Replacing a Cylinder Sleeve (How To)

Jim

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While researching for a friend on replacing cylinder sleeves, I ran across numerous mentions of just heating the cylinder and the sleeves will just fall out. Since I have a 20T press, I'd offered to press the sleeve out for my friend... but the idea of just using heat intrigued me. And.... having a spare set of jugs just layin' around.... well hell... lets give it a shot.

For this exercise, we're just removing one sleeve, so I used a couple washers and some safety wire to hold the other (left) one in place.... In retrospect, it's probably a good idea to washer and safety all the stud holes.

Sleeve 1.jpg


I set a few pieces of aluminum in the oven and set the jugs on that, positioned so that the sleeve would just fall out when it got loose enough. It didn't fall out (as it has for others) so if I had a do-over, I'd just set it on the oven rack.

Sleeve2.jpg


Set the oven at 250F. and let it heat for 15min. Removed the jugs and set them in the sink. A gentle push was all that was required and the sleeve popped free. Grabbed the other side of it and a few gentle twists.... and out it came....

sleeve3.jpg

Sleeve4.jpg


All things considered... it probably would have been quicker and easier just to use the 20T press, but this how-to is for someone who doesn't have access to a press but does have an understanding wife:whistle:

Just for s&g's, I went ahead and did some measuring while it's apart.

sleeve5.jpg

sleeve6.jpg


As you can see, there's slightly over 2 thousands interference at room temperature. OK, time to put it back together..... I made a box to set the heated cylinder assy. on.

sleeve7.jpg


The inside dimensions of the box are 3.5" X 8.5". The sleeve is cleaned and oiled, ready to go back in. Also sitting there at the ready is a hammer and block of wood for "persuasion" if necessary (it wasn't).
I set the cylinder back in the oven at 300deg. for 30 min. The reason I went 300 was because at 250 the sleeve was still a slight interference fit, so I wanted to find out how a higher temp. would work. After 30 min. I set the cylinder on the box, set the sleeve over it... and it just fell in with a resounding "thunk!"

sleeve8.jpg


So, in retrospect, 300 should be the target temp. for removal and reassembly.
Conclusion: This task is easily doable by anyone with an oven and an understanding wife.... or one that's out of the house...;)
Why do this? Easy, there's tons of old cylinders out there where one cylinder is almost pristine and the other is ruined because it sat for years with the valve(s) open. Two sets of those cylinders can be easily turned into one good set without the hundreds of dollars it would take for machine shop fees and oversize pistons and rings.
EDIT: As the cylinder assy cooled (but still hot to the touch), I noticed the sleeve was sitting a little proud of the cylinder. A few sharp raps with the wood block and hammer and it set down flush.
 
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Mailman

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Thank you Jim! This an absolutely terrific how to. I really appreciate you taking the time to do this. I know you have a big ol press, I have also watched videos on YouTube where people make home made pullers and crank them out. But this is simplicity itself.

If I may add one thing. When I was researching this as part of my homework assignment from 2M, he put up a technical bulletin from Yamaha stating to place a heavy object on top of the newly inserted sleeves to keep it from creeping up out of the cylinder when it cools.

Thanks again for a well written and photographed tutorial. The tech section needs a new addition!
 

xjwmx

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Great writeup. One thing, I noticed sleeves are pretty expensive (from Mike's). On ebay, whole used cylinders with two sleeves are about half the price, best as I remember.
 

Jim

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Great writeup. One thing, I noticed sleeves are pretty expensive (from Mike's). On ebay, whole used cylinders with two sleeves are about half the price, best as I remember.
Thanks. Yeah, finding a used set with one bad and one good sleeve is probably the cheapest way to go....
 
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gggGary

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So, in retrospect, 300 should be the target temp. for removal and reassembly.
some of the difference came from the sleeve being at room temp ( ie not expanded by heat) for the second insertion. Aluminum expands more than steel with a temperature increase but they both expand.
 
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Jim

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Yeah.... good point Gary. Someone over on Bobs thread said you've done this. You do anything different?
 

gggGary

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nah I took one apart with an oven (I think LOL) when making my light weight mock up motor shell, but never put one together. It already had one broken sleeve. (Wonder why the sleeve cracked?) IIRC I put it in, turned the oven to 400 and waited til I heard the sleeves drop out, then popped in a pizza.
xsruinedjug 002.jpg
 
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59Tebo

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Great write-up, Jim! I never thought of one good/one bad cylinder. I wasn't planning on opening the top end of 'The Basketcase' (my '75) for a rebuild, because I got it with only 9,300 miles on it, but since it sat (holding up a shed) for so long, yeah, I'll bet one side's gonna be roached. I'm just starting to tear it apart (thread to follow), but a compression test should shed some light on its "health". I got a spare motor in a deal for one of my other bikes, and thought about stripping it for a mock-motor, but removing the sleeves never crossed my mind. Genius! Not only would it lose some weight, I'd have that "good" cylinder sleeve for one of the other bikes (if necessary).
 

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Just did this if you put your jugs in the oven on the try the right way up 250f 10 minute you hear a CLONK ! then thats the ally finnd outer dropping down onto the oven try.
So this method come free with an alarm lol
 

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