Ruined my cylinder studs. Help?

[halliday77]

Hi guys,

Totally pulled apart the engine on my '81 with ONLY ONE STUCK BOLT! A bit of blowtorching sorted that out. But just when I thought i was totally winning, I tried removing the cylinder studs.

My first few tries were unsuccessful, so decided to resort to the blowtorch and a plumbing wrench. This served only to tear a few shreds of metal off a couple of the studs before i gave up trying.

I've since learned of the double-nut method (which i should have looked up sooner) but i won't be able to try it until i get back to the shop on the weekend.

My questions are: if i do eventually get the studs out, can i grind down the tooth marks on the shaft caused by the wrench? They're not too deep and i don't imagine a light grind will affect them structurally, but i don't know.

If i can't grind them, anyone know where i can get some replacements?

Finally, if the nuts DON'T work... what the hell should i do?! I don't NEED them out, really. It just means i gotta send the case off for soda blasting with some big-ass studs coming from the top.

As always, your advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Cheers.

 

[xjwmx]

My questions are: if i do eventually get the studs out, can i grind down the tooth marks on the shaft caused by the wrench? They're not too deep and i don't imagine a light grind will affect them structurally, but i don't know.

Why do you want the studs out?
Just ignore the marks on them.

 

[angus67]

were are the marks? it should be fine. just leave them alone. you don't need them out. you've gone a lot farther in prep work then somepeople.

 

[gggGary]

IMHO double nuts won't do it either those babies are REALLY in there. Yes heat helps but a 1/2" drive stud extractor with some long 1/2" drive extensions powered by a rattle wrench is the only decent way I know of to get them out. The extractor leaves marks too. (no big deal) I have pulled two sets of studs, second was easier than the first, but not MUCH easier. File the marks down a bit, call it done, don't remove them.
I used this one;

But if I bought another I think would get this type;

The stud is supported top and bottom which "should" stop the angled twisting the above type is prone to.

 

[gggGary]

Ps the extractor needs to be as low on the stud as you can get, just above the bottom threads. That why long extensions are needed.

 

[Brian902]

A little heat with a propane torch will help to release the thread lock they use.

Actually lots of heat with propane, but don't use the blow torch you mentioned.

Don't want molten aluminum.

 

[halliday77]

As usual, you guys are legends. And Gary, you're the man.

Appreciate all the advice, but you had me at 'why bother'!

Thanks guys. I'll be filing down the marks and leaving them alone.

 

[gggGary]

A few pics of a set I just removed, about the 3rd XS motor I've done. I got and used a "better" extractor this time.



I used a propane torch to heat the studs before removal but even then 2 were hard to get out,



One was a serious battle!

 

[angus67]

ah, AH!! even a mod can resurrect a thread! that motor is prolly running merrily down the street

 

[gggGary]

Oh yeah! Better to add to an existing thread that has relevant/related info than have 6 "partial info" threads all over the place. JIMHO

 

[angus67]

snarky sob!!!1lolol
good point though.