well she is running and riding pretty well. i see what everybody talks about now with the vibrations. still need to properly sync the carbs. bought cheap vacuum gage on amazon and they did not work too well. is there a better product that i can use to do this? I know there is the dead cylinder trick but not sure how to execute this. getting a lil oil coming from my bottom gasket on my top end the others seem to be good though. Is there need for concern or can this wait till next time i pull the motor??? when riding seems smooth there is a bit of a whering noise is this just the sound of the motor? never rode a xs up till this point. charging system does work so that is a plus. going to drop oil soon to see if there is any thing there to be concerned with. any thoughts comments concerns???
 
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Morgan Carbtune

I have the four cylinder version and I love it! It's easy to use, accurate, and no messy fluid. I use it often.
 
what is the 1mm of movement on the rod look like and i believe that i am going to be changing to a e type tensioner due to the fact that the d type sucks

Engine cold, plugs out, crank with the starter; the rod end should be moving in and out about the thickness of a dime. No movement is too tight, much more than that and you'll hear some chain slap 'specially when the motor just starts.
Clean the threads in the cap "real good" carb cleaner, rag compressed air, then a touch of oil. If the cap threads on the rod freely it won't upset the cam chain setting.
 
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So tightened my bolts to 30 lbs. The bike needs to be cold to do this? If so I did it wrong second it's still leaking oil. And once I set cam chain tensioner I need to re set timing?
 
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So tightened my bolts to 30 lbs. The bike needs to be cold to do this? If so I did it wrong second it's still leaking oil. And once I set cam chain tensioner I need to re set timing?
Did you do it as instructed, one at a time back each nut off till it cracks loose, then tighten?
ride it, let it cool, 2 or three times. clean any oil off, check for leaks again. How loose were the bolts? check tension again? doesn't have to be stone cold but you don't do it hot.
prolly don't need to change timing but it sure won't hurt anything to check.
 
Sure it's the head gasket? If it's been loose leaking for a while sometimes the gasket's blown. Retorque, worth a try doesn't work every time.
 
so I got thre bolts torqued down to 32 lb on the big bolts and the others to spec. I am still getting a lil drip nothing crazy but still there. now i can go tighter correct? and would using a thicker motor oil be a option as well? I am using 10W/40 i believe now. what would be another option?
 
I wouldn't go any tighter than 32 and in fact, I don't even go that tight anymore. I stay in the 28-30 range. Going tighter won't fix the leaking and you run the risk of stretching the studs.
 
i think that they may already have been stretched. this winter they are comming out and getting replaced. what any one have any good tricks on flattening the surface of the bottom case. and they are at 35 and it is not leaking so idk.
 
So today got on the bike rode out on the highway got into 3/4 gear and when I came to light and down shifted it list bower and died. The bike continued to do this all day. Took my carbs off and cleaned them. Still doing it. There was sediment in the carbs. Probably came from the tank I cleaned. Does this sound like I need to clean the carbs better?
 
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