Craft518
n00b
It's not the most detailed how to but I hope this helps someone out there...here we go. And before you look, feel free to blast me on my welding skills and stupidity, I know you trolls get off on that. Im a giver....
Before yesterday I had never welded anything and had very little fabrication experience so the welds are shoddy and the tabs are at best, not perfect. This is my first and more than likely last xs650 build because I will just keep adding to this one. I found very little information on attaching the rear master cylinder for disc brakes and I figured out a very easy way if you are having trouble. This is not the best how to but may be a good start for some ideas of your own if you have no idea what you want to do yet. So this is my take on master cylinder attachment.
If you have a welder and the cash to really try this, I think its the easiest and most effective way to attach the rear master cylinder. All pics that i took are below.
You will need a new master cylinder, i ordered mine from mikesxs and some sort of universal linkage. I found the best switch was a hydraulic one (also ordered for mikesxs) that is effectively your banjo bolt and will attach directly to the rear master and you will not need to weld any other tabs for a spring type switch (easier/cleaner).
I had to fabricate a tab with two holes through it and two cylindrical spacers to get it attached to the bike. You'll notice them in the photos and can tell where the spacers go more in the last photo. Measurement and placement of the tab and spacers is up to you for however long you want the linkage.
The first photo is the overall look and end result of what the linkage will look like attached. I think its fairly clean and will look fine once painted or rusted ratrod style depending on how lazy I am at the end.
The second photo is a close up of the master cylinder attached to the plate with the linkage shown pushing the armature straight backwards. This gives your brake a very easy push and is very smooth. In the photo brake lines and brake reservoir aren't attached yet but I did that after and it really feels good and works great. As for caliper placement it is really up to you to decide whether or not it's at the top, bottom or inside the swing arm. Remember to have a brake stay attached to the frame and the caliper needs to be solid for reduced brake chatter.
The third photo it a shot from the rear of the cylinder where you can see I have bolted it directly to the armature. You will need to use a cylindrical spacer inside for the linkage bolt to slide through and take up any gaps around it in the armature hole. I drilled a small hole through middle of the bolt and spacer to place a cotter key and give added "piece of mind" in the event locktite fails me and the nut loosens. The cotter key works without the bolt and was added as a failsafe. I suggest you use both options as a just in case.
The fourth shot is and undercarriage picture to give you a closer look at the linkage attachment to the armature and where the spacers were placed in relation to the frame for clearance reasons.
The last photo is an overall look at where I am at and dont worry those bars will be in the trash soon guys.
Good luck with whatever you're building and I really hope this helps.
Before yesterday I had never welded anything and had very little fabrication experience so the welds are shoddy and the tabs are at best, not perfect. This is my first and more than likely last xs650 build because I will just keep adding to this one. I found very little information on attaching the rear master cylinder for disc brakes and I figured out a very easy way if you are having trouble. This is not the best how to but may be a good start for some ideas of your own if you have no idea what you want to do yet. So this is my take on master cylinder attachment.
If you have a welder and the cash to really try this, I think its the easiest and most effective way to attach the rear master cylinder. All pics that i took are below.
You will need a new master cylinder, i ordered mine from mikesxs and some sort of universal linkage. I found the best switch was a hydraulic one (also ordered for mikesxs) that is effectively your banjo bolt and will attach directly to the rear master and you will not need to weld any other tabs for a spring type switch (easier/cleaner).
I had to fabricate a tab with two holes through it and two cylindrical spacers to get it attached to the bike. You'll notice them in the photos and can tell where the spacers go more in the last photo. Measurement and placement of the tab and spacers is up to you for however long you want the linkage.
The first photo is the overall look and end result of what the linkage will look like attached. I think its fairly clean and will look fine once painted or rusted ratrod style depending on how lazy I am at the end.
The second photo is a close up of the master cylinder attached to the plate with the linkage shown pushing the armature straight backwards. This gives your brake a very easy push and is very smooth. In the photo brake lines and brake reservoir aren't attached yet but I did that after and it really feels good and works great. As for caliper placement it is really up to you to decide whether or not it's at the top, bottom or inside the swing arm. Remember to have a brake stay attached to the frame and the caliper needs to be solid for reduced brake chatter.
The third photo it a shot from the rear of the cylinder where you can see I have bolted it directly to the armature. You will need to use a cylindrical spacer inside for the linkage bolt to slide through and take up any gaps around it in the armature hole. I drilled a small hole through middle of the bolt and spacer to place a cotter key and give added "piece of mind" in the event locktite fails me and the nut loosens. The cotter key works without the bolt and was added as a failsafe. I suggest you use both options as a just in case.
The fourth shot is and undercarriage picture to give you a closer look at the linkage attachment to the armature and where the spacers were placed in relation to the frame for clearance reasons.
The last photo is an overall look at where I am at and dont worry those bars will be in the trash soon guys.
Good luck with whatever you're building and I really hope this helps.
