shaft is free/turns easily; since you've now run it after adjusting the valves, recheck them; while running, spray some starting fluid at the intake boots and carb butterfly shafts - any variation in idle speed indicates an intake leak; at the very least lube and adjust chain, and consider replacing all 3 using X-ring chain; Consider replacing rear sprocket with 32T in place of 34T, brings 65mph rpm down 300 rpm (bike was built in the 55mph speed limit era). There's probably a lot more, but these are pretty important.
Thanks! I was having erratic idle and I did the spray test previously. Definitely has a leak on one of the gaskets. Got new gaskets and tested again. Good on that now. Lights good. I rebuilt the clutch on a Yamaha atv a few years ago. Wish my memory was better :). I have both wheels off until I get tires done. Good time to do some of the work you suggested. Need to look at my manual and YouTube to figure it all out
 
Replace fork seals and/or change fork oil; check swingarm bushing side-to-side play; lube cables; adjust clutch actuator; replace clutch pushrod seal (buy 2 or 3, you will definitely f*ck one up!); replace clutch pushrod bushing; retorque head bolts; check all lights work properly; check alternator brushes; check centrifugal advance shaft is free/turns easily; since you've now run it after adjusting the valves, recheck them; while running, spray some starting fluid at the intake boots and carb butterfly shafts - any variation in idle speed indicates an intake leak; at the very least lube and adjust chain, and consider replacing all 3 using X-ring chain; Consider replacing rear sprocket with 32T in place of 34T, brings 65mph rpm down 300 rpm (bike was built in the 55mph speed limit era). There's probably a lot more, but these are pretty important
 
Is there a way to know if seals are good or not? Or should I just assume they should be replaced?
If the forks aren't wet right now, you can hold off. But just know the rubber is decades old by now and probably won't last. Unless your fork tubes are wet with fork oil, that can be a winter project.
 
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If the forks aren't wet right now, you can hold off. But just know the rubber is decades old by now and probably won't last Unless your fork tubes are wet with fork oil, that can be a winter project.
Ya, I’m also redoing seals on this big girl, a 78. I should just suck it up and do ‘em. Can’t be worse than a backhoe.
 

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