Yeah, that's why I went with new. Easier to source, but they bring their own hassles (see "this thread").All those different versions is what drove me crazy with rebuild kits because they differ.
Holes in the diaphragms from one version don't align with another version.
The repair kit from Dime City / Mike's XS is part # 20-0014. New filters for the stand tubes are part # 20-6419 (set of two filters). The petcock is super easy to rebuild. I used a soft bristle wire brush to clean up any oxidation / deposits from behind the rubber valve disc, then made sure the sealing face of the turn valve was clean, flat and smooth (make sure there are no sharp edges around the passage channel). The original valve disc that was in the petcock that I rebuilt was black in color - indicating it was probably a nitrile / buna material. The replacement in the kit was a reddish - maroon color, indicating that it was probably viton or variant thereof, which should give longer service life. There is a screen and plug in the valve body that are easy to remove and clean - overall rebuild of this manual petcock is a very simple task. I did add a wire clamp to each prefilter so they would stay on the pickup tubes - they are made of nylon or similar material, which does not have good elastomeric memory, and I found mine floating loose in the tank after they had slipped off the stand pipes. I wound some stainless steel wire around the threads of a bolt (I don't recall exactly whether it was a 5/16-18 or 1/4-20) - then clipped a couple of windings and fit them around the lower part of the filter - had to work them over the plastic, but the result was a tight fit over the standpipes.@rhkansas, do you still have the stuff you sent me for this repair? Full disclosure, that was the procedure I followed.
I use Parker O Lube on that sealing disc and o'ring liberally. 3K miles on my rebuild of said petcock and it's still buttery smooth. I hypothesize that dielectric grease may do the job as a substitute, but I have no need to try it.Description
Parker Olube lubrication of all types of ORing seals is extremely important for installation of all types, operation of moving and seating of static seals. The specific rule for installation is: The greatest benefit in using a lubricant is obtained during the installation of the Orings.
PARKER O-LUBE is an outstanding general purpose grease intended for use with seals that perform in hydrocarbon service. It can also be used in pneumatic service. Its useful temperature is -20° to 180°F(-29° to 82°C). PARKER SUPER-0-LUBE is an exceptional all purpose lubricant. It is not a grease, but a high viscosity silicone oil. It is especially useful as a seal lubricant. Its temperature range is -65° to 400°F (-54° to 204°C).
I used that thread to learn about the vacuum petcock on my '80SG. Rebuilt it about 5 yrs ago. Still working fine.There is an excellent post on refurbishing vacuum Petcocks reposted from the XJ site. Gives a good descriptive with accompanying pics showing the cleaning up of casting marks and tips on cleaning. @gggGary posted this and may know where it is.
Found it. All the way back in 2012.Looked in the tech menu but it hasn't been added.
Done!Found it. All the way back in 2012.
@Travis , add it to Tech?
https://www.xs650.com/threads/rebuilding-yamaha-vacuum-operated-fuel-valves-petcocks.20662/
This is it.where do you guys buy the 4-hole repalcement seals for non-vacuum petcocks? https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...z7f3SjXqcYdEx7ncOj3Uhi4ISr-E88R8aAryYEALw_wcB
What about the seal only. Not the whole rebuild kit?This is it.
https://www.dimecitycycles.com/yama...12-00-90202-05187-801-24437-00-447-24522.html
It's the same part number at MikesXS.
Good luck with that one.What about the seal only. Not the whole rebuild kit?