New Last Build Thread "maybe"

Well the TLAR engineering was in full swing today. I came to the conclusion that I could not hold up two wheels and use the tape measure at the same time. Trying to visualize the wheel base, ground clearance, fork angle and ride height etc. Absolutely no data so far.:shrug: I did however order some more frame jig stuff from Chop Source. I`m somewhat ok with thought but I`m super great with afterthought.:thumbsup:
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Where you at on your tube bender die's Phil? What sizes you settin' up to bend?
 
I need dies for 1 1/8". Mega Bucks considering I only need to make 6 bends. I have a Mittler Bros bender and their right at $400 for the die and follower. If we had a foundry here in ShitBurg I`d turn one down out of wood and have it cast in aluminum. I took the wheelbase from 58" to 66" and that doesn`t seem long enough??:umm: The rule book doesn`t give any info on ground clearance either. Thinking about a 38 degree fork angle.
 
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halfmile said:
1"-7/8"-3/4"-1/2" in round and 1/2" in square.
Click to expand...
'K... you want an inch and an eighth. That's 3/8's smaller than your 1-1/2" die.
3/8's div by 2 is 3/16's.
So, find a pipe that's 1-1/2" OD with a 3/16" wall. (the wall thickness isn't critical... just don't go thicker than 3/16")
Bend that.
Cut the bend in half along the mold line.
There's your filler. Stick that in the 1-1/2 die and you'll have an 1-1/8" die.

Serve hot.... enjoy. :laugh2:
 
I`ve done that before but my biggest die is 1". I might be able to borrow a 1 1/4" die and bend a piece of chrome molly with a 1/16" wall. That`s cheating but at this point I`ll just bend it when nobody`s watching.:sneaky:
 
halfmile said:
I need dies for 1 1/8". Mega Bucks considering I only need to make 6 bends. I have a Mittler Bros bender and their right at $400 for the die and follower. If we had a foundry here in ShitBurg I`d turn one down out of wood and have it cast in aluminum. I took the wheelbase from 58" to 66" and that doesn`t seem long enough??:umm: The rule book doesn`t give any info on ground clearance either. Thinking about a 38 degree fork angle.
Click to expand...
If you have the tooling (wood lathe, I assume) to turn one down out of wood, could you not turn a die and follower out of a wood species that would withstand the few bends that you need to make? I'm thinking a good dense hardwood such as oak, maple, maybe hickory that would not deform under use. If you have a metal-turning capabilities, a suitable blank such as a large steel or cast iron pulley or caster wheel could serve as a die. I recently modified some old cast-iron caster wheels to serve as dies for an simple English wheel that I am building.
 
atom4488 said:
If you have the tooling (wood lathe, I assume) to turn one down out of wood, could you not turn a die and follower out of a wood species that would withstand the few bends that you need to make? I'm thinking a good dense hardwood such as oak, maple, maybe hickory that would not deform under use. If you have a metal-turning capabilities, a suitable blank such as a large steel or cast iron pulley or caster wheel could serve as a die. I recently modified some old cast-iron caster wheels to serve as dies for an simple English wheel that I am building.
Click to expand...
I`ve done that before.:thumbsup: I needed a 4 1/2" radius 3/4" die for some Go Kart seat and steering hoops for the weld it yourself kits I used to make. The 3/4" tubing was mild steel structural .063 wall and very easy to bend. I don`t think wood would work very good on 1 1/8" .120 wall DOM.
DSCN1415-001.JPGDSCN1416-001.JPGDSCN1417-001.JPGretro kart kartzilla 016-001.jpgretro kart kartzilla 023-001.jpg
 
halfmile said:
I`ve done that before.:thumbsup: I needed a 4 1/2" radius 3/4" die for some Go Kart seat and steering hoops for the weld it yourself kits I used to make. The 3/4" tubing was mild steel structural .063 wall and very easy to bend. I don`t think wood would work very good on 1 1/8" .120 wall DOM.
Click to expand...
Beautiful kart stuff... the .120" wall DOM (chrome-moly to boot?) might be a challenge. Give it a try in wood anyway or find a blank of alternate material that could be turned with resources at hand? Takes a heck of a lot of force to significantly deform a piece of hardwood in compression.
 
halfmile said:
Removing one of these is not as easy as it looks.
Click to expand...
Boy you ain't justa woofin' there buddy. Didn't think I was ever gonna get there.
This one's got some pretty good undercutting from the factory welds. I'll most likely TIG those in and grind flush.


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Not easy at all you say.:doh: Today I tried to figure out the ride height and ground clearance and ordered some 1 1/8" double split locking collar`s to weld to the frame jig. The ground clearance will have to be determined sitting on the floor and the dimensions transferred to the frame jig. Wheel base, fork angle, ride height, ground clearance, motor placement, main center bar location, upper rails, cross braces, and all the brackets are just a piece of cake waiting to happen.:thumbsup: Yeah Right!!
 
Today I set the fork angle at 35 degrees and mocked up a fork tube to see how far forward the axle center is while in the jig. Measured 70" from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle adjustment slot. TLAR:laugh:. I also ordered new tires, tubes, wheel, spokes, bearings, seals, rear axle pullers, and a bunch of other stuff I can`t remember.:umm:
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Nice!! You settled on the ground clearance yet?
 

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