Programmable advance TCI Replacement

Right side of the drain is 35°. Left is 40° Sounds like there's no retard being computed.... firing as soon as it senses the trigger.
I'll go back through to check if something is overriding. At first (during video posted), it was firing near TDC @ idle and stumbling. I better hook-up tach tomorrow too.

No kick-back, bendix hasn't objected yet either - a little harder to start than normal.
 
Well, at least we know it works! Woo hoo! Looking over the settings you have and comparing it to the setup guide, I'm wondering if the pickup polarity has any impact? Is it set to auto-detect or did you enter a value for that (line 244 per setup)? The timing fires at the end of the magnet passing over the pickup, so would increasing dwell to say 4 or 5 ms help retard timing slightly (setting pickup at 40*)?
Just now reading back through: I started with 0 (auto-detect) on the p/u, then on run #5 -6, changed the p/u to 1.
 
Looks like you could run the app in console mode, which would display actual RPM and advance in realtime while engine is running. Maybe compare that with what your mini tach and timing light reads? One thought/concern that I read in one of the online comments on his website...would it be possible that the unit might be picking up two cycles per rev (maybe due to the way stock pickup works), thus doubling or inaccurately calculating actual RPMs?
 
One thought/concern that I read in one of the online comments on his website...would it be possible that the unit might be picking up two cycles per rev (maybe due to the way stock pickup works), thus doubling or inaccurately calculating actual RPMs?
Hmmm.... I'll ponder that a bit. The W/R has nothing connected, but the common B/W is jumpered to common ground........feeding back?
I'll look on the website for that discussion - thanks.
As to Console mode and Autotest - honestly I haven't read. I'm afraid my approach has been rather cavalier: wired it, entered some values and hit start with strobe in-hand.
 
Looks like you could run the app in console mode, which would display actual RPM and advance in realtime while engine is running. Maybe compare that with what your mini tach and timing light reads? One thought/concern that I read in one of the online comments on his website...would it be possible that the unit might be picking up two cycles per rev (maybe due to the way stock pickup works), thus doubling or inaccurately calculating actual RPMs?
So, I read the thread in question and Thierry (builder) refers to a value @ 29 regarding the doubled rpm. Then did the EEPROM dump and get a value of "26":shrug: Also enabled console mode, so tomorrow we can see what rpm it is seeing.
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Console mode shots 1 & 2 with corresponding values
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Still shows on timing light firing at drain groove. Parameters all seem correct to me. Perhaps clear all values and start over:umm::banghead:
 
Did you happen to compare with your timing light and mini-tach? Not to state something overtly obvious or basic, but it sure seems to be advancing too much at lower rpms, and not consistent with settings. Would that indicate either the base setting for pickup location is off or the unit is not accurately timing the advance based on your settings?
 
Looks like our messages crossed paths. Yeah, might be good to start over. I have Jim's rotors installed on both my XS's, so when my unit arrives we can compare notes.
 
When you rev above 3000 does it show the advance going above 35* in your settings ?
 
Looks like our messages crossed paths. Yeah, might be good to start over. I have Jim's rotors installed on both my XS's, so when my unit arrives we can compare notes.
I've got a good OEM rotor to try too. I've had rotor position at every 5* from 50-35 now, doesn't change timing mark @ idle. It does advance, just starts too advanced. Easier to reset values. If that doesn't do it, I'll switch rotors👍

I have not changed advance parameters today.
 
Still shows on timing light firing at drain groove. Parameters all seem correct to me.
Looks to me like you need to find some known values. As an example....

Input 40° as the sensor position.
Now input 0° as desired advance at idle.
If the sensor position is correct, your light will fire at 0°
Run the bike and see what the light actually does. Whatever degrees the light fires at will be the correction for the sensor position.

Once the (correct) sensor position is known, then start playing with advance.

That make sense?
Damn I wish I was there. :geek:
 
There is a similar instruction in the setup guide to help locate exact position of sensor.
 
So these are the advance parameters were "simplified" last night and run @ 45* p/u. Interestingly, my phone (now recharging) cuts off the screenshot. The 5 @ 500 is a factory preset. 13 @800, 35@3000, etc Today ran same curve @ 40* & 35*
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Looks to me like you need to find some known values. As an example....

Input 40° as the sensor position.
Now input 0° as desired advance at idle.
If the sensor position is correct, your light will fire at 0°
Run the bike and see what the light actually does. Whatever degrees the light fires at will be the correction for the sensor position.

Once the (correct) sensor position is known, then start playing with advance.

That make sense?
Damn I wish I was there. :geek:
That is about how far it appears to be off ~15*
 
From instructions you can enter bypass mode and use it to test pickup location (just use starter to spin the motor?):

Bypass

Default: Off

This funcon bypass the advance ming and trigger a spark AS SOON AS a pickup pulse has been detected.

This funcon comes handy when you want to know the pickup posion with a Timing Lamp : Remove the sparkplug out of the engine and connect it to the metal frame then rotate the engine with a drill machine.

With points and mechanical advance system, TCI in Bypass mode is acng as a simple Transistorized Ignion.

/!\ Don’t use the funcon on a running engine with pickups or hall sensors otherwise the spark will append way too soon and can harm the piston !!
 
For your entertainment from earlier today
 
For your entertainment from earlier today
Watched and listened to your vid a half a dozen times. Looks and sounds to me that the box does not like your pickup. I could hear the engine miss and see the timing change in concert. Somehow you need to get a rock solid steady timing at idle before you try to go farther.
 
Play-by-play: cleared values, reset all leaving defaults for many. Interestingly, left "advance timing" (3rd entry in set-up screen) default as has been. Went to "read" and no values were present at line 0 & 4 (attached). Would not start that way.

Now charging bike battery....

Replaced rotor while waiting on battery.🤞
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