Stator compatibility?

bennecc

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Well after going through the Curly's charging guide I've decided that my stator is shot. I I have an '81 with Pamco; the rotor and reg/rect are stock.

Can anyone tell me if I can use one of the earlier model stators? I'm not sure what the difference would be? Maybe something with the timing marks?
 
bennecc,

It is very rare for the stator to fail. Usually, a misdiagnosis leads one to think it is defective.

One of the most common misdiagnosis is to check for infinity between the white wires and ground and read some value other than infinity. That is because the common center of the three windings are connected together to the yellow wire, which then goes to the safety relay and to ground through the relay coil, so you are actually reading the resistance of the safety relay coil. The answer is to disconnect the yellow wire when doing the resistance reading from each white wire to ground. The yellow wire is separate from the connector that has the three white wires in it, but people assume that if they have unplugged the stator, that it is in fact disconnected, but the yellow wire remains connected.

The other common mistake when measuring the resistance from one white wire to the others is to get a reading greater than 1 Ohm when you are expecting less than 1 Ohm. This is caused by the fact that when trying to measure a very low resistance, you must take into consideration the resistance of the meter test leads themselves and subtract this resistance from your reading. Do this by shorting the test leads together and note the reading, which is typically 0.3 Ohms, so if you read 1.2 Ohms across the white wires, subtract 0.3 to get the real resistance of 0.9 Ohms.

To make matters worse, some meters, especially the less expensive ones, have cheap brass or copper contacts in their range selection switch which can introduce even higher resistance, like 1 or 2 Ohms, into the reading, so it's a good idea to turn the selector switch back and forth a few times to ensure good contact in the switch, then measure the test lead resistance and subtract that from your reading.

The other common mistake is to use too high a range on the Ohm meter. Use the lowest range, which is typically 200 Ohms. If your meter does not have a 200 Ohm or lower range, then get another meter.

Reading such low resistance is always problematic, so what you are really looking for is that all three readings are the same.

Also, some manuals will say that you should read 0.45 Ohms between the white wires. 0.45 Ohms is the resistance for each of the three stator windings. When you measure from one white wire to another, you are actually measuring two of the three windings in series, so the correct resistance will be 0.45 + 0.45 = 0.9 Ohms. If you want to measure the resistance of each winding, then measure between the white wire and the yellow wire, because the yellow wire is common to the other end of each of the white wires.
 
Thanks for the reply Pete.

Well, following Curly's guide I only get 4-5 AC volts on each white wire in step 6. When I measure the resistance b/w 2 white wires in step 7 the meter jumps around and doesn't want to give me a steady reading. If I hold the leads on for 5-10 seconds it will usually give me a reading of about .7 ohms. The measurement between the two test leads is .4 ohms. I threw out the safety relay and capped off the yellow wire; when I measure between the white wires and ground again the meter jumps around but it does not give infinity.

I would love it if I am wrong about this, but it doesn't seem to be a regulator problem, the rotor tests to spec, and the brushes are new. I don't see anywhere that the stator wires could be grounding out to the frame, but I guess its possible.

I think I'll get a stator off of ebay and see if that helps. If it doesn't I can always sell it again. There are several working stators from 70-79 models that are pretty inexpensive; would those be easily adaptable to my '81?
 
bennecc,

Well, maybe you should get a new meter first. There is no reason for a meter to "jump around" when attempting to measure resistance in a static situation.
 
The 80 up bikes use the TCI ignition. This ignition uses a magnet in the rotor and a set of pickups on the stator.
The 79 and older used points. The rotor won't have the magnet and the stator won't have a place to mount the pickups.
If you get a stator make sure it fits the 80 and up bikes.
As far as meters go I have a couple, I like the one Harbor Freight sells. $7.99 regular, often on sale for $3.99, with a coupon $1.99. It works better than the Sunpro I got from the parts store for $35.
 
XSLeo,

I believe bennecc has a PAMCO. The issue with an earlier stator will be the brush holder. He will have to use nylon screws.
 
If the meter doesn't jump around when you touch the two leads together it isn't jumping on the unit under test because it's a bad meter. Try burnishing the contacts you're probing. Try clipping the test leads on. If it still jumps it might be a bad crimp connection on the unit under test :)

DVMs update the display at different rates. A slow updating rate can give a false impression of steadiness.
 
I have a bucketful of these things, let me know if you need any. I'm thinking of putting them all on Ebay at $1.99 starting bid...

I ditch the stock stuff and go to the Banshee Swap instead, its way more reliable and cheaper to install than fixing the stock mess... I have a full swap thread on the Chop Cult if needed for reference. http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6604
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. I have 2 meters and both have acted similarly. Maybe its a bad contact, I could cut the wire and try again. But, as I said, when it does steady out the reading is way low, as in .1-.2 ohms between 2 white wires after subtracting the resistance of the leads. Plus, the AC voltage is low. I'm not surprised it doesn't work; the bike had been neglected for years then not so carefully ripped apart by the guy I bought it from. Plus, I'm new at this as well.

Punkskalar when I saw this thing wasn't charging my first thought was to do the PMA swap. I had read a thread about it some time ago on xs-650 garage where the guy had gotten all his parts for under $100. Last night when I checked ebay the banshee flywheels and stators were $75-$100 each, plus the regulator, plus the bracket, plus your bracket......it adds up. Wonder why those parts have gone up so much in the past 3 years?

Anyways, so the older model stator will work as long as I use the nylon screws. I imagine I could also switch the brush holder from my newer bad rotor onto the old one?
 
Yes, It does say he has the Pamco. I missed that.
So without needing the pickups he can use any year and do the nylon screws on the older style.
I might use the later style. I have one on my 75 now, With the Chrysler reg/ Radio Shack rec. This way I can use any rotor, or the stock reg/rec's from the later bikes. I have two of those.
 
Ha, yea, I'd just as soon use the later ones as well. But at the moment at least they cost about twice as much on ebay. So, I'll get an old one.
 
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