Steering head or fork lock - 73 TX

mouser
Yup, looks like it's toast! I think I might need the "sleeve" portion of the mechanism - the thin piece surrounding the lock cylinder - sandwiched between the cylinder and cast iron of the steering head. From your photo it appears it became a victim of the grinder. No problem and thank you for the offer! I'll measure the piece from my mechanism and spin up another if necessary - unless one magically comes my way?............Wesley
 
I have been thinking about this and if I remember right I had mine out once. You can get the cover off by carefully prying up on it very close to the rivet. The rivet comes out, and is slightly tapered and splined. When I put it back in I just tapped the rivet back in place and it worked fine.
Only thing is now it won't work. The, I think 79, trees I put on to use 35 mm forks doesn't have the slot cut in the stem for the fork lock.
Leo
 
XSLeo
You describe what I intend to do when I get back to the project. I hope to carefully pry the rivet loose so it can be reinserted once the lock mechanism is repaired/assembled. According to the photo supplied by mouser, the rivet is indeed splined. I suspected it would be tapered too and you have confirmed that. The ones used in the engine rebuilding business are rifle splined (with a slight twist to the splines) and tapered so they'll stay put once driven in place. Lots quicker and cheaper than threading holes for screw fasteners, I suspect. Now all that's left to do is assess the damage to the internals, either find replacement pieces or make new ones. All of this for a feature I may never use! Go figure. Sounds like you're not using yours either! Maybe we're both nuts? ......Wesley
 
What do you mean "maybe" we're both nuts? Of course we are. We get old bikes, spend more than a new one costs, and love it.
Leo
 
I just went through this on my XS-1, here are some photos that will make some sense of the thread before here. I had a locksmith cut a new key, then turn to ten o-clock and the whole assembly comes out of the neck. Also, don't do what I did and use a lot of force on the rivet, it will try to find the closest eyeball to smack as it heads for orbit on breakage.
 

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This is good stuff. I have the original ignition and key from my '72 but could never get the fork lock to work. probably because the PO never used it. This inspires me to give it a whirl and see if I can get mine to work.
 
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