timing issue.... fml

[sweatybetty89]

so i have a 77 xs D and it was going well until one day noticed that the shifter was not returning to center. well i go to inspect the problem removing the side cover and unfortunately pulling out the kick shaft as well. so after getting it replaced and seeing nothing wrong notice that the shifter is not as tight as it should be on the shaft causing it to rotate on it. tighten that bolt all is well.

before all of this i had tried kicking my bike over and was getting really bad kick back. It started little by little. mind you I had recently had problem with the timing and had one or the other cylinder getting too hot so.. checked my cam chain adjustment, gapped valve by spec for year of bike and model, checked points gaps, did static timing adjustment.... BOOM all was well for the time being till bike sat for a bit and started to kick back about almost every other kick. get on the forum to see what may be the problem see a lot of talk about timing. So, off with cam chain nut then to the points cover. While trying to get the points set they will not even get close to the mark. I run out of room to adjust them trying to move the top one with the big plate now they will not get any where near the fire mark. Before i had them set dead on and I really thought this was going to be the maiden voyage of ol beatty to see where she stood on the road for a few minuets ( by no mean entirely ready just a test ride) and it feels like i took 10 steps back. i have been very discouraged by this and have not worked on the bike in a couple weeks really need some help guys really need a win to push forward. i wanna see this ol girl on the road again. I know i can do it with a lil help

 

[Jan_P]

To sum it up
bike adjusted and ran well parked an now kickback after standstill

I would as first assumption think of a weak battery .. perhaps capacitor ,, ( guessing there )
Charge the battery and try again or try another battery
If it runs a video would help
Check the point setting again the static one perhaps best.
Report back do you have a strobe light ?
Do you have a voltmeter ? measure from point upside to cylinder head
also check coil and ground connections clean up and put some contact grease
If it starts measure charging voltage across battery

 

[sweatybetty89]

I do not have a strobe and not sure if its in the condition to start. Im trying to do static test and the test light is coming on way early, like i cant even see the mark when the test light is coming on. The weak battery could very well been a problem. Why would that effect where my timing marks meet up or when im getting current through my points???

 

[Jan_P]

I do not have a strobe and not sure if its in the condition to start. Im trying to do static test and the test light is coming on way early, like i cant even see the mark when the test light is coming on. The weak battery could very well been a problem. Why would that effect where my timing marks meet up or when im getting current through my points???

Cant answer that I do know that a weak battery affects how ignitions work
So one way to proceed is to ensure that components are up to spec so to speak
Exactly what causes the problem Who knows.
There is a buildup of magnetic field in the coils that gets weaker with weak battery.
Its Eeeee lectrical . Take a wrist watch that is not keeping time
Who knows why ..change the battery cell 9 times of ten the watch works again.
The battery can be taken to a shop or service station they can test it under load to check if it is bad.

Batteries do lose power if old and standstill not petrol ( as much ) nor air going in
So if it ran getting in the battery check is the first
Finding the fault is not so easy most times that one can go in and fix it
So having the power supply right is a first .. It can be lots of other things but power must be first.
Pictures ? the cam loose for the points .. ?

se # 141 there

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs2-scrambler-build.59914/page-8#post-701661

 

[Jim]

Im trying to do static test and the test light is coming on way early, like i cant even see the mark when the test light is coming on.

Check the points gap. Sounds like its way too big.

 

[mike in idaho]

Pull the chrome cover of the right side of the head and check out the spark advancer. If it's sticking in the advanced position that could be causing your issues.

 

[Jim]

Here's a method I'll sometimes use to set points and timing that doesn't use a dwell meter or feeler gauge.
1. Set both points timing plates to the mid point of their adjustment and lock 'em there.
2. turn the engine to the compression stroke on the right cylinder. Keep turning until you just pass the fire mark by a degree or two.
3. Close then open the points gap (multiple times if necessary) until the test lamp just comes on. Lock the points there.
4. Back the engine up 30-40° and then rotate forward to the fire mark.
5. Loosen the right timing plate and adjust until the light just comes on. Lock the timing plate.
6. Repeat steps 2 thru 5 for the left cylinder.
Now start the engine and use a timing light to verify correct timing at idle and full advance. This is the easiest method I know of. You don't set the points gap, just the timing. Done properly you'll find that the points gap will naturally fall within a few thousands of being correct.

Also.... it's possible your advance is stuck at full advance. Pull the right cover and verify the advance is working correctly before setting timing.