No joy in Muddville.....won't start now. Plugged stock TCI in; vroom-vroom. Reconnected V11r, checked all connections and input voltage, re-checked values - nada. Garage door closed for today.
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Programmable advance TCI Replacement
- Thread starter 2XSive
- Start date
Well that's too bad....was hoping this might be a bit of a silver bullet ignition as replacement for stock TCIs. You throwing in the towel or gonna keep trying?No joy in Muddville.....won't start now. Plugged stock TCI in; vroom-vroom. Reconnected V11r, checked all connections and input voltage, re-checked values - nada. Garage door closed for today.
I'm still game. The non-starting began after I hit "reset", so there's something off (I think) somewhere. I didn't check for spark, but from the sound while cranking, there isn't any. It always started and ran before - just too advanced. I have the EEPROM dump from before and after; yet to be examined.
rickthefix
XS650 Enthusiast
I taught MSF classes for 8 years, We taught that you SHOULD use the "kill" switch as it's there for emergency use and you do it with regularity for muscle memory. If you never use it, you'll not have the reaction to use it when needed. I've worked on many cycles over the years and only saw one in all these years where that switch actually failed.
Included here are EEPROM dumps from prior to "reset" and after. As can be seen, there are different values @ lines 104-136. Insofar as I can tell, those fields aren't part of typical user entered fields; they can be accessed, but I have no idea what values to enter. So, email off to support....
Ha....so just now on 1st cup of coffee and still blurry eyed, but I have 3 emails from Thierry! A quote from one:
- Jim is totally right:
"Input 40° as the sensor position.
Now input 0° as desired advance at idle.
If the sensor position is correct, your light will fire at 0°
Run the bike and see what the light actually does. Whatever degrees the light fires at will be the correction for the sensor position."
Once the (correct) sensor position is known, then start playing with advance
LOL - just wait 'till 46th sees that!
I've got some direction now and we'll head back into it this afternoon: got 50-some property tax invoices to deal with first....
- Jim is totally right:
"Input 40° as the sensor position.
Now input 0° as desired advance at idle.
If the sensor position is correct, your light will fire at 0°
Run the bike and see what the light actually does. Whatever degrees the light fires at will be the correction for the sensor position."
Once the (correct) sensor position is known, then start playing with advance
LOL - just wait 'till 46th sees that!
I've got some direction now and we'll head back into it this afternoon: got 50-some property tax invoices to deal with first....
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A great sign that Theile is so responsive. And why am I not surprised about Jim being right again. He won't be able to fit his head through his shop door today. 
A great sign that Theile is so responsive. And why am I not surprised about Jim being right again. He won't be able to fit his head through his shop door today.
Buy one of these for him..............No problem to big or small..................problem solved
ckahleer
XS650 Addict
When I installed the GN250 box, I got very unstable timing. When using a timing light, the timing mark was jumping around quite a bit. Is this the same thing happening with this box?
Sorry for delay in responding. Still working on it; can't say it's unstable, currently haven't got the user-defined parameters entered in a combination that produces a spark at the desired timing. That in itself makes things erratic - stay tuned (pun).
JP....just got my unit and wiring it up. Can you confirm how you wired the black wire from the igniter? Did I see correctly that you jumpered the B/W to black in the bike harness connector? (I know black wire from igniter goes to ground)
I'm still going over the stuff JP sent me. When you get to that point Larry, I'd like to see some data dumps so we can do some comparisons?
Caught me out riding...
Yes, I jumpered black from TCI to Black/White and Black in harness connector.
Here's a pertinent part from email:
- Jim is totally right:
"Input 40° as the sensor position.
Now input 0° as desired advance at idle.
If the sensor position is correct, your light will fire at 0°
Run the bike and see what the light actually does. Whatever degrees the light fires at will be the correction for the sensor position."
Once the (correct) sensor position is known, then start playing with advance.
it's like the try&error method :
If you set the "Pickup position" to 40° BTDC and with your Timing Lamp you measure MORE advance than what is set in the user interface (ie 30°@3000rpm) then INCREASE the "Pickup position" (40° → 45°)
If you set the "Pickup position" to 40° BTDC and with your Timing Lamp you measure LESS advance than what is set in the user interface (ie 30°@3000rpm) then LOWER the "Pickup position" (40° → 35°)
- The GOAL is to be sure 1) to use the most advanced pickup 2) to set the polarity right and 3) To not have electrical noise on the pickup wires leading to false triggering.
For that a scope is of the most importance, if you can put your hand on one it'd be great !!
Best regards,
Thierry
- Jim is totally right:
"Input 40° as the sensor position.
Now input 0° as desired advance at idle.
If the sensor position is correct, your light will fire at 0°
Run the bike and see what the light actually does. Whatever degrees the light fires at will be the correction for the sensor position."
Once the (correct) sensor position is known, then start playing with advance.
it's like the try&error method :
If you set the "Pickup position" to 40° BTDC and with your Timing Lamp you measure MORE advance than what is set in the user interface (ie 30°@3000rpm) then INCREASE the "Pickup position" (40° → 45°)
If you set the "Pickup position" to 40° BTDC and with your Timing Lamp you measure LESS advance than what is set in the user interface (ie 30°@3000rpm) then LOWER the "Pickup position" (40° → 35°)
- The GOAL is to be sure 1) to use the most advanced pickup 2) to set the polarity right and 3) To not have electrical noise on the pickup wires leading to false triggering.
For that a scope is of the most importance, if you can put your hand on one it'd be great !!
Best regards,
Thierry
