I am not completely convinced about that theory. Spring steel should not "creep" when the torsonial stress is at "parked on sidestand" levels. The stress is a lot higher when braking hard, hitting severe bumps or when heavily loaded. Under those circumstances, the stress could approach the yield stress of the spring steel.Just a little note on all these sacked out fork springs we seem to encounter and my theory as to the cause. I'm a big fan of centerstands and use them whenever my bikes are parked for more than just a short time. But, many people don't use them. They'll store the bike all winter or maybe even for years parked on the sidestand. This puts more weight on the forks and compresses them more, and I think this is a big contributor to the sacked spring problem.
I dont disagree on the low torque, but if it spins, it spins.From what I recall, the amount of torque on the tool is rather low. Really, all it does is hold the upper end of the rod while you loosen or tighten the socket head cap screw (SHCS) securing the lower end. The head of that SHCS is up in the semi-circular pocket above the front axle.
in fact, I don’t think I even used the tool in removing the rod - I just applied an electric impact ratchet (buzz gun) to the SHCS and out she came.
The tool IS needed for re-installing the damper rod as you need to carefully torque the SHCS back into position and without the holding tool, the rod would just spin.
Pete
Have you read this? Scroll down to comment 5 for pics of the tool you need to make.I dont disagree on the low torque, but if it spins, it spins.
I have taken an impact gun with short bursts, but mine doesnt break free.
I will make a tool wih a similiar head as Pete which can be attached to a piece of long threaded rod, to reach the part.
Yeah... guess I should have backed up a page. I just figured the 7D in Norton7D meant he had a 77D. My bad.That post #5 pertains to the '77 damper rods only. They differ from both the later and earlier ones. They are similar to the early ones with flats on the sides at the top, but wider. A tool for the '77 rod isn't going to fit an earlier rod, the slot will be too wide.
Jim, I cant blame your logic, 7dnorton is because I also own a 70 Commando, and that email / user name is always taken.Yeah... guess I should have backed up a page. I just figured the 7D in Norton7D meant he had a 77D. My bad.
If you get the washer and clip to seat, the seal is seated. I use a little oil to lube the seal, but it's still gonna require some grunts to seat it.do they need to get pushed down to the ridge? Or just far enough to get the washer and clip back in?